PASSPORT
- Altai, Severo-Chuysky Range, Aktru gorge.
- DVS (3700 m) via the north-eastern ridge.
- Category 3B proposed (first ascent)
- Elevation gain 450 m, length 820 m.
- Ice screws 23 pcs.
- 14 hours from base camp to base camp.
- No overnight stay necessary.
- Shlekht A. CMS Nemtsev S. 1st sports category
- Coach Kazakov Yu.A. CMS, instructor 2nd category.
- Departure and return on February 25, 1995.
- Organization: year-round Aktru mountaineering training camp.
Photo #1 Mt. DVS via NE ridge. Shooting point #1. Camera: "Smena 8m", lens LOMO T-43 4/40.
Photo #2 Mt. DVS via NE ridge. Taken from Mt. Radiostov (main) #2. Camera: "Smena 8m", lens LOMO T-43 4/40.
Panorama taken from Mt. Radiostov (В) #3. Camera: "Smena 8m", lens LOMO T-43 4/40.
Route diagram via the north-eastern ridge
Mt. DVS, 3700 m
- R0: 120 m, 15–20°, 1
- R1: 120 m, 30–40°, 3+
- R2: 150 m, 20–25°, 2
- R3: 60 m, 35°, 3
- R4: 80 m, 30°, 2
- R5: 100 m, 30–35°, 3
- R6: 120 m, 45–50°, 3+
- R7: 80 m, 20°, 3
DVS via the north-eastern ridge
From the base camp near Aktru mountaineering training camp, follow the trail to the right branch of the Bolshoy Aktru glacier. Approach the serac and, keeping close to the rocks, bypass it on the right. After reaching the glacier and crossing the ice crevasses, approach the 2nd pillar of the NE ridge and ascend to the ridge crest via snow. Movement along the rocky ridge is simultaneous or alternating with protection through rock formations. The rocks are fragile, category 2-3 complexity. Movement is on the left side of the ridge.
The ridge has many snow-filled gaps, which require:
- piton protection
- or protection through ice axe.
Gradually, the ridge turns into an ice slope, with an icefall at the lower part. Further, there is a 100 m ice slope at 30-35°. Movement is alternating, protection through ice screws.
The ice slope leads to a rocky outcrop, and then to the summit slope.
The slope:
- icy, steepness 45-50°
- length 120 m
The ice slope abuts a snow cornice. After cutting through it, reach the summit dome and ascend to the summit via a 20° ice slope.
Descent to Fizkulturnik pass via 20-30° ice and from the pass via 120 m rappel to Pravy Aktru glacier. In the lower part, there is a bergschrund.
Ascent time: 14-16 hours.