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Climbing Report of the Ukrainian Sports Committee Team at the 4th USSR Alpine Climbing Championship (Technical Class) 1979

Climbing Details

1. Climbing Class: Technical
2. Climbing Area: Yaghnob Wall
3. Peak, its Height, and Climbing Route: 1st West Zamin-Karora, 4303 m, via the center of the left part of the wall.
4. Proposed Complexity Category: 6B.
5. Route Characteristics: height difference – 1353 m; route length – 1670 m; average steepness – 87°; section lengths: 3 – 200 m, 2 – 10 m, 4 – 250 m, 5 – 640 m, 6 – 570 m.
6. Number of Pitons: for belaying:

PASSPORT

1. Class of technical ascents
2. Pamir-Alay, Gissar Range, Yaghnob River area
3. Zamin-Karer, I-st Western via N-3 wall (Samoded Route)
4. Difficulty category — 6A
5. Height difference — 1180 m, route length — 1380 m Length of sections with 5-6 difficulty category — 1215 m, average steepness of the route — 70 degrees, average steepness of the wall part of the route — 71 degree
6. Pitons driven: | Rock | Nuts | Bolts | | :--: | :--: | :--: |

79. South-West Peak of Zamin Karor (Yaghnob Wall) via South-West Ridge, 4A category of complexity, fig. 41

From the base camp, traverse grassy and talus slopes under the north-west wall of the West Shoulder to reach the start of the route. Cross a stream bed and ascend a grassy ridge-cone that abuts the wall. The approach takes about an hour. The route begins to the left of a black, washed-out chimney. The rocks are of medium difficulty, with an average steepness of up to 70°, and a length of 250 m. The first wall leads to a large, gently sloping ledge with talus. Cross the ledge and ascend the second wall, which has more challenging sections than the first wall, to reach a second large ledge. From the ledge, a distinctive split is visible in the right base of the triangular "mirror" slab. Ascend 40 m up a not-so-obvious buttress to a noticeable ledge below. From the ledge, it's 35 m to the split. This section is challenging. Traverse 5 m under the split to the left onto a narrow ledge. Ascent to the split:

• Via the inner angle and chimney formed by the split and the main wall slab on the left. Features:
• The rocks are smoothed.
• The height of the split is 12 m.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — rock 2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Gissar Ridge 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — 103 Zamin-Karor, 3707 m, via the left part of the western wall's kar, V. Popov route 4. Difficulty category — 5B 5. Route characteristics: height difference 972 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 992 m, average steepness — 84°. 6. Pitons hammered: for belay/ETO rock — 143/35 ice — 0/0 bolt — 2/1

15. Crown of Siam, traverse of 4 peaks from the south, route 36 cat. diff., fig. 5

The beginning of the traverse is described in route 12. From the 1st peak of the Crown of Siam, descend north along a ledge. Then follow rocks with steepness up to 55° and length of 80–90 m with good protrusions, which are more expedient to descend using a sport climbing technique down to a col. From the col, traverse a gendarme on the left along a narrow talus ledge to a ridge of black crumbly rocks. Ascend along the ridge for 20 m to a large flat boulder. 10 m from the boulder, a steep couloir descends to the northwest, which is crossed in its upper part to exit onto a ledge that veers left from the couloir. At the end of the ledge, ascend a steep short groove to the ridge of the 2nd peak of the Crown of Siam. Then ascend easy slabs with a slight steepness to the summit. The descent from the summit begins along the ridge to the left via a crack into a niche, from where a 40 m rope descent leads to a snowpatch that descends to the col between the 2nd and 3rd peaks. The ascent to the 4th peak is described in route 13. Descend from the summit east along the ridge, and then along ledges to the left to the Nishon pass. From the pass, descend west on snow and then, bypassing the peaks of the Crown of Siam, return to the Four Pass and to the base camp. The traverse takes 8–9 hours.

16. Crown of Siam, traverse of 4 peaks from the north, route 36 cat. diff., fig. 5

The beginning of the traverse is described in route 14. Ascend to the 3rd peak of the Crown of Siam slightly to the right of the ridge via a snowy couloir. Descend from the summit along an easy rocky ridge to the col between the 3rd and 2nd peaks.

Description of the Traverse of the "Piramida" Peak

2B category of difficulty Departure from the base camp, located in the Avicenna cirque, to the middle moraine at 6 am. Ascent up the snowy plateau to the "Okno" pass, then left to the saddle between the 2nd and 3rd (farthest) gendarmes. Exit to the saddle on snow and rock ledges. Then we come out to a small gentle snowy plateau (on the east side of the ridge), cross it to the left and approach the ledges to the right of the visible crevice from the plateau. Further: – On the ledges to the left, we approach the beginning of a 10 m high wall with good protrusions and holds (protection to the right of the crevice through a protrusion). – Further ascent goes up a vertical (70°) crevice with a small number of holds (hook protection required), 30 m. – Continue ascent along the ridge upwards.

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: D-3 Pamir, North Shugnansky Ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: p. 5204 m via North face
4. Proposed category of complexity: 6
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1350 m length of sections 5–6 cat. diff. — 920 m average steepness — 70° Gordarak

St. Petersburg Alpinism Federation

Russian Alpinism Championship. High-Altitude Technical Class

Report

St. Petersburg Combined Team Krumkol Peak, 4688 m, via North Ridge Timofeev's Route, 1967, Category 6A

Ascent Passport

1. Region 2.5. From Kitlod Pass to Gezewcек Pass (north of the Main Caucasian Ridge)
2. Krumkol, 4688 m, via north ridge
3. Complexity Category — 6A;

Ascent to the Ular summit from Vorobьиный Pass — Cat. II

The ascent to the summit is made from the "Zelyonaya Polyana" bivouac, located below the Bivachnaya peak. From the camp, you should go up the stream flowing from the cirque of the Khamsai, Ular, Khyr's, and Kulay Ljovanon peaks, to the old lateral moraine of the Ular glacier. From the moraine, ascend the snowfield (25–30°) to the Ular plateau, from which you can reach Vorobьиный Pass. From the pass, ascend left up the scree, and then via easy broken rocks. Further, move along the broken ridge with simultaneous belay to the gap. Descent to the saddle in the gap is organized with a 15-meter rope. From the saddle, movement continues along the ridge with alternating belay, mainly through outcroppings. A sharp 10-meter rock ridge leads to the I gendarme. Bypass I and subsequent II gendarmes on the left via ledges, and ascend to a grassy area. The further ascent goes along the grassy slope of the ridge on the right part, and via heavily broken rocks of medium difficulty and easy ones. Belay is simultaneous. The descent from the summit is done via the Cat. 1B route down the couloir to the Ular glacier. When descending the snowfield, go right, as there is a bergschrund at the bottom. Then, from the glacier, descend along the right-bank moraine until you reach the trail, and down the valley to "Zelyonaya Polyana".

Recommendations for Climbers

1. Number of participants — 6–8 people
2. Initial bivouac — "Zelyonaya Polyana"

1. Climbing type — rock climbing.
2. Climbing area — Central Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range.
3. Peak: Volnaya Ispaniya (4200 m) via the NE edge.
4. Category 5B complexity (Subortovich route)
5. Route characteristics: Average steepness of the main wall section — 78°. Average steepness — 48°. Height difference — 480 m. Length of sections: Category difficulty section — 135 m.
6. Pitons hammered in: | rock | ice | bolt | chocks | |:----:|:---:|:------:|:-----:| | 18 + 11^X | 7 | 2^X | 19 |