It seems logical to avoid these walls and go around them, even though the ice in the upper part is steep, because the rocks here are heavily destroyed and climbing them is not pleasant. After reaching the ridge, it is necessary to change into shoes with rubber soles, as trekking boots do not hold at all on the limestone rocks that make up the summit rocks. The first two ropes along the ridge pass through heavily destroyed rocks, with short walls in some places. We come to a 30-meter wall, which we climb through a crack in the middle part. The crack can be approached via an inclined rock-ice platform. After the crack, there is a platform, and on it, another rope of rocks leads to the beginning of the ice ridge running from the northeast to the summit dome. After climbing just over 5 ropes, it is necessary to change back into crampons and ice axes, as the route continues on ice to the summit. The lower part of the ice ridge is a system of muldas and vertical ice walls up to 4-6 m high, bounded on the left by rocks that drop down steeply to the southeast, and on the right by a steep (up to 60°) ice-snow slope of the pre-summit ridge. After 80 m, we reach a relatively gentle part of the ridge. Now there is also snow and ice on the left, with a mulda below. We ascend along this ridge, moving simultaneously, to the pre-summit plateau, and from there to the summit. The length of the upper part of the ridge is about 120 m. The pre-summit plateau is a wide rock bowl filled with thawed ice, with talus shelves on the left. It is possible to spend the night here. It takes 15-20 minutes to reach the summit from here. The descent from the summit is in the direction of the pass between the peaks Zindon and SOAN.

Energy. 4A. Via the Eastern Ridge.

Table of Contents

From the author:

• Passage log
• Route in UIAA symbols
• Approach description R0–R1. Start from the overnight stay on the Kaznok Pass — 7:00 R1–R2. At station R2 — 11:00 R2–R3 R3–R4

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent class — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area, its height, ascent route — Mt. YUBILEYNAYA, 3600 m, via the northern ridge.
3. Proposed difficulty category — 1B.
4. Route characteristics: height difference — 700 m, total route length — 900 m, average steepness — 35°.
5. Pitons hammered in: for belaying — 4 pcs.
6. Number of climbing hours — 6 hours.
7. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics: none.

descent on a rope with leaving a loop. Further descent along the couloir and osnam bypassing the gendarme Amna-Krun to the pass between the peaks Moskva and Sakharnaya Golova. From the pass, descent to the Akhbasoy glacier. The travel time from the saddle between the peaks and the gendarme to the Akhbasoy glacier is about 4–6 hours.

Recommendations

I. It's better to start the ascent up the snow-ice slope to the gendarme not later than 7:00–7:30 am, when the snow is not too soft. When ascending from the saddle to the summit, have:

• one pair of crampons
• non-frozen sneakers

The traverse goes right 1 cm with an exit to a heavily destroyed shelf. Along the shelf to the left with a crack in the inner corner. To the left is an overhanging wall. The entrance is along the right wall (12 m). Steepness 80° (3 hooks). We enter a sloping wet stone. Then we follow along the ridge of a snow patch with a steepness of 60° (20 m, one hook). We exit onto an inclined shelf with wet snow turned to ice. After the shelf, there is an inner corner with a crack (15–20 m, 5 hooks). Difficult climbing, few footholds (photo 4). After the corner, there is a shelf with good ledges for belay. It took 4 hours to overcome these sections. From the shelf with alternating belay, we exit onto the ridge. Along the ridge, we approach the "Ыандарum". We bypass it on the right along the way, along small shelves (50–60 m). Then, along a 20 m crack (60°), we exit again onto the ridge. Along the ridge with alternating belay, we approach the second "Ыандарum", which is overcome directly. The ascent is 25 m, rocks of medium difficulty, steepness 60–70° (2 hooks). Descent from the "Ыандарum" is 15 m. There follows a new wave of the ridge with a steepness of 70–75° (2 ropes, 2 hooks). Further along the snowy ridge, 4 ropes with alternating belay through an ice axe. Again, a rocky ridge, which leads to a heavily destroyed gully. Descent along the gully to a rocky ridge with a width of 4–5 m and a length of 10 m. Stesova, having fixed a rope, descends 20 m down, onto the pre-summit ridge. Traversing to the right, she exits onto a steeply rising pre-summit ridge. Climbing of medium difficulty with alternating belay, in some places simultaneous movement is possible. After 6 ropes, she exits onto the summit. Time 17:40, they dismantled the cairn. By the right of the first ascenders, they named the summit peak "Сибирский" (Sibirskiy). The descent is via the ascent route. At the key section, they had to leave two hooks with loops.

