DESCRIPTION OF THE ASCENT TO PEAK MNR-SOUTH VIA THE EASTERN RIDGE (4B cat. diff.)

overnight stay on the Kurmy Glacier — ascend a wide scree couloir between the peaks Andyrchi and MNR-South to a standalone rocky "tooth". From it, right into an internal corner (60 meters of medium-difficulty rocks, steepness 60°), leading to the Eastern Ridge. Here, on a ledge, is the 1st control point.

Further, bypassing the wall on the right, exit via easy rocks under a chimney. Then, up the right wall of the chimney, along a slab with a ledge, and несложным скалам — выход on a wide ledge (live rocks!). 40 meters from the first control point. From the ledge, left-upwards via easy rocks for 20 meters — exit under a 3-meter wall (steepness 70°). Straight up the wall — exit onto slab-like rocks leading to a saddle between a gendarme and the summit tower (40 meters). At the wall, in a crevice — 2nd control point.

From here, complex climbing using artificial points of support (ladder, hook) exit left around the corner and transition to the South wall of the summit tower. Further up via complex rocks with a steepness of 70° to a small site (30 meters). From the site, straight up via steep (60°) rocks with good holds to a small ledge under an overhanging rusty wall (20 meters). The overhanging section is bypassed on the left via a wall with a slit (15 meters, 75°). Then up via an internal corner for 5 meters, traverse right, and further up to a small site (30 meters). From the site, up-right via very difficult rocks — exit onto the summit of peak MNR-South. 6–3 hours from overnight stay. Descent from the summit via route 2B cat. diff. Special equipment for 6 people: main rope 3×40 meters; expendable cordelette — 3 meters; rock hooks — 10 pieces (including 3 channel hooks); carabiners — 10 pieces; ladders — 2 pieces; rock hammers — 2 pieces.

P. MNR (South summit)

Scheme of the Adyrchi-Kurmycha area.

Route description compiled by: E. Gorodetsky, A. Nagorsky.

PROTOCOL

Analysis of the ascent of a group of instructors from "Adyl-Su" tourist center to p. MNR-South via the Eastern Ridge (first ascent), approximately 4B cat. diff.

Present: head of training department, Master of Sports of the USSR Yu.D. Shilov, group leader A. Nagorsky, group members:

• B. Manshin
• V. Svitov
• E. Gorodetsky
• A. Slavin
• Yu. Kuvshinov.

Nagorsky: On July 5, after waiting out the bad weather, the group went up the Adyl-Su gorge to the VTsPS pass. They reached the pass at 19:00. They organized overnight stay on the Kurmy-auz Glacier under the Eastern Ridge of peak MNR-South.

They left the overnight stay on the next day, July 6, at 3:00, which was justified by the rocky nature of the route. On the route, all participants (rope teams: Nagorsky–Manshin, Slavin–Kuvshinov, Svitov–Gorodetsky) worked well, tactically and technically competently. Rope teams:

• Nagorsky – Manshin
• Slavin – Kuvshinov
• Svitov – Gorodetsky

Reached the summit at 13:30, descended to the Kurmy-auz Glacier by 15:30, and began descending along the glacier and further along the Kurmy gorge at 17:00. Due to the fact that the bridges across the river were washed away by rain, the group was unable to cross in daylight and decided to stop for the night in a tourist camp, and head to the camp in the morning.

The route is very good. The rocks are strong, dry. The upper part of the route is very steep, with very complex climbing. The complexity of the route should be assessed at not less than 4B cat. diff.

Descent from the route in a critical situation:

• Possible down to the 2nd control point
• After it — only through the summit

Participants' feedback:

• Slavin: "I believe that, considering the training nature of the ascent, the leader should have paid more attention to alternating rope teams. I liked the route very much; it can be recommended to sports groups as a training ascent before tackling a rocky route of 5B cat. diff."
• Manshin: "The route deserves to be assigned 4B cat. diff. The group leader and all participants showed themselves in the best light."
• Shilov: "I propose to acknowledge the leadership of the group leader and the participation of the members."

Secretary of the analysis July 7, 1975.