Report

on the ascent to the summit of Dolomit Severny via the right part of the western wall, category 4A by the team led by Popov V.I.

I. Climbing Passport

	1. General Information
	Full Name, sports rank of the leader	Morozov A.E., CMS
	Full Name, sports rank of the participants	Baib G.A., Shironin D.S., 2nd sports rank
	Full Name of the coach	Popov V.I.
	2. Characteristics of the Climbing Object

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — rock climbing
2. Ascent area — West Caucasus, Gvandra region
3. Peak, route
   • Severný Dolomit — 3710 m via the center of the west wall bastion, approximately 5B category of difficulty — first ascent.
4. Route characteristics:
   • Elevation gain — 650 m.
   • Route length — 689 m.
   • Length of 5–6 category of difficulty sections — 424 m, including 270 m on the bastion itself.
   • Average steepness of the route — 70°, bastion — 82°.

Passport

1. Rock climbing category
2. Caucasus, Kichkinekol gorge
3. Dolomit Severny peak via the central bastion of the western wall
4. 5A category of difficulty
5. Height difference: 607 m, length — 698 m. Length of sections 5 — 248 m. Average steepness of main sections — 78°, including 5 — 80°.
6. Pitons driven: — rock: 5

To the Classification Commission of the Russian Alpine Federation.

Ascent Passport

1. Western Caucasus. Uzunkol. 2.3.
2. Dolomity (C) 3748 m, via the center of the bastion of the 3rd wall, through the "reddish corner".
3. Claimed - 5B category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Route character - rock climbing.
5. Total height difference of the route - 690 m, lower bastion - 280 m. Section lengths:

• 5B category of difficulty - 310 m
• 6B category of difficulty - 80 m

Report

On the first ascent to the summit Dolomit Centralny (3760 m) via the western wall edge, category 5A, made by the team of Krasnodar mountaineers August 2008

Contents

Letter to the Climbing Federation of Russia Comments on the route Ascent details General photo of the summit

Report

On the ascent to Dolomit Centralny peak via the route along the Western wall edge ("Мечта" or "Dream"), rock climbing, category 4B, by the "BARS" team from August 8, 2020 to August 8, 2020.

I. Climbing Report

	1. General Information
1.1	Full name, sports rank of the team leader	Dusheiko Alexander Sergeevich, 1st sports rank
1.2	Full name, sports rank of the participants	Belyankina Natalia Pavlovna, 2nd sports rank
1.3	Full name of the coach	Semiletkin Sergey Alekseevich, Master of Sports
1.4	Organization	Alpclub SPbSU "BARS"
	2. Characteristics of the Climbing Object

3. Ascent to South Dolomite via the west face — Cat. 3B

M91. Dolomit Yuzhny — Severny via the western wall ascent

(climbing route, 4A category of difficulty) The ascent to Dolomit Yuzhny via the western wall follows the M84 route. From the summit:

• Descend along the ridge towards Dolomit Maly.
• Bypass a small gendarme standing on a saddle in the ridge along the boundary between snow and rocks.
• From the saddle, move to a ledge on the left of the ridge and, bypassing the wall and a transverse ridge behind it, descend via a scree couloir (falling rocks!) and a short wall into a pass.
• From here, follow a straightforward ridge to reach Dolomit Maly.

The Zamok from the Burevestnik Pass, combined, 4A

Route Description:

From the bivouac in the green "pocket" (left of the exit of the "ram's foreheads"), ascend to the large step. From it, along the ridge of the huge gray moraine, reach the plateau of the Sredniy Kichkinekol glacier. From the plateau, via a snowy slope with a bergschrund (cross either on the bridge or under the slopes of Filtr or Kichkinekol), and above it — up a steep 150-meter snow-ice slope and short scree — ascend to the Kichkinekol pass. From the bivouac — 5 hours. From the pass, descend to the plateau of the Zamok glacier along simple snowy slopes. Along the snowy fields under the walls of the Filtr peak, proceed in the direction of the Burevestnik pass between the Filtr and Zamok peaks. Up a snowy couloir (45°), along its right side, and higher — up an icy groove, overcoming the randkluft, reach the rocks. Along them, sometimes exiting onto the snowy part of the slope, ascend to the Burevestnik pass. Here is a convenient bivouac. From the Kichkinekol pass — 2.5 hours. From the bivouac — along the snowy ridge of Zamok, bypassing the overhanging rocks like a gendarme on the right, along the boundary of snow and rocks, and further along the stepped rocks, slabs, and small snowfields, reach below the black gendarme R3. Bypass it on the right along the boundary of snow and rocks. Then, along the ledges and a vertical 40-meter internal corner R5, ascend to the top of the gendarme. Here is a bivouac site. From the Burevestnik pass — 3.5 hours. From the sites on the gendarme, along the left side of the snowy ridge (on the right — cornices!), approach the gendarme R8. Bypass it on the left along stepped rocks, then "ram's foreheads" and a steep snowy couloir, up which — to the right — to a large horizontal slab. From the slab, along a snowy, местами osypnoy, slope and ruined rocks, reach the Western summit (stones!). From the black gendarme — 3–4 hours.

The summit of Dzhailyk has a 4B category of difficulty, the nature of the route is combined. The summit of Dzhailyk is located on the sixth north-western Adyr spur. To the east of Dzhailyk (in the eastern branch) lies the summit of Cheget-bashi, to the south lies the summit of Kichkidar, and to the west lies the summit of Tyu. The summit of Dzhailyk is surrounded by glaciers: the eastern and western ones, as well as the northern Pnom-Su. Three ridges branch out from the summit of Dzhailyk:

• to the Donkina pass,
• the eastern one - towards the glacier of the summit Dzhailyk Kinchat,
• the western one - turning into a long rocky fence, separating the glaciers of the western Dzhailyk and the northern Pnom-Su. To the north-east, Dzhailyk drops with sheer walls and steep slopes, falling into the ridge between the massifs of Dzhailyk and Tyu-Tyu-S. The route begins with an overnight stay on the Black Rocks in their branch from the western ridge to Dzhailyk, in the form of a short, barely noticeable rocky ridge. From the overnight site, it goes towards the main western ridge. At the beginning, the path goes along broken rocks to the first "gendarmes", which is bypassed on the left along a steep snow-ice slope. Above the "gendarmes" there is a snow shelf, then a simple rocky ridge of broken rocks begins. The length of this section of the ridge is 35-40 m. Having passed this ridge, they reach the second "gendarmes" with sheer walls to the north-west and east. This "gendarmes" is bypassed on the left along a snow-ice couloir. Having passed 35-40 m along the couloir, one should climb up a 5-meter sloping shelf, leading to a gentle slab. From the slab: