Activity Feed
Route Description: Кулуару с запада
Description of the 1B category route to the summit Kupol via the Western wall couloir in the Aktru gorge on Altai.
PASSPORT
- Rock climbing category
- Altai, Severo-Chuisky ridge, Aktru valley.
- V. Kupol via the Western wall couloir.
- Proposed category 1B (the route has been climbed multiple times, but has apparently never been submitted for classification).
- Elevation gain 1420 m, distance 4200 m.
- No pitons used.
- Climbing time: 8 hours from base camp to base camp.
- No overnight stay required.
- Sokolov V.P., 1st sports category, 3rd category and novice group.
Route Description: 3 склону
Description of the first ascent of category 4 complexity on Chuysky Peak (3777 m) in the South-Chuya ridge on Altai.
PASSPORT
- Category of first ascents.
- Altai, South Chuya Ridge, Sofiyskiy Glacier area.
- Pik Chuyskiy 3rd slope.
- Proposed 4B category of difficulty for the first ascent.
- Height 3777 m. Elevation gain 460 m. Length 680 m.
- Pitons: 29 ice screws for belay.
- Climbing hours: 14.
- Overnight stays: not necessary.
- Leader: Andrey V. Drakin, Candidate Master of Sports.
Route Description: З стене
**Description of the route via the West Wall, Category III complexity**, including details on passage, belaying, and required equipment.
2. via N.-W. ridge, 2A category
3. via left edge, 3A category
4. via right S.-W. ridge, 2B category
5. via W. wall, 3B category
6. via right W. ridge, 3B category
Via Western wall, 3B category of difficulty
From the base camp, move along the right bank of the right tributary of Ulu'n river. After 20–25 minutes of movement, start climbing up a snowy couloir to the right of the western counterfort. Move along the right side of the couloir. Approach the heavily snow-covered "ram foreheads" at the beginning of the route. Then proceed in a rope team. Bypass the "ram foreheads" from the left along the ledge and ascend simple rocks to a snowy isthmus. Here is a control cairn on the wall in a tin can. The ascent time to the snowy isthmus from the base camp is 1 hour. From the control cairn, to the left of a large chimney with ice, begins an 80-meter key section of the wall:
- First, make a difficult 8-meter traverse to the left with a slight gain in height.
Route Description: левому ребру В гребня
Description of the route along the left edge of the East ridge of Mount Tsoya, category 2B complexity, with details of the passage and equipment recommendations.
- Left edge of the E ridge, 2B
- Right edge of the E ridge, 4A
Left edge of the East ridge, 2B cat. difficulty
From the base camp, having ascended to the terrace of the left bank of the Ulun river, move downstream. Round the entire North-Eastern ridge of peak Khabarovskikh Alpinistok and reach the far end of the Coya cirque to the start of the route. The approach takes 40 minutes on skis. At the beginning of the route be attentive — there are dangerous couloirs on the left and right. Climb 150 m to the beginning of the edge. The beginning of the ascent passes along gently sloping, heavily snow-covered rocks about 100 m to the base of the first large "gendarme". It is passed on the right along rather technically complex internal corners and slabs (key section 95 m). Then 100 m at the same time to the base of the second large "gendarme". Pass it:
- on the right along the slabs,
- or straight up along the crevice 40 m (second key section).
Route Description: В гребню
Report on the first ascent of the Peak 70th anniversary of Magadan Region via the Eastern ridge, category 1B climbing route.
Report
ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF PIK 70-LETIIA MAGADANSKOI OBLASTI VIA THE EASTERN RIDGE, CATEGORY 1B, BY THE TEAM OF THE ALPINISM LAGERS ADMINISTRATION FOR THE PERIOD FROM AUGUST 29, 2023 TO AUGUST 29, 2023.
I. Ascent Report
| № | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the team leader | Kergin I.V., 1st sports rank |
| 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of the participants | Kergin I.V., 1st sports rank; Kichin A.B., 1st sports rank; Bobrinskiy K.I., 2nd sports rank; Pervushkin E.P., no rank; Berezhnoy M.I., no rank; Cherney A.I., no rank |
| 1.3 | Full name of the coach | Yakovenko A.N., Master of Sports |
| 1.4 | Organization | Administration of Alpine Camps, Federation of Mountaineering and Rock Climbing of Magadan Region |
| 2. Characteristics of the Ascent Object |
Route Description: ЮВ склону
Description of a 1B category route to the summit of Pik Komsomola (1729 m) in the Subpolar Urals, going through talus slopes and rocks on the south-eastern slope.
