see the next stage of the icefall in description 18. There's a bivouac on the moraine. From "Bezengi" Alpine camp it's 3–4 hours. From the bivouac (in rope teams? and with crampons!) along the glacier towards the left wall of the North-Eastern counterfort of the Krummkol summit:

• Uphill on a not too steep snowy slope to the bergschrund
• Behind it - up a steep 500-meter ice-snow slope, ascending left of rocks resembling "sheep's foreheads" of the first rocky ascent to the first steep slanting ice-snow slope
• Up the slope 70–80 m straight up to the second rocky ascent
• Under the ascent wall - on ice with several exits to simple rocks 150–170 m up-right (piton belay!) to the ice-rock couloir and up it to the rocky shelves
• From the shelves 80–100 m up rocks of medium difficulty with ice sections (piton belay!) ascent to the second rocky ascent
• From the ascent - up the second steep ice slope to under the wall of the third rocky ascent
• Under the wall - up-right on the ice slope, after 160–180 m exit to a rocky shelf, and up-left on rocks of medium difficulty to a platform

ASCENT DOCUMENT

ASCENT MADE IN THE 1971 USSR ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIP

1. Ascent category — technical.
2. Ascent area — Central Caucasus, Bezengi alpine camp.
3. Ascent route — peak KRUMKOL, 4550 m via North wall
4. Ascent description: traverse, 1678 height difference 1550 m (1184 zep) average slope 50°, (470–1000 р.) length of difficult sections 1000 m.
5. Number of pitons used: rock — 100, ice — 50, bolted — 0.
6. Number of climbing hours — 40.
7. Number of bivouacs: 4, lying down.
8. Team name — Bezengi alpine camp team.

Krumkol via the center of the right bastion of the North wall (Tsey team route). BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE ROUTE A 500 m snow-ice ascent (40°) leads to the beginning of the bastion. Along the way, there are two ice sections to overcome (50–100 m). Exit to a rocky island. From the island, a steep (45°) ice slope leads to the beginning of the bastion. Exit onto fragile, heavily degraded rocks. 10 m up and left along the rocks to an overhanging section (change of lead). Traverse left (difficult climbing; icy rocks make it hard to set up belays) and, crossing an internal corner (ice), exit into a chimney. 5 m of artificial technical climbing. Further along an inclined internal corner, exit onto an icy balcony. The overhang is bypassed on the right via an internal corner and a series of ridges. Exit onto simpler dry rocks. Change of lead. To the left is the ridge of the bastion. Exit via a cleft onto the slab-like left wall of the bastion; small dry rocks with minor holds; difficult climbing (overshoes) for 30 m and exit onto a ledge under an overhanging section above. 30–40 m away, overhanging reddish rocks are visible. Traverse under the overhang to the right and up, and exit onto a second ledge; along it, to the wall to the right of the reddish overhang. Second crux:

• Up the wall 8–10 m to an overhang.
• Traverse through an internal corner onto a ledge.
• Up a cleft for 15 m and exit onto a balcony.

1. Technical category.
2. Caucasus, Mizhirgi gorge.
3. V. Krumkol 4676 m, via the North Face.
4. Suggested route - 6A category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Route characteristics: height difference: 1585 m. length: 1956 m. length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty: 399 m, out of which 6 category - 113 m. Average steepness of the rock bastion 70°.
6. Pitons hammered in:

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — technical.
2. Region — Central Caucasus, Bezengi region.
3. Peak Krumkol (4640) via the Central Bastion of the North face, combined route.
4. First ascent, proposed category of difficulty — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain 1440 m (by altimeter). Length of sections 5–6 km trud. — 480 m. Average steepness 53° (same as Melentyev's route, for which data is available in the USSR Sports Committee).
6. Pitons used: rock 24/4, ice 96, protection gear 15.
7. Total travel time: 15 + 7 + 11 = 33 hours.

St. Petersburg City Alpinism Championship 2013

Climbing Passport:

1. Central Caucasus, Lateral Ridge, Bezengi gorge, section 2.5 ECTM 2013
2. v. Krumkol (4688 m), center of the north wall (A. Kolchin), variant
3. Proposed: 5B category of difficulty (variant)
4. Route type: combined
5. Route height difference — 1600 m Total route length — 2900 m Section lengths:

• V category of difficulty — 505 m

1. Altitude-technical class.
2. Caucasus, Bezengi, Northern array, section 25 p. 92 according to the classification table 2001
3. Krumkol, via C rib 6A (Timofeev's route) 4676 m
4. The route is combined.
5. Height difference of the route: 1576 m. Route length: 1735 m. Length of sections: V–VI cat. diff. 1400 m. Average steepness: 70°.
6. Team's walking hours: 30 hours, 2 days.
7. Leader: Viktor Yu. Kramarenko CMS (Kharkov). Participants: Dmitry N. Podlesny CMS (Taganrog), born 1979. Alexander V. Gudzinsky CMS (Uzhgorod).
8. Coach: Valentina T. Orekhova, CMS, 1st category alpinism instructor-methodologist, cert. #550 (Taganrog);

Passport

Climbing area — Caucasus, Bezengi. Climbing route — North wall of "Krumkol" peak — 4676 m. Characteristics of the ascent:

• Height difference — 1680 m.
• Average steepness — 61°.
• Length — 460 m.
• Number of difficult sections — Number of pitons driven:
• Rock — 168

USSR Championship in the class of technically complex ascents 1971

Ascent

to peak Krumkol via the junction of the northwestern and northeastern walls, category 6B difficulty Team of the Moscow Regional Committee for Physical Culture and Sports Route: ascent via the junction of the northwestern and northeastern walls, category 6B difficulty, June 24, 1971 - path of the team — — — — path of the first ascenders Group that completed the ascent. | № | Full Name | Year of Birth | Rank | Home Address |

Jailyk via the East Ridge (I. Yukhin's route, cat. 4A)

The path from the Adylsu alpine camp (group of 4–8 people) through the Tyutyusu gorge to the initial bivouac at the upper part of the left-bank moraine of the Tyutyusu glacier is described in routes 184 and 188. From the initial bivouac on the moraine:

• Turn left and exit onto the snowy West counterfort descending from the East Ridge of Jailyk peak into the Tyutyusu gorge.
• Ascend the snowy, gently sloping ridge of the counterfort with several steep rises.
• Then move to the snow-ice slope (avalanches!) and continue ascending to the East Ridge of Jailyk peak. On the East Ridge:
• Turn right here.
• Move along simple and moderately difficult rocks, partly along a narrow snowy ridge (snowcornices!), and reach the base of the rocky ascent of the East gendarme.
• Overcome the gendarme directly via steep, crumbling, moderately difficult rocks of the ridge.