USSR Championship in the class of technically complex ascents 1971
Ascent
to peak Krumkol via the junction of the northwestern and northeastern walls, category 6B difficulty
Team of the Moscow Regional Committee for Physical Culture and Sports
Route: ascent via the junction of the northwestern and northeastern walls, category 6B difficulty, June 24, 1971 - path of the team — — — — path of the first ascenders
Group that completed the ascent.
| № | Full Name | Year of Birth | Rank | Home Address |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1. | VINOKUROV Anatoly Filippovich, captain | 1935 | CMS | Shchyolkovo, Moscow Region, Vokzal'naya St., 2, apt. 8 |
| 2. | PODYMOV Evgeny Vasilyevich | 1938 | CMS | Moscow; A-414, Onezhskaya St., 38, apt. 292 |
| 3. | DAUTER Boris Vladimirovich | 1926 | MS | Khimki, Moscow Region, Mayakovskogo St., 27, apt. 18 |
| 4. | OKHRI MENKO Stanislav Valentinovich | 1937 | CMS | Moscow, I-4 II, Yakhromskaya St., 2, apt. 19 |
4. Organization and Tactics of the Ascent
The team arrived in the area of the Bezengi alpine camp on June 13, and the next day, three team members - Vinokurov, Podymov, and Okhrimenko - went to the Krumkol bivouac to familiarize themselves with the route conditions and weather.
According to the submitted application for the USSR Championship, the team had submitted two routes on the northern wall (left route, category 6B difficulty, and right route - first ascent). Upon detailed examination of the right route, due to its danger, it was decided to ascend via the junction of the northwestern and northeastern walls, i.e., via the classified route of category 6B difficulty.
Table of Main Characteristics of the Ascent Route
Ascent route to peak Krumkol via the junction of the northwestern and northeastern walls (on the northeastern counterfort), category 6B difficulty.
Height difference of the route is 1500 m, including 420 m of complex sections. Steepness of the route is 70–75°.
| Date | Section | Steepness | Length (m) | Relief | Difficulty | Method of Passage / Belay | Time: Stop / Exit | Walking (h) | Pitons | Ice Axes | Bolt Pitons | Overnight (h) | Notes / Rations |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| June 24, 1971 | 0 | 45–50° | 240 | Snow-ice slope | Medium complexity | Alternating good progress with rope interaction via ice axe, pitons | 3:00 | 5 | |||||
| 1 | 50° | 110 | Rocks with ice blocks | Medium complexity | Alternating -"- progress with rope interaction, pitons | 5 | 3 | — | — | ||||
| 2 | 80° | 40 | Wall | Very difficult climbing | -"- pulling backpacks. | 6 | — | — | |||||
| 3 | 45° | 60 | Rocks of medium complexity | Easy climbing | Simultaneous good movement of all ropes with alternating belay. | 2 | — | — | — | ||||
| 4 | 80° | 80 | Wall, rocky | Difficult climbing | Alternating progress with interaction, pitons. | 8 | 1 | — | — | ||||
| 5 | 70° | 160 | Ridge, alternating rocky walls | Difficult and medium climbing | -"- | 15 | — | — | — | ||||
| 6 | 85° | 80 | Wall, covered with ice, water flowing | Very complex climbing | Alternating progress, pulling backpacks, pitons | 7 | 6 | — | — | ||||
| 7 | 45° | 80 | Ice slope, water flowing | Medium climbing | Alternating progress, piton belay. | 19:00 | 16 | 2 | 2 | — | Platform 450 for three, wet conditions. | ||
| June 25, 1971 | 8 | 50° | 200 | Snow-ice slope with rocky outcrops | Medium | Alternating good progress, belay via pitons | 7:00 | 3 | 6 | ||||
| 9 | 70° | 80 | Ice slope with rocky outcrops | Difficult climbing | -"- | 2 | 2 | — | — | ||||
| 10 | 85° | 40 | Ice couloir | Very difficult climbing | -"- | Good, sunny | 3 | 3 | — | ||||
| 11 | 80° | 260 | Ice-rock couloir | Very difficult climbing | -"- | Good 17:00 | 10 | 5 | 5 | — | Platform 450 sq.m on a ledge, good conditions, on snow | ||
| 12 | |||||||||||||
| June 26, 1971 | 75° | 450 | Ice-rock slope | Difficult and medium climbing | -"- | 6:30 | 20 | 20 | |||||
| 13 | 2 h | Snow-rock ridge, summit | Easy | Simultaneous and alternating, via ice axe and outcrops | 15:30 | 9:00 | Platform on snow, 450 g in fog, good conditions | ||||||
| 1620 | TOTAL | 35 h | 77 | 49 | |||||||||
| TEAM CAPTAIN TEAM COACH | (VINOKUROV) | (DAUTER) |
6. Passage of the Route
June 24, 1971
At 14:00, we rose. Observers Valya Ivanchina and Sasha Lenchuk had thoughtfully prepared breakfast. At 3:00, we set out. Having packed three backpacks, we quickly crossed the glacier and ascended simultaneously to a rock (section 0). We passed the bergschrund near the rock, hammering in 2 ice axes, and began the ascent. Okhrimenko led. The night was warm, the snow was soft, and the steps were made with one strike. We approached the "serp" in good spirits; Vinokurov took the lead in the second part of the "serp," where ice on the snow was exposed. We noticed the tracks of the Gavrilov group. We approached the rocks. We passed two ropes of rocks fairly easily. Vinokurov led without a backpack, followed by Podymov on his rope, and then Dauter. Okhrimenko removed the pitons.
