Central Pamir. Peak 5662 (50 years of the USSR Armed Forces) via the north ridge

MOS DSO "Zenit" Team

consisting of:

• Balakin A.V. — 2nd sports category — leader
• Volokonsky V.V. — 2nd sports category — member
• Kumandin A.G. — 2nd sports category — member
• Tyurin G.S. — 2nd sports category — member. Senior coach, Master of Sports of the USSR — P.I. Povarnin.

Geographical Location

1. Ascent Passport

1. Region: Yazglem Ridge (Central Pamir). Valley: Fedchenko Glacier Section number according to the 1999 classification table – 4.12
2. Peak name: Pik Revolyutsii. Route name: via the rib on the eastern edge of the northern wall.
3. Proposed – 5B category of complexity, first ascent.
4. Route type: combined
5. Route elevation gain: 1524 m (by altimeter) Route length: 3355 m.

Passport

1. High-altitude class.
2. Pamir, Yazgulemsky Range.
3. Peak Revolyutsii, 6974 m, via the NE wall from Fedchenko Glacier.
4. Difficulty category — 6B.
5. Height difference — 1675 m. Route length: 2425 m, wall section — 1114 m, sections of 5–6 difficulty level — 880 m, including 100 m of 6th difficulty level. Average steepness of the main (wall) part of the route — 63° (5300–6320 m), including 80° — 110 m, 85° — 60 m, 90° — 40 m.
6. Use of protection points: | Pitons | Placements | | :----------------------: | :-------: | :-------: | :-------: | | Rock | Bolt | Ice | |

Passport

1. High-altitude class.
2. Pamir, Yazgulyam Range, Yazgulyam-Dara valley.
3. Peak Revolyutsii, East summit (6930 m) via the South Ridge.
4. Difficulty category — 5A (estimated).
5. Height difference 1030 m, length — 2500 m. Length of sections with 5-6 difficulty category — 30 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 45°.
6. Pitons driven: rock 30/0 bolts 0/0

1. Climbing category: high-altitude technical.
2. Climbing area: South-Eastern Pamir, Yazgulem Ridge, Khovraz-Dara valley.
3. Summit: Pik Kholodnaya Stena (5959) via the right bastion of the north face.
4. Assumed category: 5B (first ascent).
5. Route characteristics:
   • combined route
   • total elevation gain: 1500 m
   • wall section elevation gain: 1100 m
   • ridge elevation gain: 400 m
   • total route length: 3770 m

Report

On the ascent of Tykhen-Ardyn peak (3192) via the "Gutter of the southeastern wall" route, category 4A, in winter by the team of the Irkutsk Alpine Section from 09.11.2021 to 09.11.2021.

I. Ascent Passport

X KIV /8

Irkutsk Regional Alpine Federation

Traverse of the peaks Druzhba — Arshan (Eastern Sayan)

Brief geographical description of the region

The peaks Druzhba and Arshan are located in the Tunkin Goltsy ridge, in the Eastern Sayan, in a lateral spur. The western slopes of the spur drop steeply into the gorge of the Kyngarga river. Tunkin Goltsy is the highest ridge in the Eastern Sayan, stretching latitudinally for 200 km. The highest point of the ridge reaches 3266 m above sea level in the upper reaches of the Ganga-Khairym river gorge. Overall, the ridge has sharp alpine forms with deep gorges and wide glacial cirques. For over 100 km from the Arshan resort in the east to the Shumak pass in the west, the ridge has many peaks of great interest to mountaineers. The forest boundary:

The summit of Bronenosets (about 2450 m) Tunkinskie Goltsy, Eastern Sayan The summit is located in the upper reaches of the Levaya Kyngarga River. The Kyngarga River gorge has already been explored for mountaineering. Routes ranging from 1B to 4B difficulty category have been laid out to the peaks of this area. One of the last uncharted peaks for climbers was the Bronenosets summit. The first ascent via the North (Central) ridge was made during the Irkutsk regional alpinade on May 10, 1976, by a group consisting of: (see general view) Alpinade leader MS - T. V. Trubnikova Detachment commander - V. P. Bryanskogo - 1st sports category. Participants:

• G. A. Moskalev - CMS
• A. S. Kodachikov - CMS
• V. P. Nikonov - 2nd sports category

Ascent Certificate for Goretz Zapadny 2461 m – Goretz Vostochny 2457 m, via the Western Couloir, traverse, category III complexity.

1. Eastern Sayan, Tunka Goltsy ridge, Serebryanoe valley (Vetryany region), section 6.1.2.
2. Traverse of peaks Goretz Zapadny 2461 m – Goretz Vostochny 2457 m, via the Western Couloir.
3. Proposed category III complexity, first ascent.
4. Route type — rocky terrain.
5. Height difference — 500 m, distance — 900 m, average slope — 20°.
6. Pitons hammered: rock and wired — 15 pcs.
7. Team's walking hours — 7 hours.
8. No overnight stays on the route.
9. Team members:

TRAVERSE DESCRIPTION:

v. BRIG – peak 9 May – North Tower v. TREHGLAVAYA. /EASTERN SAYAN/

• ANGARSK, 1970 – The peaks of the specified traverse are located in the Tunka Goltsy ridge in the Eastern Sayan, in a long lateral spur, which serves as a watershed of the BUGOTOY and KYNGARGA rivers.
• Tunka Goltsy is the highest ridge in the Eastern Sayan, stretching in a latitudinal direction.
• The highest point is 3266 m above sea level in the upper reaches of the GANGA-KHAIRY river.
• In general, the ridge has sharp alpine forms. For 100 km – from the Arshan resort in the east to the Shumak pass in the west – it has many peaks of great interest to mountaineers. The gorges are deep, covered with impassable taiga. The forest boundary on the southern slopes is 1880 m, on the northern ones – 1600–1700 m. The snow cover almost completely disappears by the end of summer. There is no glaciation. The peaks of the traverse BRIG – peak 9 May – TREHGLAVAYA are located on a horseshoe-shaped ridge. The nearest settlement is the Arshan resort, 225 km from Irkutsk.