St. Petersburg Alpine Climbing Championship 2020 (high-altitude technical class) Report on the ascent to Dalar peak (3979 m) via the north buttress of the north shoulder (Tramontana), category 5A. The route was completed by the team of the Alpine Federation of St. Petersburg. St. Petersburg 2020

Ascent Passport

1. Western Caucasus, from Nakhar Pass to Chiperezaou Pass. Section No. 2.3 of the classifier of routes to mountain peaks.
2. Dalar peak (3979 m), via the north buttress of the north shoulder (Tramontana).
3. Category of complexity — 5A.

Ascent Passport

I. Rock climbing category 2. Caucasus. From Nakhar pass to Chipperazau pass. 3. Dalar peak (3979 m) via the North-Eastern wall of the Eastern shoulder. 4. Difficulty category - 5B (third ascent of the route) 5. Route characteristics: height difference R0–R15 - 700 m, length of sections with 5-6 difficulty category - 610 m, including 400 m on the shoulder wall R0–R12, average steepness of the shoulder wall R0–R12 - 81°. 6. Pitons hammered: for rock protection (including chocks) 99(35), for creating artificial support points 10(4), ice screws (on descent) - (4), bolt pitons - - 7. Total climbing hours - 23 hours 8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: two good bivouacs in a tent.

Passport

1. Rock class.
2. Western Caucasus, Uzukol region.
3. Peak "Dalar", center of the northern wall of the bastion.
4. Proposed - 6B category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Height difference: 1200 m, length - 1825 m (1935 m). Length of sections with 5-6 category of difficulty - 695 m. Average steepness of the main sections 85° (2900-3560 m): including sections with 6 category of difficulty - 415 m (2900-3080 m, 3110-3170 m, 3245-3270 m, 3300-3350 m, 3420-3525 m); 87° (2900-3080 m, 3300-3350 m, 3420-3525 m); 90° (3110-3170 m); 92° (3245-3270 m).
6. Pitons hammered: | rock | bolt | chocks | ice | | :--: | :----: | :----: | :--: |

Passport

1. Rock climbing category.
2. Western Caucasus, Kichkinekol gorge.
3. Peak "Dalar", via the northern wall, Snesarev's route.
4. Third ascent — Category 5B difficulty.
5. Elevation gain — 895 m, length — 1050 m. Length of sections: Category 6 difficulty — 570 m. Average steepness of the route is 75°.
6. Pitons driven:
   • rock — 250
   • bolted — 5 (x)

Dvoinyashka Peak — 3800 m

Traversing the Western and Eastern peaks (Description of the route as you move towards the summit) From the "Uzunkol" camp, follow the right bank of the Mordy River to the first koshi, cross the bridge to the left bank, and follow the trail to a large talus accumulation in the gorge. After the talus, follow the riverbank to the start of the ascent up the left, grey, large moraine. Ascend along the ridge to a clearly defined confluence of two moraine ridges. From here, descend left from the moraine via a trail and ascend a grassy slope to a terrace, then continue up slopes and scree to reach the large-boulder moraine. Cross it to reach the Dalar Glacier plateau. Crossing the plateau, approach the slopes of the Dalar pass. Ascend a snowy slope to a terrace before a steep snowy ascent (80 m, 50°). In rope teams, ascend to the bergschrund — cross via a bridge and a gap (belay!). Beyond the bergschrund, ascend a snowy slope to the Dalar pass. There are platforms on the rocks. From the camp, it takes 5.5–6 hours. From the Dalar pass, descend left and down, bypassing the southern ridge of Dalar Peak, and follow the scree left of the "ram's foreheads" to the upper part of the cirque between Dalar and Dvoinyashka peaks, to the 1st narrow couloir on the left. Ascend the couloir (in rope teams!) 50 m up and exit to a scree terrace. From the terrace, go right through a snowpatch and then along the "ram's foreheads" (belay!) — exit right and below the saddle between Dalar and Dvoinyashka peaks. From here, traverse right along a large terrace, through a snowpatch, to a rocky outcrop, and from it descend to a depression in the southern ridge of the Western Dvoinyashka peak. Ascend 50 m straight up along broken rocks to the base of the ridge — a bivouac site. From the Dalar pass, it takes 4 hours.

