1. Region: Altai. Severo-Chuyskiy ridge.
2. Peak: Glyaciolog – Turist traverse
3. Category: 2A category
4. Route type: rocky
5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain — 750 m Route length — 2400 m Average slope — 35°
6. Duration: 11 hours
7. Leader:

Passport

1. Altai, Severo-Chuysky Ridge, Karakabak gorge, 1.2
2. Peak Dvoynaya Severная via Beloe Plecho, height 3600 m (marked on the map M 1:50 000).
3. Proposed - 3B category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Route type - ice and snow.
5. Elevation gain: 600 m; length - 1800 m. Average slope of the route - 20-25°. Average slope of the main part of the route (up to Beloe Plecho) - 25-35°, length - 1200 m.
6. Number of pitons used on the route: ice screws - 25.
7. Team's travel time:
   • 6 h 20 min from the glacier to the summit;

PASSPORT

1. Altai, Severo-Chuysky Range, Aktru gorge.
2. DVS (3700 m) via the north-eastern ridge.
3. Category 3B proposed (first ascent)
4. Elevation gain 450 m, length 820 m.
5. Ice screws 23 pcs.
6. 14 hours from base camp to base camp.
7. No overnight stay necessary.
8. Shlekht A. CMS Nemtsev S. 1st sports category

M. 12.09.2000 № 115 ASCENT PASSPORT. №8,9

1. Altai, Aktru gorge, section 1.
2. V.V. DVS — Krylya Sovetov, via the southern couloir of the North-Eastern ridge, traverse.
3. Category 3B difficulty, first ascent.
4. The route is ice-snow.
5. Height difference 500 m, length 4000 m, average steepness of the main part 40°.
6. Pitons used: ice screws — 4.
7. Team's travel time 6 hours.

54 17

Ascent

To the peak of Zelinsky via the eastern counterfort of the northern ridge (approximately route 4A category of difficulty). Completed by a group of climbers from the Altai Regional Federation of Alpinism expedition. Group leader — A.A. Parshennikov. 2. V.S. Bunyaeva. 3. N.A. Kuznetsov. 4. L.I. Salmashkov. 1000 m, 50°, 18 rock pitches, 16 hours.

INTRODUCTION

Passport

1. Region — Altai, Shavlo gorge, section number according to KMGV — 1.2.
2. Peak — Kapitsa P.L. Peak (3720 m), according to CF S3
3. Proposed category 3A, first ascent.
4. Route type — combined.
5. Height difference of the route 700 m Route length M Length of sections: difficulty category M, difficulty category M

Passport

1. Region — Altai, Shavlo gorge, KMGV section number — 1.2.
2. Summit — Pik Kapitsy P.L. (3720 m), category 3B.
3. Proposed category — 3A, first ascent.
4. Route type — combined.
5. Height difference 700 m (by altimeter). Route length m. Length of sections with V category of difficulty m, VI category of difficulty m. Average slope: main part of the route — degrees, whole route — degrees.
6. Approach to the key point in crampons, belay through rock formations, 1 rock anchor hammered.

1.2.18

Description of the First Ascent of the Left Buttress of the Eastern Peak of Karagem-bash (August 7-11, 1965)

The Karagem-bash peak (3972 m) is located in the central ridge of the North-Chuya Mountains of the Altai. The massif of this peak, stretching in the latitudinal direction, bounds one of the largest glaciers of the Altai - the Maashey Glacier (10 km long, 15 km² in area) from the south. To the west of Karagem-bash, in the same ridge, stands the massif of the Maashey peak (4250 m), which is the highest point of the North-Chuya Alps. To the east, the ridge from the Karagem-bash peak goes to the Tammy peak, from where it turns north to the Maashey Pass. To the south from the peak descend numerous extensive glaciers, giving rise to the Karagem River. To the north (towards the Maashey Glacier), the Karagem-bash peak is cut off by a one-and-a-half-kilometer wall. From the ice cap of the peak to the north hang seracs, separated by steep rocky buttresses. The falls of these seracs occur along the lower sections of these buttresses, where they are less steep. The Left Buttress has a northern aspect and is lit by the sun in its lower part approximately from 10:00. To the right of the buttress pass routes of 5B category of difficulty along the northern walls:

• the eastern peak of Karagem-bash
• the western peak of Karagem-bash. The reconnaissance of the route and its study were conducted by the group during a separate trip to the upper reaches of the Maashey gorge. The path taken fully coincided with the planned one. The group considered that the route should be 5B category of difficulty, but it turned out to be more difficult due to the upper part, which was poorly visible from below.

ASCENT CERTIFICATE. №1

1. Altai, Aktru gorge, section 1.
2. Karatash peak, via the Western couloir from Pravyy Aktru glacier.
3. Proposed category 2B difficulty, first ascent.
4. The nature of the route is combined.
5. The route's height difference is 800 m, the route length is 2500 m, the average steepness of the main part is 45°, and the overall route is 25°.
6. Pitons hammered in: ice screws — 2.
7. Team's travel time — 5 hours.
8. Leader Khilko V. CMS Team members:

for the in-situ pitons, whose pulled-out remnants are weakly held. The жандарм must be crossed with careful lower belay! The жандарм ends abruptly on the ridge with a 3-meter wall. Descent to the ridge can be done in a sportsmanlike manner, by wrapping the rope around one of the firm in-situ pitons. Further on, the path to the third жандарм is straightforward and goes along easy rocky terrain. The last жандарм is a rock formation inclined to the east, 30–50 m in length. The жандарм is traversed from the left (as one ascends) — the only possible way to overcome it. One needs to descend along moderate rocks, 3 m, to a ledge, left and down in the direction of travel, and reach a narrow ledge (10 cm) about 2 meters long. The ledge ascends obliquely upwards, leading to a steep internal corner and ends abruptly. After the corner, the ledge continues. The internal corner is wide with smooth walls; there are very few cracks. The rocks are complex, and