Up the icy edge of the couloir 60–70 m to the entrance to the lower edge of the inclined ice shelf running across the wall. On crampons straight up (10 m). Further exit to rocks with ice crust. The path along complex rocks (35 m) left-up (piton, wedges) to a shelf convenient for belay and changing the leader. Then 20 meters up snow and ice to the base of the chimney. The steep chimney has walls filled with ice at the bottom. 20 meters of complex Climbing leads to the expansion of the chimney under the overhanging five-meter icicles. From this place to the left along the inclined fragile rock shelf 40 m to the exit to the eastern slope of the summit. Here the whole group can gather. Further up 40 m along medium and complex rocks to the Eastern summit. The cairn is located on the Central summit. The path from the Eastern to the Central summit runs along the ridge connecting them and does not present any technical difficulty. From the bivouac on the shoulder to the summit — 9–10 hours. Descent along the ascent route to the expansion of the chimney under the icicles. Further down — 3 ropes belaying down to the intersection of the main couloir. From the left edge of the couloir — one rope belaying down to the base of the wall. Further — worse, descent along the ascent route. From the summit: 5–6 hours. A variant of descent from the shelf under the summit straight down is possible if there are 80 m ropes. Descent from the shoulder and return to the assault camp takes 5–6 hours.

FEDERATION OF ALPINISM OF BSSR № 4.2.33, 579, 3, 112.87

2012.37

Report

on the ascent to Maly Iskander peak (4520 m) via the North-West ridge. Cat. diff. - 4B. Leader - Alexander Mashkanov. Home address: 220134, Minsk, Yakubovsky st., 22, building 3, apt. 17. Team coach - Stanislav Shabunya. Home address: 220037, Minsk, 2nd Bagration lane, 19, apt. 48.

• base camp - five approaches - five returns

Dedicated to the 50th anniversary of alpinism development in Odessa PEAK 4810 (ODESSAN ALPINISTS), TURKESTAN RANGE FROM NORTH-WEST REPORT ON THE ASCENT BY RS "AVANGARD" TEAM, A/C "ODESSA" 1580 m, 2000 m, (Y–Yl) 980, 53°, 68/3 cm, 2/1 m, 83/3 cm, 20.49, 26 cm 8-10/7-86 Team Leader Sитник M.A. Coach Горбенко M.M. Старицкий P.S. — MS Серенков P.S. — MS Тодоров V.S. — CMS

Russian Mountaineering Championship

High-Altitude Technical Class

2021

Report

On the First Ascent

to the summit of ShaitanKhana (Kotin Peak) 4521 m via the route on the left inner corner of the western wall, 5B category of complexity, by the team from St. Petersburg, from July 31, 2021, to August 3, 2021. 2021

I. Climbing Passport

Gro­ma 25 cm. 2 mi­be­re:

• 800
• 1000
• 30
• 300
• 4000

10. 1000 res­se­mo­tseo, K. Akt­au­e 11, 12. 1125, 1125, 112. 112.85 r. Section R0–R1. Straight ridge 150 m. 40°. Section R1–R2. Ridge 300 m · 20°. Section R2–R3. 1st gendarme — key section. Two walls, through cracks and rocks 7–8 m., 80°. Total length of the section is 100 m., steepness 45°. 5 m. descent by

Report

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT DELONE B. VIA THE NE SLOPE, CATEGORY 4B ROUTE BY THE TEAM FROM NOVOSIBIRSK ON AUGUST 15, 2019.

I. Ascent Passport

v. Titova North Face

Passport

1. Snow and ice climb category.
2. Altai, Katunsky Ridge.
3. Supposed 3A category of complexity, first ascent.
4. Height difference 500 m, length 800 m.
5. Ice screws 8.
6. 9 hours of ascent from the camp below Boris Peak. Mokhova V.M. — 1st sports category

ALPINISM FEDERATION OF NOVOSIBIRSK REGION

Report

On the ascent of the team from Novosibirsk

to the summit of Kyzyl-Tash 3486 m via the northwest slope icefall. Presumably 4B category of difficulty. First ascent. Leader: Ivliev Andrey Vladimirovich Team members: Kulishova Alena Maratovna Pintusov Anton Nikolaevich Syutkin Andrey Leonidovich

Ascent Details

PASSPORT

1. Category. First traverse passage.
2. Altai, Severo-Chuysky Ridge, Karakabak gorge.
3. Surprise (N) — Surprise (S) traverse.
4. Proposed category of difficulty: 2B.
5. Elevation: Surprise (N) — 3060 m, Surprise (S) — 3070 m; elevation difference — 610 m; length — 1750 m.
6. Pitons. Not used.
7. Moving time: 9 hours from camp to camp.
8. Overnight stays. Not necessary.
9. Leader: Drakin A.V.

PASSPORT

I. Category of the first ascent. 2. Altai, South-Chuisky ridge, area of Sofiysky glacier. 3. v. B. Luzhetskogo from N ridge. 4. Category 3A first ascent is proposed. /Initial visual assessment of the route was 2A–2B/ 5. Height 3600 m, height difference 550 m, length 1100 m. 6. Pitons: 9 ice screws, 1 rock piton. 7. 14 hours of climbing time. 8. Overnight stays: not necessary. 9. Leader: Drakin Andrey Valentinovich CMS.