Ascent Passport

1. Area 2.4, Caucasus, from Chiperazau Pass to Gumači peak, Ullukhurzuk gorge, southwestern spur of Mt. Elbrus.
2. Kyukyurtlyu (Kyukyurtlyu–Kolbashi) 4639 m, via the center of the Western wall.
3. Proposed category: 6B, first ascent.
4. Route type: rock.
5. Route elevation gain: 590 m, route length: 800 m, wall height: 470 m, wall section length: 515 m, section lengths by category: I - 150 m, II - 60 m, III - 70 m, IV - 80 m, V - 145 m (95 m on artificial anchors), VI - 390 m (all on artificial anchors); total artificial anchors: 390 m, difficulty: A1 - 35 m, A2 - 265 m, A3 - 90 m, average wall slope: 83°, overall route slope: 65°.
6. Anchors left on the route: total — 48 including:
   • rock anchors — 14

318. Leyrag via the North Face (combined route, L. Kensitsky, category 3B difficulty, fig. 32, 43). From the moraine (point 316) follow the Leyrag Glacier to the foot of the central part of Leyrag's North Face. From the glacier, cross the bergschrund and ascend an osypnoy (scree) couloir, then ascend easy snow-covered rocks of a ridge below the wall of the Lower Rock Belt. Climb a 15–20-meter wall of moderate difficulty (pitons) up to a slanting snowy terrace. Traverse the terrace (loose stones) rightwards to a rocky ridge. From it, climb up and right along the edge of ice and rocks.

319. Leyrag via the Western Ridge (combined route, Suprunov's category, beyond category, fig. 32, 43).

To the right of the Leyrag glacier (m. 316) upwards along the northern slopes of the Nameless Peak to the lowering in the Western ridge of Leyrag peak — Alpinist pass. Here, turn right and, crossing the bergschrund, ascend the steep snow-ice slope or, from the left, via the talus and easy rocks to the Alpinist pass. Bivouac. From Nakra settlement 5–7 hours. At the pass, turn left and move onto the rocks of the Western ridge of Leyrag peak. Via simple 200-meter rocks of the Western ridge, overcoming three small gendarmeries head-on (protection), reach a small plateau with a pond.

Report on the first ascent by the team of the multipurpose mountaineering club "FRILINE" from Essentuki to the summit of Lkha (Western) 2625 m

via the SW couloir of the slope. Presumably Category 1B difficulty. Team leader: Donskov Andrey Mikhailovich Coach: Motienko Nikolai Ilyich Essentuki 2017 Addresses: 357500, Stavropol Krai, Pyatigorsk, Sovetskaya St., 137, Motienko N. I. phone: +7-928-361-90-66, nik-motienko@mail.ru 357500, Stavropol Krai, Pyatigorsk, Mira St., 19, apt. 22, Donskov A. M. phone: +7-962-017-82-09, donskov91@mail.ru Coach: Motienko N. I.

Description

Ascent to Peak MNR-Northeast

Via the South Ridge (Category 3B difficulty)

From the bivouac on the green shoulder above the Kurmy Glacier, head towards the VTsPS pass until the first clearly visible couloir descending from Peak MNR-Northeast. Ascend 80 m along the scree of the couloir, sticking to the left (in the direction of travel) side, to a rock plug and:

• Traverse 40 m to the left along rock ledges and then medium-difficulty rocks to a ledge on the South Ridge;
• From the ledge, ascend 20 m up medium-difficulty rocks to under a 12-meter wall. The wall is climbed using difficult climbing with the application of an artificial point of support (piton-carabiner) in its middle part. Then:
• Ascend 30 m along difficult rocks, sticking to the left side of the ridge, to approach a 6-meter chimney;

Ascent Passport

Ascent Category — Rock Climbing

ASCENT AREA — CENTRAL CAUCASUS, PRIELBRUSIE, MONGOLIAN PEOPLE'S REPUBLIC PEAK NORTH-EAST via the South Ridge. Estimated category: 3B. Route characteristics: height difference — 530 m, average steepness — 45°, section lengths: I — 70 m, II — 150 m, III — 440 m, IV — 60 m. Pitons hammered on the route: for belay, for creating intermediate belay points: rock — 17, ice — , bolted — . Travel time — 8 hours. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics: none. Names and patronyms of the leader and participants: OSIPOV OLEG FYODOROVICH — CMS, leader; SALAZKO MIKHAIL NIKOLAEVICH — 1st category, participant; LAVROV NIKOLAI VLADIMIROVICH — 2nd category, observer; SNEZHKO YURIY VASIL'EVICH — 3rd category, observer. Team coach: Head of the training department at Adyl-su tourist center, senior instructor, Master of Sports of the USSR KUSSEL-MOROZ N.A. The ascent was made on August 14, 1978.

