Alpinism Federation of the Republic of Buryatia Ulan-Ude 2013

Ascent Report

Team of the Republic of Buryatia to the summit of Ak-su 5217 m via the Moshnikov route on the North Face couloir, 6B, 1984.

Climbing Passport

1. Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Range, Laylyak gorge, section number according to the classification table 5.4.2.
2. Summit "Ak-su (C)" 5217 m. Route via the couloir of the North wall, A. Moshnikov 1984.
3. Proposed complexity: 6B.
4. Nature of the route — mixed.

Report

• on the championship of alpine training and sports bases and KSP of the All-Union Council of the VDFSO of trade unions in mountaineering 1988
• on the peak Ak-Su Ser. (5217 m)
• on the center of the north wall, variant of Popov's route
• 2nd ascent
• team of ASB "Domбай"
• team coach - Grishchenko Valentin Anatolyevich
• team leader - Chaplynsky Igor Orestovich

Addresses

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — winter
2. Region — Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge, Ak-Su gorge
3. Object — Ak-Su peak
4. Complexity category — 6B (Chaplygin's '88)
5. Elevation gain — 1500 m, length — 1930 m. Length of sections with 6th category of difficulty — 455 m. Average steepness of the route — 68°
6. Pitons driven: | Rock | Bolt | Cams | Ice | | :--: | :--: | :--: | :--: | | 269 | 5 | 223 | 83 |

Peak Akksu (N.), 5217 m, center of N. face (Chaplynsky, 1988), Cat. 6B Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Laylyak gorge. 5.4.2.6

Ascent Passport

1. Technical class
2. Pamir-Alay, Laylyak gorge, Turkestan Range
3. Peak Akksu (N.) 5217 m via center of N. face (Chaplynsky, 1988)
4. Category 6B difficulty. 4th ascent.
5. Height difference — 1467 m. Distance — 1910 m. Distance of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 1350 m. Average steepness of the route (face) — 74°

RUSSIAN ALPINISM FEDERATION RUSSIAN CHAMPIONSHIP 2004, WINTER ASCENTS CLASS

Report

The combined team of the Krasnoyarsk Krai Sports Committee ascended Peak Ak-Su (C) 5217 m via the "mirrors" of the central part of the north face. The route is considered to be a first ascent with an estimated difficulty of 6B.

Ascent Details

1. Region — Pamir-Alay, Laylyak region, №5.4.2.
2. Peak — Ak-Su (C) 5217 m. Ascent via the "mirrors" of the central part of the north face.
3. Proposed difficulty — 6B, first ascent.
4. Route type — combined.
5. Route characteristics:

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — combined
2. Ascent area — "Pamiro-Alay Turkestansky" ridge
3. Peak, its height, route — Peak 5125 m via the northern counterfort of the Western ridge.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 5A.
5. Route characteristics:
   • Height difference: 1825 m
   • Length of sections with 5th difficulty category: 400 m
   • Average steepness of walls: 60°, up to 70°.
6. Pitons hammered:

35 pr. 537 i. 1.

27.0384

PASSPORT

1. CATEGORY — snow and ice.
2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Ak-Suu valley.
3. Peak 4660 m (Badygin) via the North face.
4. Presumed 4A category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Height difference 760 m; total length 1100 m; length of 4th category of difficulty sections 310 m.
6. Average steepness of the route — 45°.
7. Average steepness of the key section 75–80° with a length of 30 m.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical (4251–5250)
2. Ascent area: Turkestan Range, Aksu valley
3. Peak: p. 4660 (Badygin) via North slope
4. Category of complexity: 4A
5. Route character: snow-ice

• Height difference — 760 m
• Average steepness — 51°
• Section length:
  • R4 — 310 m

I. First Ascent Category 2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge, Ak-Su gorge. 3. Pik A. Blok, 5229 m, via Central Bastion. 4. Proposed category 6B, combined, first ascent. 5. Route elevation gain — 780 m. Route length — 945 m. Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 730 m. Average steepness of the route — 65°. Average steepness of the bastion wall — 75°. 6. Pitons driven:

Report

On the first ascent to Pik Tельмана (5970) via the Southwest ridge from the Bivachny glacier by the team of Ukr совет ДСО «СПАРТАК» consisting of:

• Komarov N.P. (team leader)
• Denisenko P.N.
• Ladnushkin V.M.
• Starodub O.V.
• Sulimovsky N.V. [^0]