10. Climbing Passport

1. Climbing category: rock
2. Climbing area: Gvandra region of the Caucasus
3. Climbing route: v. Zamok via the South wall, 3930 m
4. Climbing characteristics: height difference — 900 m, average steepness — 85°, length of complex section — 600 m
5. Pitons driven:

• rock — 228
• bolt — 7
• chocks — 9

2.3.60 58 Traversing the peaks: KANNY-KAYA — CHUNUR-BASHI — CHUNUR-DZHAR from "Instruktorkiy" pass — Cat. 3A in both directions. From "Uzbekol" alpine camp along the trail of Kichkinekol gorge to the stream flowing from the Sredniy Kichkinekol glacier and along the trail along the stream to a green terrace. "Green campsite". From here, up the trail to the sheep's foreheads and along the ridge of the gray moraine to the Sredniy Kichkinekol glacier plateau. From the campsite — 3 hours. Through the plateau to the slopes of Kichkinekol pass. Ascend the snowy slope to the bergschrund — closer to the rocks of the Filtr peak. Crossing via a bridge — belay! And further along the snowy slope for 150 m up to 45° — belay! — exit to the pass. From the plateau to the pass — 2 hours. Descent from the pass straight down to the Zamok glacier plateau. Immediately to the left under the slopes of Kichkinekol peak along the snowy slopes and terraces approach the Chungur pass. Exit to the pass along the snowy and scree slopes, guided by the "Parus" rock. From Kichkinekol pass to Chungur — 1–1.5 hours.

Kirpich Peak — 3800 m

1. Ascent along the ridge from Dalar Pass — Category 1B difficulty
2. Ascent along the ridge from Mordy Pass — Category 3B difficulty
3. Ascent via the southeast wall — Category 5B difficulty

Route Description to the Summit

From the "Uzunkol" camp, along the right bank of the Mordy River to the old koshi. Then cross the bridge to the left bank and follow the path to the large gray moraine of the Dalar Glacier. Along the moraine crest to its middle part, via grassy slopes and scree (sharp descent), then along the path left-down to the terraces, and again onto the moraine (large boulders). At the end of the moraine, exit onto the glacier and, crossing it to the right, ascend the slopes (in teams!) to Dalar Pass. Cross the bergschrund under the pass via the bridge (belay!) and then ascend the snow to the pass. Beyond the pass (from the south) lies a rocky island — a bivouac site. From the camp, it takes 6–7 hours. From the bivouac, return to the pass and move left onto the snowy, partially steep ridge. Continue along the boundary between snow and rock to a large rocky ascent, and climb to the right onto the left part of the ridge and along it to the ice-snow col (belay!). From the col, ascend the steep snowy slope to the snowy ridge and along it to the summit. From the bivouac to the summit takes 4.5–5 hours. Descent from the summit to the bivouac via the ascent route takes 2.5 hours. When descending, pay attention to belaying when crossing the col — to the left are cornices, to the right is a snowy funnel!

Recommendations for Climbers

Kirpich Peak — 3800 m

Ascent route from the west via the snowy "necktie" 3A cat. diff. From the "Uzunkol" camp, follow the right bank of the Mordy River to the beginning of the Mordy glacier moraine - from here, follow the trail along the grassy slopes to a large green terrace. The bivouac site - "Mordy overnight stay" - is 3-3.5 hours from the camp. From the overnight stay, head right-up along the trail to the Mordy glacier plateau. Cross the plateau and approach the snowy slopes of the "necktie". It takes 45-50 minutes from the bivouac. From here, ascend the snowy slope to the 1st rocky island (in rope teams!). Bypass the island from either side, then ascend to the next black rocky island. Bypass it on the right via a snowy bridge over the bergschrund (Belay!). Ascend the snowy slope to a long rocky island. Climb the rocks to its upper part and again transition to a steep snow slope (45° Belay!). Follow the snow slope to a rocky wall located above - to the right of a small spur of a rocky ridge. Crossing the snowy slope to the wall takes 2.5-3 hours. Along the rocky wall (60°) traverse left to a small ledge - 50-55 m (Belay! Pitons!). From here, 40 m right-up (pitons!) and 40 m left slightly up to the base of a rocky chute. Follow the chute (Piton! 30 m) to its exit and then along easy rocks to the end of the wall - 3 ropes. Above the wall is a platform - here is a control point. From the platform, follow simple rocks and small snowfields to reach the snowy ridge. It takes 3-3.5 hours from the start of the rocky wall to reach the ridge. Follow the snowy ridge to the summit - 40-50 minutes. The descent from the summit via route 1B to the Dalar pass and return to "Mordy overnight stay" takes 3-4 hours. Departure time from the bivouac should be no later than 4:00 am.

Passport

I. Class of rock climbing ascents. 2. Western Caucasus, Uzunkol gorge, Gvandra region. 3. Pik Kirpich, via the "diamond" on the western wall, Manoilov's route, category 5B difficulty. 4. Sixth ascent. 5. Elevation gain: 670 m; route length 1370 m; sections: R6 — 250 m, R5 — 170 m, R4 — 400 m. Elevation gain of the "diamond" wall — 240 m, section lengths:

• R6 — 250 m,
• R5 — 90 m,
• R4 — 20 m.