Ascent Log

1. Western Pamir, Yazgulyam Range
2. Peak 4723 m, via the eastern slope (first ascent)
3. Proposed category — 2A cat. dif., first ascent.
4. Route type: snow and ice.
5. Route elevation gain — 170 m (by altimeter). Route length — 260 m. Average steepness:
   • main part of the route — 50°.
   • entire route — 35–40°.

Ascent Passport

1. Class — High-altitude technical
2. South-West Pamir, North Shugnan Range, Nematzdara valley
3. Vodzh peak, 5434 m, via the North face through Marsh Mira pass
4. Proposed category of complexity — 5A cat. diff., snow-ice
5. Height difference: 780 m, length 1170 m, length of 5th category sections — 410 m, average steepness of main sections — 51° (5170–5410) 49° (4694–5080)
6. Pitons driven: protection and ITO rock —

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing category: technical
2. Climbing area (according to KTMGV): South-West Pamir, Shugnan Range.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: p. Mayronis, 5155 m via the South-West ridge.
4. Proposed difficulty category: 4B cat. diff., IV.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 955 m; average steepness 55°; length of sections: I — 300 m, II — 200 m, III — 100 m, IV — 80 m, V — 100 m.
6. Number of pitons hammered for belaying: rock — 17; ice — none; bolt — none; for creating ITO — none.
7. Number of travel hours: 14 h.
8. Number of nights and their characteristics: one night at an altitude of 4200 m.
9. Team coach: MS Dainius Makauskas.

1. Climbing category: technical.
2. Climbing area: South-Western Pamir; ridge: North-Shugnan.
3. Peak: 40 years of Chelyabinsk Polytechnic Institute named after Lenin Komsomol; height: 5070 m; ascent route: along the northern ridge.
4. Route characteristics: height difference — 380 m, length of sections 2nd cat. diff. — 570 m, 3rd cat. diff. — 105 m, 4th cat. diff. — 35 m, average steepness — 35°.
5. Estimated difficulty category of the route: 3A, 25 combined.
6. Pitons driven:

4.13.136

SOUTHWESTERN PAMIR NORTH SHUGNAN RANGE Peak 40 let Chelyabinskogo politekhnicheskogo instituta im. Leninskogo komsomola (5070) First ascent route, category 3B, via the N wall, ice and snow. KARPENKOV M.V., SITCHIKHIN YU.V., SMIRNOV M.G., VAKHITOV T.K. August 16, 1983 450 m, 45°, III, 220/II, 160/16, 28 rope ladders 6 hours

42

GENERAL PHOTO OF MUNKU-SARDYK PEAK. Legend:

• 1B category difficulty route
• 2A category difficulty route
• 2B category difficulty route

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE CLIMBING AREA.

The Eastern Sayan is a vast mountain system stretching from the upper reaches of the Yenisei to the southern tip of Lake Baikal. It is characterized by striking contrasts:

Ascent Passport

1. Region — Eastern Sayan.
2. Peak — Tykhen-Ardyn 3175 m NE ridge from Gorny pass.
3. Category — 2A cat. dif., first ascent.
4. Route type — combined.
5. Route description: Total elevation gain — 1100 m, including ascent to Gorny pass. Average steepness of the main part — 40°.
6. Equipment used on the route: protection — 6 pieces.
7. Total climbing hours — 10 hours.
8. Overnights — none.

Brief Overview of the Climbing Area in the Mugovek Valley, Bolshoy Sayan Ridge

The climbing area is located in the Buryat Republic on the border with Mongolia in the Bolshoy Sayan Ridge and its constituent part - the Munku Sardyk Ridge - in the upper reaches of the Mugovek and Beliy Irkut valleys. The hub of the area is the massif of Munku Sardyk mountain (3491 m) - the highest point of the Sayan Mountains. The area is 300 km from Irkutsk in a strictly western direction. The road passes as follows:

• From Irkutsk to Mondy village - a good asphalt road of state significance.
• From Mondy village - 25 km on a gravel road leading to the Okinsky district of the Buryat Republic, to the bridge over the Beliy Irkut River.
• Further, the road goes to the pass, and the path to the foot of Munku Sardyk mountain and the climbing site in the Mugovek valley passes through the canyon of the Beliy Irkut River and the Mugovek River from an altitude of 1400 to 2200 m, i.e., to the forest boundary. Features of the section:
• In winter, this section is traversed on ice with crampons.
• Above the canyon and the forest boundary, the Mugovek River valley is wide and trough-shaped.
• In the upper part, above the second cirque, there is a cirque lake Ehoy.

ALPINISM FEDERATION OF THE REPUBLIC OF BURYATIA

Report

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT ARSHAN VIA THE RIGHT BUTTRESS OF THE SOUTHERN RIDGE APPROXIMATELY CATEGORY 3A DIFFICULTY June 9, 2018

I. Climbing Passport

Pik Baruun from the south Suvorkina L.D. Sayan Vostochny, 6B

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Area: Eastern Sayan, Tunkin Goltsy, Baruun-Khandagai gorge
3. Peak: 2874 m Pik Baruun from the south
4. Proposed: 2A cat. diff.
5. Route type: combined
6. Route characteristics: Elevation gain: 800 m. Route length: 1412 m. Length of section with 3rd cat. diff.: 22 m. Length of section with 2nd cat. diff.: 200 m. Length of section with 1st cat. diff.: 1190 m. Steepness of the main part of the route 40°
7. Used on the route: