Ascent Log

1. Climbing category: rock climbing
2. Climbing area, ridge: Fann Mountains. Zeravshan Range.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Zierat, 3800 m, via the northeast edge
4. Route characteristics: height difference — 600 m length of sections with fifth category difficulty — none average steepness — 60°
5. Pitons used for protection: rock — 32

Mt. Maria, 5B, via North-Eastern Ridge (A. Vakhmenin's route, 78)

Ascent Passport

Ascent category — technical. Ascent area — Fann Mountains, Zarafshan Range. Peak, its height, ascent route — Mt. Maria, 4970 m, via north-eastern ridge, 5B category of complexity, 3rd ascent of the route. Route characteristics:

• Height difference — 1460 m
• Length of sections with 5–6 category of complexity — 1425 m
• Average steepness of the route — 60°
• Average steepness of the most complex sections — 80–90° Pitons driven: | Pitons driven | For belaying | ITO |

• Porshrum on Vetene (with pitch numbers)

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area — Zarafshan Range, Fann Mountains,
3. Summit — Timur, 3900 m, via the eastern ridge, from Zapadny Kitudak Pass, new route.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 3B.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 300 m; average slope — 45°; route — combined.
6. Pitons hammered in:
   • for belaying: rock — 12, chocks — 4, ice screws — 8.
   • For artificial climbing aids — none.
7. Duration of ascent — 9 hours.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Class — Rock Climbing 2. Ascent Region — Fann Mountains, northern ridge of the nodal peak Aurondag in the Zeravshan Range 3. Peak — Urech, height — 3400 m, route — via the northeast wall 4. Proposed Difficulty Category — 3B 5. Elevation Gain — 450 m, average steepness — 40° 6. Pitons Hammered: for belaying for creating artificial anchor points

Brief description of the route approach:

• From the base camp at Alaudin lakes, follow the trail to Mutnye lakes (3 hours).
• From the overnight stay at Mutnye lakes, ascend via the scree couloir (snowy at the beginning of summer), to the left of the Fagitor peak wall, to the level of large snow shelves - 20-30 minutes.

Map of the ascent area

700 m, 2/25, 45° slope, 29 cm, 10 hours. 9/11-797. 15. Sazanov +5 people (1B) Table of main characteristics of the ascent route

Brief explanation for the table

Ascent Passport 208

I. Ascent class — rock climbing. 2. Ascent area, ridge — Fan Mountains, Zarafshan Ridge. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. Khodzha-Ravat, 3600 m via W ridge, first ascent. 4. Proposed difficulty category — 2B. 5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 700 m, average steepness — 37 degrees, route length 1150 m. 6. Number of rock pitons hammered for belay — 7. 7. Number of climbing hours — 5 hours. 8. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants, and their qualification:

Chapdara. Northwest view. Fann Mountains are very popular among mountaineers. This is due to:

• stable weather
• beautiful nature
• relatively easy access to the climbing area From a sporting perspective, the area is characterized by a sufficient number of routes of any difficulty category: from 1 to 6. The routes are generally purely rock and require good rock climbing skills and suitable footwear. The five-thousander peaks of Chapdara and Bodkhona are particularly popular, with all routes having a complexity category of at least 5. The ascent to Chapdara is usually done from the base camp near the Alauddin lakes. When ascending via the right part of the NW wall:
• the path from the base camp to the overnight stay on the Chapdara glacier moraine takes 2–2.5 hours;
• from the overnight stay to the start of the route takes 30–40 minutes.

International Alpine Tourist Center "Vertical-Alaudin"

www.fanyvertical.ru

Chapdara - Bodkhona, 5B, traverse (V. Ashanin's route, 68)

Report

on the first ascent of the Chapdara - Bodkhona traverse with ascent to Chapdara via the north ridge and descent from Bodkhona to the Bodkhona saddle, Fan Mountains, Pamir-Alay

Chapdara Peak. North Ridge

2005–06 MATC "Vertical-Alaudin" All Rights Reserved

Ascent to Chapdara Peak (5197 m) via the north ridge

Energy. 4A. Via the Eastern Ridge.

Table of Contents

From the author:

• Passage log
• Route in UIAA symbols
• Approach description R0–R1. Start from the overnight stay on the Kaznok Pass — 7:00 R1–R2. At station R2 — 11:00 R2–R3 R3–R4