International Mountaineering Club 2003–2004

First Ascent Reports

in the area of Lake Sarez in the Pamirs

to the peaks of the Rushan and Muzkol ranges

International Mountaineering Club

Address: Moscow, Luzhnetskaya Embankment, 8, Russian Olympic Committee, office 330 Phone/Fax (095) 725-45-28, e-mail: mak@roc.ru, http://www.clubalp.ru↗

Club President

Valery Vladimirovich Kuzin — First Vice-President of the Russian Olympic Committee

Head Coach

Yuri Viktorovich Baykovsky — Honored Coach of the Republic of Tajikistan

Table of Contents

I. Peak Table ... 4 page

II. Overview of the Sarez Lake Area a. Map of the Republic of Tajikistan ... 5 page b. Description of the Area ... 6 page c. Road to Sarez Lake ... 8 page d. Map of Sarez Lake ... 9 page

III. Reports on Ascents to Peaks in the "Birombnd" Area a. Map-Scheme and Description of the Area ... 11 page

1. "Olimp-2004" (5674 m) ... 12 page
2. "Poytakt" (5601 m) ... 21 page
3. "International Mountaineering Club" (5337 m) ... 27 page
4. "Overviewnaya" (4424 m) ... 36 page

IV. Reports on Ascents to Peaks in the "Shadau" Area a. Map-Scheme and Description of the Area ... 44 page

1. "10 лет МЧС" (5250 m) ... 45 page
2. "USOY" (5120 m) ... 53 page
3. "Spasatelei" (5050 m) ... 60 page
4. "Gornykh gidov" (5080 m) ... 69 page

Map of the Republic of Tajikistan

(Route from Dushanbe to the Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region, to the Sarez Lake area)

Description of the Sarez Lake Mountain Area

Road

To get to Sarez Lake from Dushanbe:

• By helicopter from Dushanbe airport to the helicopter pad at the Usoi dam;
• By car. Drive to the regional center Rushan. The road to the turnoff to Rogun has asphalt coverage. Further, the asphalt is practically absent, and the coverage is heavily damaged. From Rushan, it's 130 km to the village of Barchadiv — a difficult road. Several rivers need to be crossed. With high water, the road can be flooded and washed away in places. The journey takes 2–3 days.

From the village of Barchadiv, it's a 20 km hike. It takes about the same time up and down — from 6 to 10 hours. At the beginning (1 hour) and at the end (2 hours) of the path, there is no water. In the middle part, the trail runs along the Murhab River. The most challenging section with a 700 m elevation gain is a long climb to the Usoi dam.

Features of the Area

Due to the possibility of a Usoi dam breach, the Sarez Lake area is a strategic object and is closed to tourism. To visit, in addition to a border zone permit in the Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region, a special permit is required. As a rule, sports and tourist groups are not allowed to visit the Usoi dam area.

The area has more than three dozen peaks with heights of 4000–5900 m. The area is interesting for mountaineering ascents. Climbs can be made on rock, combined, and ice routes of 2–5 cat. diff.

A significant challenge is the lack of trails along the coastline. It's best to reach various gorges in the area by boat, which is available to the МЧС staff.

Approaches are characterized by a significant elevation gain.

Biromband Area

Located on the right bank of Sarez Lake. The ridge stretches along the lake for 35 km and continues north to the village of Barchadiv. The area includes 10–15 peaks. The highest peak is "Radio Lyubitelei" (5857 m), where a radio repeater was installed in 2002 by climbers from Dushanbe (V. Khabibulin, A. Maskaev, I. Karatyschev). No other mountaineering ascents were made in the area before 2003.

Ascents can be made from the southwest, from the lake, and from the northeast, from the gorge.

There is practically no water in the area during the summer. All streams emerge near the lake shore. On the southwestern slopes, there is no snow in July–August. On the northeastern slopes, there are glaciers and snow in the upper reaches.

The International Mountaineering Club team made all their ascents from the northeast.

