Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — technical ascent
2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alai, Gissar Ridge
3. Peak — proposed name — CHELYABINSK peak 4363.6 m
4. Ascent route — via the western edge Proposed category — 4B
5. Height difference — 700 m Length of complex sections — 170 m. Average steepness — 40°
6. Pitons driven: safety — 50, for creating ITO — 0, rock — -50, ice — 0, bolt — 0

9. Helmet via the western wall to the northern ridge, route 46 cat. dif., Fig. 4.

From the base camp, ascend along the Siam at first along the moraines, and then, turning right, reach the Big Siam glacier. Leaving the peaks to the right:

• Medvezhiy Zamok (Bear Castle)
• Shlem (Helmet) approach the western wall of the northern ridge of the peak. The approach from the base camp to the peak takes 4 hours. There are camping sites on the moraine. The characteristic color of the wall of the northern ridge of the peak is yellow-green. Three inclined veins run along the wall from top right to left:
• The right vein leads to the highest visible part of the wall from below,
• The middle vein is in the center,
• The left vein leads to the rocky gate on the ridge.

Peak ALAUDIN, via the West Ridge (P.Karpov's route, category 3B)

From the Alaudin pass, follow the trail to the saddle between the peaks Borzov za Mir and Alaudin. From the saddle, traverse about 50 m of scree to a platform, which marks the start of the route. Then, proceed along the ridge for about 2 rope lengths of easy climbing with protection on protrusions, leading to the crux — 40 m of difficult climbing, initially on an inclined shelf and then on a vertical slot with an overhanging lower section. Above the crux, there's a good platform with a control cairn. Continue mainly on the left side of the ridge. Descent is via route 2A category. The entrance to the descent couloir is located before reaching a large gendarme and is marked by a cairn under a small pointed gendarme. In the middle section of the descent, there's a 40 m rappel with a sling on two piton anchors.

PEAK ALAUDIN VIA THE WEST RIDGE, CATEGORY

© 2005–2006 MATC «Vertikal-Alaudin» Descent from the summit via route 2A category.

138

3 А pro5~499 0511/x-807

Ascent Log

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Peak 4200, 4200 m, via the northwestern ridge
4. Proposed difficulty category: 3A
5. Route characteristics: height difference – 900 m, average slope – 45°
6. Pitons driven: for belay —; for creating RPE: rock — 6, ice — –, bolt — –.
7. Number of climbing hours: 8 hours

Ascent Record

1. Ascent type: rock climbing.
2. Ascent area: Fann Mountains, Pamir-Alay 5.3.
3. Peak: Diamar, height 3300 m, route via the left part of the NE wall.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5A.
5. Route characteristics: a. height difference 800 m. b. average steepness 70°. c. section lengths:

Ascent Log

1. Climbing category: rock climbing
2. Climbing area, ridge: Fann Mountains. Zeravshan Range.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Zierat, 3800 m, via the northeast edge
4. Route characteristics: height difference — 600 m length of sections with fifth category difficulty — none average steepness — 60°
5. Pitons used for protection: rock — 32

Mt. Maria, 5B, via North-Eastern Ridge (A. Vakhmenin's route, 78)

Ascent Passport

Ascent category — technical. Ascent area — Fann Mountains, Zarafshan Range. Peak, its height, ascent route — Mt. Maria, 4970 m, via north-eastern ridge, 5B category of complexity, 3rd ascent of the route. Route characteristics:

• Height difference — 1460 m
• Length of sections with 5–6 category of complexity — 1425 m
• Average steepness of the route — 60°
• Average steepness of the most complex sections — 80–90° Pitons driven: | Pitons driven | For belaying | ITO |

• Porshrum on Vetene (with pitch numbers)

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area — Zarafshan Range, Fann Mountains,
3. Summit — Timur, 3900 m, via the eastern ridge, from Zapadny Kitudak Pass, new route.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 3B.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 300 m; average slope — 45°; route — combined.
6. Pitons hammered in:
   • for belaying: rock — 12, chocks — 4, ice screws — 8.
   • For artificial climbing aids — none.
7. Duration of ascent — 9 hours.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Class — Rock Climbing 2. Ascent Region — Fann Mountains, northern ridge of the nodal peak Aurondag in the Zeravshan Range 3. Peak — Urech, height — 3400 m, route — via the northeast wall 4. Proposed Difficulty Category — 3B 5. Elevation Gain — 450 m, average steepness — 40° 6. Pitons Hammered: for belaying for creating artificial anchor points