We approached a 10-meter ice couloir before the second snow ledge (the first serious section), passed it, and approached a rocky wall - very difficult climbing (one rope) (section 2). Okhrimenko, going second, removed his backpack. After the wall, we searched for a cairn. We found a bivouac of some group and a cairn, but no note. Having gone a bit further, we emerged under a wall that led to a ridge and our first planned bivouac. Up a crack (section 4), after one rope, we emerged onto severely damaged rocks. Another rope, and we were on the ridge. At 10 m below the bivouac (platform on snow) - time 11:00, we were doing well! Straight up onto the rocky ridge - difficult. 60 m short of the Tamovskaya bivouac, we veered left up towards the wall. The first ascenders went right along the crack. We continued up. We started to encounter problems:
- Firm snow was falling from above
- Water was flowing over the rocks
The wall (section 6) was covered in ice, with rocks protruding. We put on crampons. We ascended along the junction of rocks and ice. Very difficult climbing. Starting the second rope, we encountered an overhanging smooth wall. After consulting, we decided to traverse left and then ascend up a crack. On 5 m of the wall during the traverse, we hammered in 5 pitons. We emerged onto the ridge. Water was flowing along it, ice. We hammered in 3 ice axes and began to pull up the backpacks. When we pulled up the third backpack, a wet layer of snow (30 cm) suddenly slid down from above. One backpack "flew away." We quickly assessed the loss: (sleeping bag, down jacket, and some food). We continued. The day ended. We passed a rope on wet ice and found a place for the night (1st night). The space for four was a bit cramped. We set up, or rather, hung the tent, and crawled in wet. We boiled tea, ate without appetite. Everyone was very tired; we had worked for 16 hours. We slept poorly.
June 25
We rose at 5:00. The weather was good, and so was the mood. Vinokurov led. 10 m from the bivouac, we found a titanium piton (left behind, as it turned out later, by Ryabukhin). We removed the piton. The first person in crampons ascended 80 m, hammering in ice axes every 20 m. The ice was covered with a 4-5 cm layer of snow, frozen by the night frost. We progressed quickly; having left the bivouac at 7:00, we were at Gavrilov's bivouac by 10:00. After passing another two ropes, we approached an ice couloir (section 10). We began the ascent via the right groove. Unstable rocks protruded from the ice; it was very difficult to ascend. Vinokurov led. The exit onto the rocky ridge was very challenging. The rest ascended this section with pulling. Dauter went last without a backpack and hammered in pitons well. Further, there was about 10 m of "Kunars," and then the "Ice Forehead," which was also very complex at first. By 17:00, we reached the bivouac. The weather was magnificent, and so was the bivouac; the sun was shining. We were very tired, our fingers were cramped, but the mood was excellent. If everything went well, we would exit to the summit tomorrow.
June 26
Having rested well, we set out at 6:30. The upper part of the counterfort was quite monotonous. Rocks alternated with ice. Having expended a lot of energy in the first two days, we progressed at a moderate pace. At some point during the day, we emerged onto the main ridge. Along the ridge, there were tracks - a path left by the Maltsev group's traversers. At 15:30, we reached the summit. We decided not to descend but to bivouac. The sun was shining; we observed the panorama. We decided to descend via the category 3B route the next day to examine the southern gorge and especially the Bezengi gorge.
June 27
Having set out at 7:00, we were at the moraine of the Krumkol glacier by 15:00. After resting, we went to the hut. We were at the hut by 19:30.
It should be noted that the team did not use bolt pitons during the ascent (they were not available). All complex sections were passed via free climbing. Ladders were not used, although the group had 2 ladders.
The group deviated from the first ascenders' path on sections 6 and 7, veering left by one rope. Initially, they thought this would shorten the path.
However, as it turned out, this section was passed with very complex climbing, and its passage took just as much time as the usual path.
The group does not recommend this path for subsequent climbers due to its danger in warm weather.
7. Characteristics of the Participants
- PODYMOV Evgeny Vasilyevich - a strong climber, possessing great endurance, capable of tackling sections of any complexity, and skilled at organizing bivouac sites.
- OKHRIMENKO Stanislav Valentinovich, team quartermaster, active on the route, able to create coziness in the tent.
- DAUTER Boris Vladimirovich, the most experienced in the team, team coach, handles all mountaineering tasks on the route well.
- VINOKUROV Anatoly Filippovich, team captain, performs any task during the ascent.
All participants coped well with the tasks assigned to them during the ascent.
8. Support Groups
The support groups included:
- Observation group, which monitored the progress of the climbers on the route and maintained radio contact with them, as well as informed the main camp about the group's progress.
- Backup group, located in the main camp.