From the МЧС house, take a boat (10 km) around the right-bank landslide slope and enter the gorge. Walk up the gorge along the middle talus for 5 hours. Establish a base camp at an altitude of 4700 m. From here, ascents are made to the peaks Olimp, Poytakt, and MAK. When ascending Olimp, a storm camp can be set up at an altitude of 5000–5100 m up the gorge.

In the area, the rock is heavily destroyed.

Shadau Mountain Area

Named after the Shadau River and Lake. The area has water everywhere. There is significant glaciation on the northern slopes. There are challenging routes.

From the МЧС house, take a boat (6 km) across Lake Shadau to the mouth of the river. Walk along the right bank of the river (in the direction of travel) on a trail for 3 hours. Cross the first right tributary (Khalifa Ilga river) and start climbing up-right along the slope (2 hours). Through a vaguely expressed watershed, enter the gorge and follow the Juztaxac river to the grassy fields (to the right of the black moraine clearly visible from Lake Shadau). On the meadow, in the summer, a herd of yaks grazes (without a shepherd). Be cautious — yaks can be aggressive. It's convenient to establish a base camp near large stones next to the yak meadow. There's a stream.

The entire approach from the МЧС house to the base camp (4300 m) takes 5–7 hours.

For ascents to the peaks "10 лет МЧС", 5350, 5535, a storm camp can be set up in the upper part of the gorge at an altitude of 4600 m (2.5 hours walk).

From the base camp, the peaks 5000, 5050, 5350, 5535, and USOY are visible.

Information about Sarez Lake

History of the Lake's Formation

On the night of February 5-6, 1911, a strong earthquake occurred in the central part of the Pamirs (currently on the territory of the Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region of the Republic of Tajikistan). As a result of seismic impact, a giant landslide occurred in the valley of the Murhab River, which received the name "Usoi dam" in memory of the village of Usoi, buried by it. All residents of the village died. The dam deposits blocked the valley of the Murhab River and caused the formation of a large lake.

Sarez Lake is located between the North Alichur and Muzkol ranges, at an altitude of 3239 m. Area: 86.5 km², length about 75 km, width up to 3.4 km. Average depth: 190 m, maximum — 550 m. The feeding is mainly glacial. The range of level fluctuations is about 6 m. It freezes in late December – early January, opens in late March – May.

The average annual level of Sarez Lake rises by 0.2 m annually. From 1967 to 2001, it rose by 4.8 m. The excess of the lowest point of the Usoi dam watershed ridge over the lake is 41 m. In a high-water flood, it can decrease to 32–35 m.

The unique lake is a natural pearl, a scientific object, and at the same time, the most serious potential threat to the entire Central Asia. Scientists predict the inevitability of a lake breakthrough and the emergence of a catastrophic mudflow along the Pyanj River. The destruction zone includes territories:

• Tajikistan,
• Uzbekistan,
• Turkmenistan,
• Afghanistan,

where more than 5,000,000 people live, as well as all Russian border posts located on the Tajik-Afghan border.

Until 1991, geologists and scientists from all over the Soviet Union regularly worked in the lake area. From 1991 to 2003, there were practically no scientific observations at Sarez. Currently, an observation and warning station of the МЧС of the Republic of Tajikistan operates year-round at the Usoi dam. The МЧС house is located between two lakes: Sarez and Shadau. In 2005, another house was put into operation, located directly on the dam. A helicopter pad is equipped nearby.

In 2003–2004, the International Mountaineering Club, together with "Tsentrspas" of the МЧС and the Civil Defense of the Republic of Tajikistan, organized two scientific-sports expeditions, during which:

• 8 first ascents were made
• The lake coastline was surveyed
• A rafting trip was made along the Murhab and Bartang rivers to the Pyanj River
• The first diver's dive into the lake was made
• Underwater video filming was performed.

No information about mountaineering ascents in the area before 2003 was found.