PASSPORT

1. Rock class
2. Pamir-Alai. Fann Mountains. Imat valley
3. "Stupenka" peak
4. Proposed 2B cat. first ascent
5. Height difference 250 m. Length of sections 3 cat. - 45 m 2 cat. - 250 m
6. 4 pitons driven, 10 chocks placed.
7. Duration - 2.5 hours
8. Team: Baykovsky Yu. V. MS

Report

on the first ascent of the Alpcamp group from Magnitogorsk to the peak 40-letiya Pobedy via the East Ridge

Magnitogorsk

2013

Leader of the first ascent in 2013: Malyshev Semen Yuryevich Coach: Igolkin Viktor Ivanovich, 455000, Magnitogorsk, Lenina ave., 37–23, e-mail: avare.ivi@gmail.com, ph. 8 909 093-65-21

Ascent Passport

1. Region: Pamir-Alai, Zeravshan Ridge (5.3.3)

A large snowy ascent. Further, I, 5–2 ropes along a 60–70° snowy slope with an exit left onto rocks. There is a bivouac site here. You can set up I–II tents, after roughly processing the thawing ice that creeps onto the rocks. From the bivouac on the Northeast buttress — 9–12 hours. Along the 30–35° snowy ridge — two ropes until exiting onto heavily destroyed simple rocks, leading through 30–40 m onto the ridge, which is a continuation of the Southeast buttress of the summit. Further movement along the ridge involves overcoming a small "ryzhyi mandar" head-on or bypassing it on the left with an exit in 40 m under a 30-meter wall. The wall is overcome via an internal corner with frozen rocks (rock pitons). The exit onto the wall on the right is less convenient due to cornices on the rocks. After overcoming the wall, a sharp rocky ridge exits under a large rectangular "mandari" rock. The "mandari" is bypassed on the right (I rope) with piton protection. Further movement (4.45 ropes) along the ridge with good monolithic rocks and cornices on the right until the pre-summit. The pre-summit plateau is convenient for an overnight stay. From the pre-summit to the summit, there are 100 m practically without any ascent (be cautious, with cornices on the right). The exit onto the summit, which is a large cornice, is along the visible line of rocks on the left in the direction of travel. The summit tour is arranged between two large monolithic rocks in the western part of the summit. Ascent time:

• From the bivouac site on the rocks under the southeast buttress — 5–7 hours.
• Descent from the summit via the ascent route — 12–14 hours.

The edge formation rests against a 40° snow-ice slope. After 8–10 m there is a large rock, where it is convenient to organize an insurance and hang a rope. Up to this point, starting from the triangular wall, it goes without a backpack. After a large rock, the ascent takes 10–15 minutes and follows a snow-ice slope with rocky inclusions to a gentle part of the edge. From here, along the ascending edge, which breaks off steeply to the north for about 200 m, it leads to a snowy shoulder under the summit. From it, along the snow-ice slope from the western side, there is an ascent to the summit of the peak. From under the triangular wall - 5 hours. The descent from the summit to the pass follows the ascent route, with the organization of 5 forty-meter "rappels" and takes 7 hours.

Up the icy edge of the couloir 60–70 m to the entrance to the lower edge of the inclined ice shelf running across the wall. On crampons straight up (10 m). Further exit to rocks with ice crust. The path along complex rocks (35 m) left-up (piton, wedges) to a shelf convenient for belay and changing the leader. Then 20 meters up snow and ice to the base of the chimney. The steep chimney has walls filled with ice at the bottom. 20 meters of complex Climbing leads to the expansion of the chimney under the overhanging five-meter icicles. From this place to the left along the inclined fragile rock shelf 40 m to the exit to the eastern slope of the summit. Here the whole group can gather. Further up 40 m along medium and complex rocks to the Eastern summit. The cairn is located on the Central summit. The path from the Eastern to the Central summit runs along the ridge connecting them and does not present any technical difficulty. From the bivouac on the shoulder to the summit — 9–10 hours. Descent along the ascent route to the expansion of the chimney under the icicles. Further down — 3 ropes belaying down to the intersection of the main couloir. From the left edge of the couloir — one rope belaying down to the base of the wall. Further — worse, descent along the ascent route. From the summit: 5–6 hours. A variant of descent from the shelf under the summit straight down is possible if there are 80 m ropes. Descent from the shoulder and return to the assault camp takes 5–6 hours.