Krumkol via the center of the right bastion of the North wall (Tsey team route). BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE ROUTE

A 500 m snow-ice ascent (40°) leads to the beginning of the bastion. Along the way, there are two ice sections to overcome (50–100 m). Exit to a rocky island. From the island, a steep (45°) ice slope leads to the beginning of the bastion. Exit onto fragile, heavily degraded rocks. 10 m up and left along the rocks to an overhanging section (change of lead). Traverse left (difficult climbing; icy rocks make it hard to set up belays) and, crossing an internal corner (ice), exit into a chimney. 5 m of artificial technical climbing. Further along an inclined internal corner, exit onto an icy balcony. The overhang is bypassed on the right via an internal corner and a series of ridges. Exit onto simpler dry rocks. Change of lead. To the left is the ridge of the bastion. Exit via a cleft onto the slab-like left wall of the bastion; small dry rocks with minor holds; difficult climbing (overshoes) for 30 m and exit onto a ledge under an overhanging section above. 30–40 m away, overhanging reddish rocks are visible.

Traverse under the overhang to the right and up, and exit onto a second ledge; along it, to the wall to the right of the reddish overhang. Second crux:

• Up the wall 8–10 m to an overhang.
• Traverse through an internal corner onto a ledge.
• Up a cleft for 15 m and exit onto a balcony. The overhang is passed. Left and up along the wall under wet black rocks. Ice in places. Right, through a snow-filled gap, a couloir and a series of ridges (easy climbing) lead to a ledge from which the top of the bastion is visible. Further along the snow-covered rocks of the bastion until its end. Exit onto an ice slope. 150 m up the ice, bypassing rocky sections of the counterfort and an overhanging ice serac (passage through a cleft between it and the edge of the ice field). Exit onto snow (bergschrund), leading through 300–320 m to the upper ice pitch.

Along the edge of the pitch on loose snow (it's impossible to set up belays without an avalanche shovel!) and further along the ice slope, exit onto the ridge into a pre-summit depression. 60 m along the ridge to the summit.