Report

On the Ascent

TO THE SUMMIT OF FISHT 2867 m VIA THE NORTH-EAST RIDGE ROUTE, CATEGORY 2B DIFFICULTY BY THE "FREELINE" MAC TEAM FROM JUNE 28, 2024 TO JUNE 30, 2024

2024

I. Ascent Passport

1. General Information
1.1Full Name, Sports Rank of the LeaderKovalev Roman Alexandrovich, 1st sports rank
1.2Full Name, Sports Rank of ParticipantsTimoshina Victoria Alexandrovna, 3rd sports rank. Laptev Alexander Vladimirovich, 3rd sports rank.
1.3Full Name of CoachMotienko Nikolai Ilyich, CMS
1.4OrganizationMAC "Freeline"
2. Characteristics of the Ascent Object
2.1RegionKrasnodar and Stavropol Krais up to Marukh Pass
2.2Valley
2.3Number of Section According to the 2013 Classification Table97
2.4Name and Height of the SummitFisht, 2867
2.5Geographical Coordinates of the Summit (Latitude/Longitude), GPS Coordinates43°57′13″ N 39°54′11″ E
3. Characteristics of the Route
3.1Name of the RouteNE ridge
3.2Proposed Category of Difficulty2B
3.3Degree of Route Exploration
3.4Nature of the Route TerrainK
3.5Height Difference of the Route (altimeter or GPS data)1167 m
3.6Length of the Route (in meters)2400 m
3.7Technical Elements of the Route (total length of sections of varying difficulty with terrain characteristics)1st cat. rock, glacier – 1100 m.
2nd cat. rock – 940 m.
3rd cat. rock – 300 m.
4th cat. rock – 60 m.
3.8Descent from the SummitVia route 1B, S-slope
3.9Additional Route Characteristics
4. Characteristics of the Team's Actions
4.1Time of Movement (team's walking hours, in hours and days)14 hours
4.2Overnight Staysno
4.3Departure on the Route05:30, June 29, 2024
4.4Arrival at the Summit16:40, June 29, 2024
4.5Return to Base Camp19:30, June 29, 2024
5. Person Responsible for the Report
5.1Full Name, e-mailKovalev Roman Alexandrovich, trogvar.kmv@gmail.com

II. Description of the Ascent

1. Characteristics of the Ascent Object

img-0.jpeg1.1. General photo of the summit

img-1.jpeg1.2. Map of the area

img-2.jpeg 1.3. Photopanorama of the area

img-3.jpeg 1.3. Photopanorama of the area (continued)

2. Characteristics of the Route

img-4.jpeg2.1. Technical photograph of the route (rocky part) img-5.jpeg2.1. Technical photograph of the route (exit to the plateau) img-6.jpeg2.1. Technical photograph of the route (snow-ice part)

2.3. Technical characteristics of the route sections

Section №Terrain CharacteristicsCategory of DifficultyLength, mSteepnessType and Number of Pitons
R0–R1Grassy ridge, rocky walls131035°0
R1–R2Shelf, rocky wall34045°2
R2–R3Rocky wall, rocky couloir35045°3
R3–R4Shelf, wall, ridge34045°2
R4–R5Ridge34035°
R5–R6Grassy slope, rocky ridge, rocky wall2–310045°1
R6–R7Cleft, inner corner4–36065°6
R7–R8Walls, chimney3–46065°6
R8–R9Walls, ridge26045°1
R9–R10Slabs110035°
R10–R11Ridge230025°
R11–R12Plateau125015°
R12–R13Glacier145025°
R13–R14Snow ridge, rocks212045°
R14–R15Snow ridge230030°
R15–R16Ridge212010°

2.4. Technical diagram of the route sections in UIAA symbols

img-7.jpeg

3. Characteristics of the Team's Actions

Section №DescriptionNotes
R0–R1From the "Fisht" tourist shelter, follow the marked trail to the base of the NE ridge, orienting towards a lone pine tree under the base of the first wall of the ridge. Then upwards along the grassy ridge with rock outcrops and small rocky walls.
R1–R2Upwards to the left along the shelf, at the end of which there is a transition to the rocky wall and then to the right towards a large pine tree. Belay on anchors. Station on a tree.Photo 1
R2–R3From the pine tree, up the wall to the left, transition into a rocky couloir and then upwards through it. As you enter the couloir, your partner cannot be heard. Station on a ledge.Photo 2
R3–R4To the left upwards along the shelf with a transition to the right onto the ridge. On the ridge, there are many loose rocks that can fall onto the belay station.
R4–R5From the station upwards along the broken ridge to a ledge with a loop, descend 15 m from it, and then upwards along the grassy slope to two "gendarme" rocks. They can be passed either directly or bypassed on the right through a wide cleft formed by a split slab.Photo 3
R5–R6Along the rocky wall, exit onto the broken ridge, and then to the right upwards to a large shelf. The entire section is 60 m.Photo 4
R6–R7Descend from the ridge 2 m to a large shelf under a monolithic gray wall. On its right part, there is a cleft that narrows at the top. Upwards through the cleft and then to the left into an inner corner, reaching a rocky shelf with a cairn. Station on a ledge. Belaying is not rich; anchors are mainly used. Section is 60 m. "The key to the route!"Photo 5
R7–R8From the station, to the left upwards along the monolithic wall and then to a narrow chimney. It's better to overcome it on the right along monolithic inclined slabs and then up the chimney. Belaying is varied; friends and anchors go well. Section is 60 m. Station at the exit from the chimney on your own points or on a small outcrop.Photo 6
R8–R9Along simple walls and shelves, exit onto the ridge. On it, a station on a ledge.Photo 7
R9–R10Along slabs and then along the ridge, move to the right upwards in the direction of the Fisht glacier; movement is simultaneous.
R10–R11
R11–R12
R12–R13Transition into the circus and to the beginning of the glacier and exit onto it. Further, the route coincides with route 1B along the S-slope. Movement is simultaneous. Crampons and ice axes will be needed. At the summit, a memorial cross is installed. No note was found in the summit cairn.
R13–R14
R14–R15
R15–R16Photo 8

4. Photographs of the Route Sections

img-8.jpeg Photo 1 (section R1–R2)

img-9.jpeg Photo 2 (beginning of section R3–R4)

img-10.jpeg Photo 3 (section R4–R5)

Photo 4 (beginning of section R5–R6)

Photo 5 (section R6–R7)

img-11.jpeg Photo 6 (upper part of section R7–R8)

Photo 7 (upper part of section R8–R9)

Photo 8 (summit memorial cross)

Sources

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