2. via N.-W. ridge, 2A category
3. via left edge, 3A category
4. via right S.-W. ridge, 2B category
5. via W. wall, 3B category
6. via right W. ridge, 3B category

Via Western wall, 3B category of difficulty

From the base camp, move along the right bank of the right tributary of Ulu'n river. After 20–25 minutes of movement, start climbing up a snowy couloir to the right of the western counterfort. Move along the right side of the couloir. Approach the heavily snow-covered "ram foreheads" at the beginning of the route. Then proceed in a rope team. Bypass the "ram foreheads" from the left along the ledge and ascend simple rocks to a snowy isthmus. Here is a control cairn on the wall in a tin can. The ascent time to the snowy isthmus from the base camp is 1 hour.

From the control cairn, to the left of a large chimney with ice, begins an 80-meter key section of the wall:

• First, make a difficult 8-meter traverse to the left with a slight gain in height.
• Then, orienting from right to left, ascend a series of walls with a steepness of 70°, ending with a 6-meter cornice.
• Traverse the cornice along an inner corner, using artificial points of support (3 ladders).
• Above the cornice, there is a good place to organize belays and ropes — under a yellow cornice.

Further:

• Traverse 40 meters across icy slabs and a narrow chimney (with snow and ice in the chimney) with a steepness of 70–85°. Climbing is difficult; ropes are organized.
• Having passed the key section, move alternately for about 60 meters: first 25 meters from left to right across snowy, gently sloping slabs, and then along the ridge to a forked "gendarme".
• Bypass the "gendarme" on the right.
• From the "gendarme", first along rock outcrops on the right, and then along the ridge for 80 meters with simultaneous belays to reach the summit.

The total ascent time is 6 hours.

Descent:

• Descend from the summit along the Southern ridge, via the 1B category of difficulty route.
• The descent takes 1 hour.

Route safety assessment

The route is logical. The greatest danger is posed by the first climber in a rope team on difficult rocks in the key section. The couloir at the beginning of the route poses an avalanche risk.

Recommendations for subsequent groups on equipment usage and route passage specifics

For a group of 6 people, it is necessary to have:

• 15–20 rock pitons
• 12 chocks
• quickdraws
• hammers
• 2 ladders

Each participant should have crampons and an ice axe. The first climber should preferably have galoshes and possess sufficient technique to pass difficult sections of IV–V category of difficulty.

Characteristic signs of the route start

The wall is clearly visible, with a large icy couloir in the right part, and is well seen from everywhere.