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Route Description: З кф.
Ascent to the summit of Donchenta North (4082 m) via the Western Counterfort, complexity category 2A, rock route, height difference 900 m.
Ascent Passport
- Caucasus. Lateral Ridge, Tsariutdon gorge, section number in KMGV 2.8.
- Donchenty North (4082 m) via the Western counterfort.
- 2A category of difficulty, first ascent.
- Route character — rocky.
- Route height difference — 900 m. Total route length — about 1800 m. Average route steepness — 30°.
- Pitons driven: rocky — 6, ice — 2, placements — 2.
- Travel hours — 12; days — 1.
Route Description: левому кф. З стены и С гребня
Ascent record of climbing Zeygalan peak via the left counterfort of the western wall, rated as Category III (5B) route.
Climbing Passport
- Climbing area: North Caucasus, Midagrabin gorge
- Peak name — route name: ZEYGALAN (4244 m) — Left buttress of the western wall
- Proposed: 5B category of difficulty, first ascent
- Route type: combined
- Route height difference:
- Route length: 1300 m
- Length of sections with V category: 215 m
- Length of sections with VI category: 85 m
- Average steepness of the main part: 70°
Route Description: Ю гребню
Report on the first ascent of the South Peak of the Pik Mirotvorcev via the south ridge, category 2B, made by a group of climbers on August 14, 2012.
Report
on the first ascent of the Southern tower of the Mirrotvorcev Peak, 3411 m via the Southern ridge. Approximately — category 2B. Completed by a group of climbers from the Mountain Sports Federation of the Republic of South Ossetia on July 14, 2012, led by Tedeev Tamerlan Taimurazovich. The ascent is dedicated to:
- the 20th anniversary of the introduction of Peacekeeping Forces
- that stopped the war on the territory of the Republic of South Ossetia. Address: Republic of South Ossetia, Tskhinval, A. Dzhioev Avenue, 114, Tedeev_t@mail.ru +79284848861
Ascent Passport
- Caucasus, section number in the classifier 2.8:, upper reaches of the Cheselt-don river south of the Main Caucasian Ridge, between the Zekara-don gorge to the west and the Strikom gorge to the east
Route Description: ЮЗ стене
First ascent description of Tbau-khokh peak (2980 m) via South-West wall, grade 5A, in the Caucasus, Kurtatinsky gorge.
Ascent log.
- Ascent category: rock. 2.7.1
- Ascent area: 2,8; Caucasus: Kurtatinskoye gorge.
- Summit, route: Mt. Tbau-khokh (2980 m); via the Southwest wall.
- Estimated difficulty category: 5A category; first ascent.
- Route characteristics: height difference — 500 m; length — 1200 m. Section lengths: 6 — 50 m; 5 — 210 m; 3-4 — 330 m. Average slope: 40°; wall section: 60°.
- Pitons hammered: rock — 34; chocks — 4; ice screws — none.
- Number of climbing hours (days): 23 (2)
- Number of bivouacs: 1st — on approach; 2nd — on the wall; 3rd — on descent.
- Leader: Glazov A. P. – Master of Sports
Route Description: через карнизы ЮЗ стены
First ascent of the route, cat. 5B, via the cornices of the Southwest wall on Tbau North-West (2980 m) in the Skalisty Range.
Ascent Passport
- Rocky Ridge, section number 2.8 in the classification.
- Tbau N-W 2980 m, via cornices on the South-West wall.
- Proposed 5B category; first ascent.
- Route type: rock.
- Route height difference: 580 m (by altimeter and topographic map).
Route length: 950 m.
Section length:
- 5 category – 52 m.
- 6 category – 27 m.
Route Description: террасам З склона
Report on the ascent to the summit of Dashtsar via the 2A category difficulty route on the terraces of the West wall.
REPORT ON ASCENT TO DASHTSAR PEAK VIA THE TERRACES OF THE WEST WALL ROUTE, CATEGORY 2A COMPLEXITY. By the team of the Climbing Camps Management from June 2, 2024, to June 2, 2024.
I. Ascent Passport
| Item No. | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full Name, sports rank of the leader | Chikin Artem Borisovich, Candidate for Master of Sports |
| 1.2 | Full Name, sports rank of participants | Gumashvili V.L., 3rd sports rank; Barsukova E.A., 3rd sports rank. |
| 1.3 | Full Name of the coach | Yakovenko Alexander Nikolaevich, Master of Sports |
| 1.4 | Organization | Climbing Camps Management |
| 2. Characteristics of the Ascent Object |
Route Description: с юга по В гребню
Description of the ascent route to the summit of Girech Zapadnaya (2971 m) via the left gully of the 10th wall, category 3A difficulty, with a detailed description of the path and route characteristics.
| 1. Climbing category | — rock climbing |
|---|---|
| 2. Climbing area | — East Caucasus, Scaly Ridge, watershed of Armhi and Assa rivers, Chechen-Ingush ASSR. |
| 3. Summit, its height, climbing route | — Girech Zapadnaya (2971 m) via the left couloir of the S wall and the SE ridge. |
| 4. Route characteristics | |
| a/ height difference on the route | — 720 m. |
| b/ route length | — 2865 m. |
| c/ average steepness of the route | — 42° |
| 5. Pitons used for belaying (for creating ITO): | |
| rock pitons | — 7 pcs. |
Route Description: З гребню
First ascent description of Jarlam South-East peak via the Western ridge, category 2B, with route details and technical specifics.
Ascent Passport
- Area: 2.9, from Kreстовый Pass to Shaviklde peak
- Peak, route: Jarlam South-East via Western ridge, 3155 m (first ascent)
- Complexity category: 2B cat. sl.
- Route characteristics: rock Height difference of the route: 240 m Route length: 810 m Section lengths:
- 2 — 530 m
- 3 — 80 m
Route Description: З гребню
Ascent to the summit Jarlam South-East (3155 m) via the Western ridge, complexity category 2B, height difference 530 m, length 980 m.
Ascent Record
- Region: CAUCASUS
- Area: 2.5.1. From Kitlod Pass to Gezivtsvek Pass (south of the Main Caucasian Range)
- Peak: Dzharlam, Southeast
- Height: 3155 (3180 according to GPS)
- Route: via the Western Ridge
- Category of difficulty: 2B
- Route characteristics: rock climbing Elevation gain of the route: 530 m. Route length: 980 m
- Equipment used on the route:
Route Description: В гребню
Ascent to Janlyk peak (4A cat. grade) via the Eastern ridge, detailed route description, required equipment, and possible bivouac locations.
Jailyk via the East Ridge (I. Yukhin's route, cat. 4A)
The path from the Adylsu alpine camp (group of 4–8 people) through the Tyutyusu gorge to the initial bivouac at the upper part of the left-bank moraine of the Tyutyusu glacier is described in routes 184 and 188. From the initial bivouac on the moraine:
- Turn left and exit onto the snowy West counterfort descending from the East Ridge of Jailyk peak into the Tyutyusu gorge.
- Ascend the snowy, gently sloping ridge of the counterfort with several steep rises.
- Then move to the snow-ice slope (avalanches!) and continue ascending to the East Ridge of Jailyk peak. On the East Ridge:
- Turn right here.
- Move along simple and moderately difficult rocks, partly along a narrow snowy ridge (snowcornices!), and reach the base of the rocky ascent of the East gendarme.
- Overcome the gendarme directly via steep, crumbling, moderately difficult rocks of the ridge.