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319. Leyrag via the Western Ridge (combined route, Suprunov's category, beyond category, fig. 32, 43).

To the right of the Leyrag glacier (m. 316) upwards along the northern slopes of the Nameless Peak to the lowering in the Western ridge of

Leyrag peak — Alpinist pass. Here, turn right and, crossing the bergschrund, ascend the steep snow-ice slope or, from the left, via the talus and easy rocks to the Alpinist pass. Bivouac. From Nakra settlement 5–7 hours.

At the pass, turn left and move onto the rocks of the Western ridge of Leyrag peak.

Via simple 200-meter rocks of the Western ridge, overcoming three small gendarmeries head-on (protection), reach a small plateau with a pond.

From the pond:

  • Ascend 30–40 m via solid medium-difficulty rocks (pitons) to a small plateau.
  • Then 30–40 m via steep medium-difficulty rocks («loose» stones, protection).
  • Then, via a simple rocky, partially snow-covered (cornices) Western ridge with an ice rise, ascend to the summit of Leyrag.

From the Alpinist pass 5–6 hours.

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