Ascent Passport
- Region — Subpolar Urals
- Ridge — Research Ridge
- Gorge — Mountain horseshoe of Olenevodov Plateau
- Section number according to KMGV-2001 — 8. "Other mountain systems, massifs"
- Name of the peak — 1729 (p. Komsomola Main)
- Height: 1729
- Route name — via the south-eastern slope
- Category of difficulty — 1B category of difficulty
- Route character — Combined
Route Description: В гребню
Report on the first ascent of Category 1B route via the eastern ridge of peak 1152 (Pernayz) in the Subpolar Urals.
Region — Subpolar Urals. Ridge — Narod-Ityinsky Ridge (kряж). Gorge — Valley of the Bolshaya Lemva River. Mountain massif — Parnokaiz. Section number according to KMGV-2001 — No. 8. "Other mountain systems, massifs". Name of the summit — 1152 (Pernayiz). Height — 1152 m. Route name — via the eastern ridge. First ascent. Proposed complexity category for inclusion in the KMGV of the Climbing Federation of Russia — 1B category (rocky).
Route Description: СВ кф. В гребня
Description of the first ascent to the top of Sablya Severny (1350 m) via the north-eastern counterfort along route category 4B.
6104812
ASCENT REPORT
- Route — 1NW rock route. Peak height 1350 (Sablya Severnaia)
- Region: Subpolar Urals
- Category of difficulty: proposed 4A cat. diff.
- Route length, height difference: 800 m, 600 m
- Pitons placement — 0, Chocks — 50
- Movement hours: 12 h
- Leader: Poliakov Sergei Nikolaevich, 1st sports category. Participants: Khireev Gerasim Mikhailovich, 1st sports category; Aiugov Sergei Nikolaevich, 1st sports category.
Route Description: Перья
A description of the "Feathers" route to the summit of Ai-Petri, with a complexity category of 4B-5A, featuring a detailed breakdown of the five pitches and recommendations for climbers.
"Feathers" — a non-technical description of the route to the top of Ai-Petri
Tourist Encyclopedia
Feathers (Ai-Petri)
The entire Ai-Petri massif is clearly visible from the highway if you stop a little before the point where the cable car cables pass over the road (when driving from Simeiz). It's even more convenient to drive to the middle station of the cable car, which is located above the highway. The cable car itself goes over the right part of the massif. In the left part of the wall:
- a huge cornice;
- a depression about a hundred meters high, which we conditionally called the "TV". The two parts of the wall are separated by a counterfort, which is a series of rock feathers stacked on top of each other. The height of each of them is 30–40 m. The route passes through them. From the middle station of the cable car, walk up the road, and after about 300 m, turn left onto the road leading to the barrier. From the barrier, go through the forest, veering left, towards the left part of the massif — approach the rocky ridge blocking the path to the wall. Bypass the ridge from the left. After it — up and to the right. All approaches to the wall are within range of stones falling from the couloir located above the wall. Pass under the wall as quickly as possible. Get dressed and rope up directly under the route.
Route Description: По ЮВ гребню
Ascent to the eastern summit of Ai-Petri along the south-eastern ridge, difficulty category 3B, length 580 m, takes 6 hours.
Ai-Petri (eastern peak) via south-eastern ridge, category 3B
The approaches to the route start from the Yalta-Sevastopol highway at the turnoff to Miskhor. The route begins along the ridge that goes left from the center of the eastern wall (moderate rocks, 40 m). The landmark is an inclined terrace located to the right of the ridge. From the ridge, transition to a series of vertical cliffs with a weakly expressed counterfort, the length of this section is 20 m. Then:
- traverse left,
- ascend 30 m along moderate rocks,
- follow an inclined ledge to a vertical chimney. The chimney leads to a ledge, from which difficult climbing up an inclined ledge leads to a rocky ridge where a yew tree grows. Continue towards a pine tree (difficult rocks, 15–20 m). From the pine tree, move upwards and to the right along the rocky ridge. The path along the ridge is easy. The length of this section is 80 m. Then, very difficult climbing up overhanging rocks leads to the pre-summit tower. The length of this section is 20 m. On the plateau, ascend along the ledges and join the trail leading to Miskhor. The route length is 580 m: