Description
Ascent to Peak MNR-Northeast
Via the South Ridge (Category 3B difficulty)
From the bivouac on the green shoulder above the Kurmy Glacier, head towards the VTsPS pass until the first clearly visible couloir descending from Peak MNR-Northeast.
Ascend 80 m along the scree of the couloir, sticking to the left (in the direction of travel) side, to a rock plug and:
- Traverse 40 m to the left along rock ledges and then medium-difficulty rocks to a ledge on the South Ridge;
- From the ledge, ascend 20 m up medium-difficulty rocks to under a 12-meter wall.
The wall is climbed using difficult climbing with the application of an artificial point of support (piton-carabiner) in its middle part. Then:
- Ascend 30 m along difficult rocks, sticking to the left side of the ridge, to approach a 6-meter chimney;
- Exit the chimney to the left of a small gendarme to the second ledge on the South Ridge.
On the ledge (possible bivouac site) is the first control point. From the start of the route, it takes 3 hours.
From the ledge, ascend upwards and then left-upwards along difficult and medium-difficulty rocks for 70 m to under the second gendarme of the South Ridge. The gendarme is passed by a screw ascent on the right ("difficult climbing", "live" rocks) and then, sticking to the left side of the ridge, ascend 120 m along difficult and medium-difficulty rocks to exit under the 3rd large pointed gendarme, which concludes the clearly defined part of the South Ridge. The gendarme is bypassed on the left along very difficult rocks (key point of the route) with the application of a "pendulum" and two artificial points of support (piton-carabiner). Behind the gendarme is the second control point. Then, ascend along medium-difficulty rocks to the junction of the South and Southeast Ridges, and then along несложные rocks of the Southeast Ridge, to the left of a wide scree couloir, to exit to the pre-summit gendarme, which is bypassed on the left (behind the gendarme is a convenient ledge for one tent). The pre-summit 3.5 m wall is climbed head-on.
From the 1st control point, it takes 4–5 hours. Descent from the summit is via a Category 1B difficulty route.
Special Equipment for a Group of 6
- Main rope — 3 × 40 m
- Rock pitons — 10 pieces
- Carabiners — 8 pieces
- Hammers — 2 pieces
- Consumable cordelette — 2 m
Note
Water and snow.
Description compiled by the 22nd alpinist camp "Adyl-Su" CS DSO.
Climbing Participants
- Sokolov V.M. — leader
- Svetlichny V.V.
- Turaeva S.M.
- Khachaturyan R.V.
- Osipov O.F.
Route Diagram
MNR (Center) MNR (North) 3rd gendarme 2nd gendarme 1st gendarme 1st control point Rock plug Green shoulder Kurmy Glacier