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Traversing the peaks: KANNY-KAYA — CHUNUR-BASHI — CHUNUR-DZHAR from "Instruktorkiy" pass — Cat. 3A in both directions.
From "Uzbekol" alpine camp along the trail of Kichkinekol gorge to the stream flowing from the Sredniy Kichkinekol glacier and along the trail along the stream to a green terrace. "Green campsite". From here, up the trail to the sheep's foreheads and along the ridge of the gray moraine to the Sredniy Kichkinekol glacier plateau.
From the campsite — 3 hours.
Through the plateau to the slopes of Kichkinekol pass. Ascend the snowy slope to the bergschrund — closer to the rocks of the Filtr peak. Crossing via a bridge — belay! And further along the snowy slope for 150 m up to 45° — belay! — exit to the pass.
From the plateau to the pass — 2 hours.
Descent from the pass straight down to the Zamok glacier plateau. Immediately to the left under the slopes of Kichkinekol peak along the snowy slopes and terraces approach the Chungur pass. Exit to the pass along the snowy and scree slopes, guided by the "Parus" rock.
From Kichkinekol pass to Chungur — 1–1.5 hours.
From Chungur pass, descend 40 m down a steep snowy slope up to 45° and exit to the Chungur glacier plateau. Down the glacier on the right side in the medial moraine. From here, to the right and up along the scree slopes, exit to the "Instruktorkiy" pass.
From Chungur pass — 2 hours.
From the pass, to the right and up along the scree slope with a transition to a steep — up to 45° — 300-meter snowy slope — belay! After the snowy slope, transition to the broken rocks and along them to the Kanny-Kaya peak.
From "Instruktorkiy" pass to the peak — 2–2.5 hours.
Descent from the peak along the rocky ridge down — belay! to the first gendarme. Bypass it on the left along the way — pitons! and again exit to the ridge. All other small gendarmes are passed head-on — belay! The last gendarme "Glyba" is bypassed on the right by a complex traverse — pitons! and again exit to the ridge in its low part. From here, along the snowy ridge and through small rock outcrops, exit to the unnamed peak. Along the horizontal ridge, exit to the "konyok" slab — 30 m, belay! pitons! and further descent along the broken rocks down to the saddle to the Chungur-Bashi peak. Exit to the peak from the saddle along a steep snowy slope with rocky outcrops.
From Kanny-Kaya peak — 2.5 hours.
Descent down to the saddle to the Chungur-Dzhar peak, initially along the rocky ridge, and then along the broken rocks to the gendarmes. Bypass the gendarmes on the left — belay! Between the gendarmes — cornices!!! Behind the ridge with gendarmes, a rocky ascent — descent from it along the right part of the couloir to the shoulder of the next ascent on the ridge. Descent to it through a ridge to a ledge — pitons! — from here, along the left side of the left couloir, descent to the saddle — belay!
From the saddle, ascend along the ridge and along the rocks to a large ledge. Along it for 20 m — belay! — and ascend to the left and up for 10 m along the wall with an internal angle — pitons! to the next ledge. From here, along a 15 m internal angle — piton! — exit to a rocky shoulder. Along the ridge to a 5 m slab and traverse to the right — belay! — exit to the summit ridge. Along the ridge to its narrowest part and exit to the peak.
From Chungur-Bashi peak to Chungur-Dzhar peak — 3.5–4 hours.
From Chungur-Dzhar peak, descend along route 1B to Chungur pass and further along the approach route — return to Kichkinekol pass.
Recommendations for climbers
- Number of participants in the group — training detachment of climbers
- Initial bivouac — on Kichkinekol pass.
- Departure time from bivouac — no later than 3:00.
- Special equipment for a group of 4 people:
- main rope — 2 × 30 m.
- expendable rope — 4 × 5 m.
- rock pitons — 6 pcs.
- rock hammers — 2 pcs.
- carabiners — 8 pcs.
- crampons — 4 pairs: depending on conditions
- ice axes — 3–4 pcs.: for Kichkinekol pass slopes
First traverse completed in 1969 by "Uzbekol" alpine camp group consisting of:
- Korablin B. N. — leader
- Korshunov D. M. — participant
- Paukshnis R. A. — « —
- Shestipalov I. Ya. — « —
- Bregman E. E. — « —