Report

On the Ascent

TO THE SUMMIT OF FISHT 2867 m VIA THE NORTH-EAST RIDGE ROUTE, CATEGORY 2B DIFFICULTY BY THE "FREELINE" MAC TEAM FROM JUNE 28, 2024 TO JUNE 30, 2024 2024

I. Ascent Passport

R21 List:

• R24–R25 120 m, 20°, 2
• R23–R24 300 m, 15°, 1
• R22–R23 120 m, 50°, 2
• R21–R22 250 m, 15°, 1 2350 m May 6, 1985 R20 300 m, 65–60°, 2 List:
• R19 20 m, 95°, W/Al
• R18 20 m, 45°, 2

Ascent to Tsyndyshko 2nd North peak via the North edge

Group composition

1. Gorshenev K.A. — 1st sports category — leader, participant
2. Gorbachevsky A.D. — 1st sports category, instructor (No. 2584)
3. Volkovsky V.Z. — 2nd sports category, participant
4. Semenov M.I. — 2nd sports category, participant.

Day one (approach to the route)

April 28, 1974 Departure from the base camp at Kardyvach lake at 15:00, upwards along the right bank (in the direction of travel) of the Upper Mzymta river to a group of large boulders beneath the walls of Layub Eastern peak. Then, upwards to the right across a wide snowy slope with rocky outcrops, leading to a saddle beneath Northern Tsyndyshko peak. The journey from the base camp takes 3–3.5 hours. Overnight stay on the saddle. From here, the beginning of the route is visible. This part of the path was prepared: steps were trodden to the ridge connecting to Northern Tsyndyshko peak.

Day two

REPORT on the first ascent to the summit of Tsyndyshho Main via the Western counterfort in the period from April 29 to 30, 1974, by a group from the Krasnodar Regional Council of the Burevestnik Sports Society (Route complexity category — 3B)

Description of the ascent to Mt. Tsyndyshho Main (3210 m) via the Western counterfort

Group composition:

1. Khoruzhik O.V. — 1st sports category — leader
2. Shklyaev E.V. — Candidate Master of Sports — participant
3. Gerasyuk A.K. — Candidate Master of Sports — participant
4. Kovalevsky V.A. — Candidate Master of Sports — participant
5. Akhtyrsky O.A. — Candidate Master of Sports — participant

First day — April 29, 1974

REPORT

On the first ascent to the summit of Tsyndyshko North via the North wall, May 5-7, 1972, by a group from the Krasnodar Regional Council of the Burevestnik Sports Society

Group Composition

1. AKHTYRSKY O.A. — CMS — team leader 2. GERASYUK A.K. — CMS — participant 3. BEZRUKAVNIKOV A.I. — 1st sports category — « — 4. SOVENKOV V.S. — 2nd sports category — « —

Approach to the Initial Bivouac

From Adler to Lake Ritsa by bus. Then to Avadhara settlement, 4-5 hours on foot or 30 minutes by car (depending on road conditions). Overnight stay.

Ascent Passport

Peak 2970.0 (Zaimov-peak) Route: via the southwestern ridge Complexity category — 1B cat. (combined) Leader: G. G. Skosyrev Western Caucasus, Arkhyz, Gnilaya gully, Kara-Jash mountain range Section in CMGA — 2.1. E-mail — ZHUR58@RAMBLER.RU

Report

On the first ascent of the climbing route to the summit of Peak 2970.0 (Zaimov-peak) "Via the southwestern ridge" 1B cat. (combined). At the year-round alpine event: "Championship and primacy of NP 'Club of Northern Travels 'Sauk-Pai' 2012 (class 'First ascents')".

Report

On the first ascent to the summit "Pik 3305", made by a group of climbers from the Stavropol region on May 5, 1980, in the Arkhyz mountain region (Western Caucasus) of the Stavropol region, west of the "Marukh" pass, Sofiyskiy ridge. The Arkhyz mountain region is located on the northern slopes of the Main Caucasian Range between the Kardyvach region (Krasnodar region) to the west and the "Marukhskiy" pass to the east. The region is entirely within the Stavropol region and is located within 43° north latitude. North of the Main Caucasian Range lies the Sofiyskiy ridge, where this unnamed peak with an elevation of 3305 meters above sea level is located. The base camp was situated at an altitude of 1320 m above sea level, 1.5 km from the "Lednikovaya" farm. From the base camp, the route went upstream along the Sofia River to the tributary from the Ak-Ayry glacier, then up to the "barany lby" (ram's foreheads), and from there to the right into a wide couloir that led to the firn fields. And then further up to the "Stolichny" pass — a 3-hour walk from the camp. The "Pik 3305" summit is a rocky massif on the crest of the Sofiyskiy ridge, approached by several powerful counterforts from the north. To the south, it ends in a ridge leading to "Pik 3200", v. Nadezhda 3353, and further to v. Sofia 3640 m. The northern side of "Pik 3305" continues with a ridge leading to "Pik 3231" and further to the Mingi-Kyol-Bashi 3230 m peak. The ascent route is combined — rock and snow, ridge. The character of the rocks: mostly heavily destroyed and snow-covered. The qualification of the group that made the first ascent is quite high — 1st sports category, three of the climbers being instructors-methodologists in mountaineering. The ascent was tactically competent. The description of the ascent route, passport, table of main characteristics, map scheme, photographs, and other materials are attached. Group composition:

CLIMBING CLASS — Rock climbing CLIMBING REGION — Western Caucasus, Middle part of the North-West ridge of the Sofiyskiy ridge to the South-East from Stolichny 3.251 pass PEAK, ROUTE — “9 September” (first ascenders’ suggestion) via the Northern slope PROPOSED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY — 3B ROUTE DESCRIPTION — Combined (snow and rock), absolute height difference ~550 m NUMBER OF PITONS DRIVEN — 10 DURATION — 4.5 hours NUMBER OF NIGHTS — No nights required on the route CLIMBING LEADER — E. Zaporozhchenko, Candidate for Master of Sports

For the USSR Championship in mountaineering.

Report

On the ascent of Peak Tajikistan via the North-East face (category of high-altitude and technical ascents). Team captain: Honored Master of Sports of the USSR Mal'tsev V.F. Team coach: Honored coach of the RSFSR, Master of Sports of the USSR Markov V.G. Senior coach of the gathering, deputy captain: Master of Sports of the USSR Solov'ev G.S. Team composition:

• Captain: Master of Sports of the USSR Mal'tsev V.F.
• Deputy captain: Master of Sports of the USSR Solov'ev G.S.