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First ascent description for the peak Shavlinskaya (3400 m) via a combined route, category 3A, on the Severo-Chuyskiy Range in Altai.

Ascent Certificate

for N. Shavlinskaya peak, 3400 m, 3A cat. diff.

  1. Mountainous Altai, North-Chuya Range, eastern spur of the main range between the Maasha (Mazhoy, Maasheyul) river gorge and the Shavla river gorge.
  2. N. Shavlinskaya peak, 3400 m, via the Central spur of the Northern slope and the Eastern ridge.
  3. Proposed — 3A cat. diff., first ascent.
  4. Route type — combined.
  5. Height difference of the route: 800 m (by aneroid barometer). Route length: 735 m. Length of sections:
    • 1st cat. diff. — 250 m;
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Description of the ascent route to the Shavla-12 peak via the eastern ridge from the Abnl-Ork pass, complexity category 3B.

ASCENT

To v. SHAVLA-12 from the Abul-Orek pass (approximately 36 km tr.). Completed by a group of climbers from the Altai Regional Federation of Alpinism expedition.

Group Composition

  1. Bunyaeva V.S. 2nd sports category
  2. Kuznetsov N.A. 2nd sports category
  3. Achkasov Yu.I. MS
  4. Parshennikov A.A. 2nd sports category
  5. Sannikov A.I. 2nd sports category Group Leader: BUNYAEVA V.S.

Route Description

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Climbing route description (Category 1B difficulty) to Yubileynaya Peak (3403 m) in the North Chuya Range via the south-eastern couloir of the north-eastern ridge.

1.2.114

Passport

1.2. Severo-Chuyskiy ridge, Aktru gorge.

Peak Yubileynaya 3403: via south-eastern couloir of north-eastern ridge

Proposed: Category 1B difficulty, first ascent Route type: combined Note: height (3403.2) — according to the published online map M 1:50000 Altitude difference according to group's altimeter: 3400–2940 = 460 m. Route length: couloir — 500 m (estimated), ridge — 450 m (estimated), total — 950 m (estimated), including Category I difficulty section — 180 m from 45° to 60°. Average steepness of the entire route — 30° (estimated).

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Ascent to the summit Rossiya XX veka in the Severo-Chuysky ridge on Altai, category of complexity 1B, description of the route and passage.

PASSPORT

  1. Class. Second ascent. (First ascent was made by V. Maltsev's group in 1999.)
  2. Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge, Karakabak gorge.
  3. Rossiya XX veka peak via NE ridge.
  4. Proposed category: 2B.
  5. Height 3100 m, elevation gain 550 m, length 1180 m.
  6. Pitons: 6 ice screws.
  7. Moving time: 6 hours from glacier to glacier 12 hours from base camp to base camp.
  8. Overnight stays: not required.
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Description of the first ascent of a combined 4A category route to the "Rossiya XX veka" peak in the Severo-Chuysky Range on Altai.

Passport

  1. Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge, Karakabak gorge, 1.2
  2. Peak "Russia XX века" via the right spur of the south-eastern wall. Height 3393 m. (In the classification, this peak is named 3100. Routes 55 and 56, section 1.2. It is proposed to return to the name indicated in the note found on the peak by the group that made the first ascent via the north-eastern ridge. In the note, the peak is named "Russia XX века", leader V. Maltsev. The ascent route is not specified. Otherwise, there is a discrepancy. On the topographic map at a scale of 1:50,000, the height of this peak is given as 3393, and the name is 3100.)
  3. A first ascent of category 4A is proposed.
  4. The nature of the route is combined.
  5. Height difference 370 m. Route length 660 m. Length of category 4 sections 130 m. Average slope of the main part 45°, entire route 35°.
  6. Used pitons: rock - 6, chocks - 13, ice - 3 (on ascent).
  7. Climbing hours - 7 (from the start of the spur to the summit).
  8. Leader: A. Drakin - Candidate Master of Sports. Participants: N. Astafurova - 3rd sports category, I. Gorbunova - 2nd sports category, V. Penzev - 2nd sports category, A. Chistyakov - 1st sports category.
  9. Coach: A. Drakin - 1st sports category No. 68.
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Description of the ascent route to the 3740 m peak in the North-Chuya Range of Altai with a difficulty level of 2B–3A.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

  1. Region: Altai. Severo-Chuysky Ridge.
  2. Peak: 3740
  3. Proposed: 2B–3A category of difficulty
  4. Route type: combined
  5. Route description: Elevation gain — 960 m Route length — 2600 m Length of 3rd category of difficulty sections — 100 m Average slope — 40°
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Report on the first ascent of category 3B route to the summit of Kzyl-Tash 3486 m via the icy slope of the northwestern wall.

Report

ON THE FIRST ASCENT, ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT KZYLTASH 3486 M VIA THE ICE SLOPE OF THE EASTERN PART OF THE NORTH-WEST WALL, CATEGORY 3B COMPLEXITY FOR THE PERIOD MAY 4, 2022

I. Ascent Passport

№№ p.p.1. General Information
1.1Full Name, sports rank of the leaderKarlin Sergey Fedorovich, 1st sports rank
1.2Full Name, sports rank of participantsParticipants: Tokareva Margarita Andreevna — 2nd sports rank, Tokarev Vitaly Viktorovich — 2nd sports rank, Khabarov Dmitry Alexandrovich — 3rd sports rank, Ryabinin Viktor Vladimirovich — 3rd sports rank, Polivaeva Daria Andreevna — 3rd sports rank
1.3Full Name, sports rank of the leaderMakarov Oleg Nikolaevich CMS
1.4Full Name, sports rank of participantsParticipants: Melekhov Mikhail Gennadievich — 3rd sports rank, Kharitonov Sergey Vladimirovich — 3rd sports rank
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Report on the first ascent of the North-Eastern wall of DVS peak (3755 m) in the Altai Republic with a description of the 4A category route.

Report

on the first ascent to the summit of DVS, 3755 m, Altai Republic, Kosh-Agachsky district, North-Chuya Ridge, Aktru valley via the north-eastern wall 4A cat. diff. (combined) on October 14-15, 2022 Participants: – Yakubovsky Ivan Alexandrovich, II sports category – Mikhalev Sergey Vasilievich, II sports category

I. Climbing Report

1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports category of the leaderYakubovsky Ivan Alexandrovich, II sports category
1.2Full name, sports category of participantsMikhalev Sergey Vasilievich, II sports category
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Report on the first ascent of Pik Vladimir Balyberdin (3500 m) in the South Chuya Ridge, 3B category of difficulty, a combined route.

Vladimir Balyberdin Peak (3500 m)

Report

Altai Regional Alpinism Federation (ARAF) team on the first ascent to Vladimir Balyberdin Peak. South-Chuya Ridge, Elangash valley. Leader: Konstantin Bondarchuk, Candidate Master of Sports in Alpinism. Participants:

  • Zufar Akhatov
  • Pavel Badanov
  • Dmitry Grebennikov
  • Evgeny Drugolev
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Description of the route to Peak Djugit via the north wall, 6th category of difficulty, first ascent made by Vakurin's team in 1983.

Passport

  1. Technical class.
  2. Terskey Ala-Too, Karakol gorge.
  3. Peak Jigit, via the center of the north face's kar.
  4. Proposed 6th category of difficulty, first ascent.
  5. Elevation gain: 1220 m. Total route length 1565 m, length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty 715 m.
  6. Pitons hammered in: | Category | Hammered in | Left behind | | :--------- | ----------: | ----------: | | Rock | 132 | 37 |
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