1st day. From the "Phelda" camp, the path goes along the right orographic slope of Adyl-su to the "Jan-tugan" camp along the road and further along the trail to the old camp approximately a kilometer from the Jan-tugan tourist center. Then the trail turns left and goes along a steep grassy slope between two forest masses. After ascending the grassy slope between the two forest masses, we come out onto the scree and then along a faintly expressed ridge, we ascend to the bivouac site below the VCSPC pass. The journey to the overnight stay takes 4–5 hours. 2nd day. From the bivouac, we reach the VCSPC pass. We descend along the steep scree onto the Kurmы glacier. Along the glacier, we approach a wide couloir coming from the saw-toothed ridge between the peaks Andyrchi Main and M.N.R. South. Along the wide couloir,

Brief Description of the Route

From the Adyl-su alpine camp, descend along the road to the confluence of the Kuriu River and the Baksan River. Then, ascend into the Kuriu gorge to the left (in the direction of travel) of the waterfall. Next, follow the trail to the cow shed on the moraine ridge. After passing the cow shed, proceed along the moraine to the tongue of the Kuriu glacier. Traverse the glacier, staying on the right-hand side, to the rocky shoulder below the peak MNR Severnaia. Set up a bivouac on the shoulder. The journey from the Baksan River takes 5-6 hours. From the shoulder, ascend along the glacier to a wide couloir between MNR Pikhnaya and MNR Tsentralnaya. Climb the couloir, bypassing an icy rocky outcrop on the left, and ascend 100 m to a col on a long ridge. From the col, ascend upwards and to the right along a pronounced internal angle for 60 m. Then, traverse 60 m to the right along ledges below overhanging "rusty" rocks. Continue upwards and to the left for 80 m along a wall and a chimney, exiting onto the southern ridge of the peak MNR Tsentralnaya. Ascend along the sharp ridge (the gandari can be bypassed on the left via ledges) and broken rocks to below the summit tower. Below the summit tower, descend 10 m to the left into a depression and ascend along an internal angle to the western ridge of the peak MNR Tsentralnaya. Continue along easy rocks and ledges on the ridge for 200 m to reach the summit of MNR Tsentralnaya. The journey from the initial bivouac takes 8-10 hours. Descend from the summit along the western ridge to a col between MNR Tsentralnaya and MNR Dro-Zapadnaya, and then down a wide couloir onto the Kuriu glacier plateau. Special equipment for 4 people:

1. Main rope 2 × 40 m.
2. Rock hammers — 2 pcs.
3. Carabiners — 8 pcs.
4. Rock pitons — 8 pcs.
5. Auxiliary cord — 5 m.

DESCRIPTION OF THE ASCENT TO PEAK MNR-SOUTH VIA THE EASTERN RIDGE (4B cat. diff.)

overnight stay on the Kurmy Glacier — ascend a wide scree couloir between the peaks Andyrchi and MNR-South to a standalone rocky "tooth". From it, right into an internal corner (60 meters of medium-difficulty rocks, steepness 60°), leading to the Eastern Ridge. Here, on a ledge, is the 1st control point. Further, bypassing the wall on the right, exit via easy rocks under a chimney. Then, up the right wall of the chimney, along a slab with a ledge, and несложным скалам — выход on a wide ledge (live rocks!). 40 meters from the first control point. From the ledge, left-upwards via easy rocks for 20 meters — exit under a 3-meter wall (steepness 70°). Straight up the wall — exit onto slab-like rocks leading to a saddle between a gendarme and the summit tower (40 meters). At the wall, in a crevice — 2nd control point. From here, complex climbing using artificial points of support (ladder, hook) exit left around the corner and transition to the South wall of the summit tower. Further up via complex rocks with a steepness of 70° to a small site (30 meters). From the site, straight up via steep (60°) rocks with good holds to a small ledge under an overhanging rusty wall (20 meters). The overhanging section is bypassed on the left via a wall with a slit (15 meters, 75°). Then up via an internal corner for 5 meters, traverse right, and further up to a small site (30 meters). From the site, up-right via very difficult rocks — exit onto the summit of peak MNR-South. 6–3 hours from overnight stay. Descent from the summit via route 2B cat. diff. Special equipment for 6 people: main rope 3×40 meters; expendable cordelette — 3 meters; rock hooks — 10 pieces (including 3 channel hooks); carabiners — 10 pieces; ladders — 2 pieces; rock hammers — 2 pieces.

P. MNR (South summit)

Fig. 57

1. Ascent to the peak Perednyaya Chotcha (3637 m) via the counterfort of the northern wall — category 4B difficulty (fig. 57)

From Dombay plain by car to the Severny shelter. From the Severny shelter:

• via a log across the Khokel river
• further along the trail on the left side of the Chotcha gorge to the snowy couloir under the northern wall of the Chotcha peak Ascent:
• up the middle of the couloir to its middle part
• then via the "ram's foreheads" and uncomplicated rocks