Ascent Passport

1. Region: Заалайский Ала-Тоо Valley: Кызылсу. Section number according to the 1999 classification table: 4.4
2. Peak name: п. Курумды, route name: по северному гребню
3. Proposed category: 5B cat. sl., first ascent.
4. Route type: combined.
5. Route elevation gain: 2600 m (by altimeter) Route length: 7700 m. Section length:
   • V cat. sl. — — m.

Description

First ascent to the summit 5150 m (peak Metallurgov Urala) via the central eastern buttress Peak Metallurgov Urala is located in the western part of the Trans-Alai range in a spur running towards Peak Sverdlova, between the summits:

• Akk-Too (to the south)
• p. Nikolaya Kuznetsova (to the north) The ascent was made from the intermediate base camp at 3800 m of the Sverdlovsk jubilee expedition. The intermediate camp "3800" is situated on an old moraine, covered with grass, near a small lake in the upper reaches of the Kок-kьшк valley. The path from the base camp "3800" goes along the left (orographic) bank of the Kоккьшк river across

Passport

Route to Petrovsky Peak via the Western Horseshoe (Category 3B)

1. Type of ascent — technical.
2. Region — spur of the Trans-Alai Range north of Lenin Peak.
3. Summit — Petrovsky Peak, 4700 m.
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 3B.
5. Route characteristics — total elevation gain about 500 m, average steepness about 15°.
6. Number of pitons hammered in for protection — 13 pieces.
7. Number of walking hours — 14 hours.
8. Number of nights spent — one.

DESCRIPTION OF THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE HEIGHT OF 4670 M VIA THE NORTHEAST RIDGE (FIRST ASCENT) 98 The 4670 m peak is located on the northeastern ridge of Pik Sverdlova. Pik Sverdlova is situated east of the Ters-Agar pass in the ridge branching off the main Zaalaysky range to the north. Approach to the route:

• From the settlement Daraut-Kurgan
• In a southeastern direction
• At a distance of 35–40 km to the Tane-Su river gorge

Peak Beleuli 6065 m. Via the north face and east ridge — second ascent

(Route by MAI (MAI) tourist club, led by A. Lebedev, cat. 4B) Peak Beleuli (6065) was one of the last unclimbed "six-thousander" peaks in the Pamir region until 2001. It is the highest point in the Zulumart-Saukdara mountain node. Located in the Saukdara ridge. It has two peaks:

• The eastern peak is about 5950 m, with a rock wall dropping to the east;
• The higher western peak is 6065 m. Between the peaks lies a plateau, from which a steep ice fall descends to the north. (From A. Lebedev's report.) View of Peak Beleuli and the ascent route from the North Zulumart glacier.

Contents

1. Route Passport — 4

ASCENT REPORT

I. Technical Class. 2. South-West Pamir, Ishkashimsky ridge. 3. Peak Kiik-Bal-Khana, height 5100 m, combined route, via South ridge. 4. Proposed complexity category — 3B. pr. 560, p. 3 18/3–86 5. Height difference 500 m, average steepness 40°. 6. Rock pitons driven 10/0, chocks 4/0, no ice or bolt pitons. 7. Climbing hours — 8. 8. No overnight stays. 9. Leader: Ponomarev D.S., 1st sports category

International Mountaineering Club 2003–2004

First Ascent Reports

in the area of Lake Sarez in the Pamirs to the peaks of the Rushan and Muzkol ranges

International Mountaineering Club

Address: Moscow, Luzhnetskaya Embankment, 8, Russian Olympic Committee, office 330 Phone/Fax (095) 725-45-28, e-mail: mak@roc.ru, http://www.clubalp.ru

Club President

Valery Vladimirovich Kuzin — First Vice-President of the Russian Olympic Committee

Head Coach

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — combined
2. Ascent area — Pamir, Muzkolsky Ridge
3. Peaks: 5860–5980 along the E ridge
4. Proposed category of complexity — 5A, first ascent
5. Height difference — 885 m Of which:

• along the E ridge to the saddle — 545 m
• along the S ridge of p. 5860 — 110 m
• along the N ridge to p. 5980 — 230 m

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Climbing Route Description

To Peak "5600" 5692 m, via the East Ridge, 26 km trail (approximately) The first ascent was made by a team of the Armed Forces led by V. Nikonov on August 16, 1976. Team members:

• Nikonov V.V. — 1st sports category, leader
• Bondarenko B.E. — 1st sports category, participant
• Gorban A.I. — 1st sports category, participant
• Baev A.K. — Candidate for Master of Sports, participant
• Gaas A.V. — Master of Sports, coach

Report on the Ascent of the National Team of Karachay-Cherkessia to the Summit of Belalakaya 3861 m

via the South-Eastern Lap. Presumably 5A category of difficulty. First Ascent. Semenov M. A. — team leader Tkachenko V. I. — 1st sports category Report compiled in November 2019

2. Caucasus

2.2. From Marukh Pass to Nakhar Pass

Climbing Participants

1. Team Leader — Semenov Mikhail Alexandrovich. Candidate for Master of Sports. Coach — Shipilov V. A.