The road from Dushanbe to Sarez Lake:

• Takes 2–3 days by car
• Plus 1 day on foot

"Tsentrspas" base of the МЧС RT (former base of KSP Tajikistan)

Head: Colonel A.V. Pilkevich

Road along the Bartang River (from the turnoff from the Pamir highway to the village of Barchadiv)

Road along the Murhab River from the village of Barchadiv to Sarez Lake

• 20 km on foot
• with pack animals

Map of Sarez Lake

"Biromband" Area

Map-Scheme of the "Biromband" Area

Muzkol Range, Central and Eastern Pamir

International Mountaineering Club

August 13, 2004

Ascent Report to the Peak

"Olimp-2004"

height 5674 m

Central Pamir, Muzkol Range

Proposed route difficulty 3А

Ascent Passport

1. Area — Eastern Pamir, Muzkol Range

   Republic of Tajikistan, Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region

2. Peak — "Olimp-2004". Height 5674 m

3. Peak coordinates: N 38°17.093′ (measured by GPS)

   E 072°42.198′

4. Route — via Western ridge

5. Proposed — 3А cat. diff., first ascent

6. Route character — combined

7. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 950 m, route length — 1900 m

8. Used on the route: pitons — 30 (rock — 18, ice — 12)

9. Number of climbing hours — 13 hours

10. Participants: Vladimir Khabibulin (Candidate for Master of Sports, Tajikistan), Shabhon Yaftaliev (3rd sports category, Tajikistan)

11. Date of ascent: August 13, 2004

    Departure from base camp — 8:00, August 12. Summit — 9:30, August 13. Return to base camp — 12:00, August 13

12. Organization: International Mountaineering Club "Tsentrspas" МЧС and Civil Defense of the Republic of Tajikistan

General view of the peak "Olimp-2004"

On the summit

Route profile

Section 02. Snow-ice couloir

Photo from the summit. In the lower left corner, the Moscow pass and Western ridge

View from the summit to the West

Plaque on the Summit

"Peak OLIMP. Ascent dedicated to the XXVIII Olympic Games. Team of the International Mountaineering Club and 'Tsentrspas' МЧС RT. August 10, 2004"

Route Scheme in UIAA Symbols to the Peak "Olimp-2004" (5674 m)

Route Description to the Peak "Olimp-2004"

The route starts from the 4700 m camp on the Bizangov glacier. Move up the glacier to the Moscow pass 5050 m. Not reaching 300 m to the saddle, there is a steep snow-ice couloir that bypasses the difficult-to-pass rock belt and allows you to reach the western ridge of the peak. In the couloir, a belay is necessary on a 200 m section. The average steepness of the couloir is 50°, sometimes up to 65°.

After passing the couloir, a relatively simple rock-ice section begins, which is traversed with simultaneous belay on a 200 m section.

At an altitude of 5100 m, it's advisable to set up a storm camp for additional acclimatization and an early start to the summit, as:

• the snow on the northwestern side of the ridge is deep and loose;
• it needs to be traversed early in the morning.

The ascent should start at dawn, around 5:30 am, along the snow-rock ridge to the pre-summit gendarme, which is bypassed on the right with belay along the rock-ice slope with a steepness of up to 50°.

Having bypassed the gendarme, we return to the ridge and move to the rocky dome of the peak along simple rocks to an altitude of 5600 m. The ascent to the summit is rock-ice, to the mark 5681 according to GPS and 5674 according to the topographic map.

The ascent takes:

• 4 hours to the 5100 m camp;
• another 4 hours to the summit.

The descent is advisable to make along the northwestern ridge, but slightly descending from the summit towards the Temurkul-Dzhilga river, and further traversing along the same slope, but along the snowy slope, bypassing the main gendarme. The further descent along the ascent route takes 6 hours to the 5050 m mark.

The entire ascent from the 4700 m camp takes 13 climbing hours.

Ministry of Emergency Situations and Civil Defense of the Republic of Tajikistan

Dushanbe, Lohuti St.-26, Ind. 734013, Tel. 23-28-18, Fax 21-13-31. № 24/1026 dated August 19, 2004

Certificate

Republic of Tajikistan, Dushanbe, August 25, 2004

Issued to the team of the International Mountaineering Club (IMC), which made the first ascent to the peak with a height of 5674 m in the Muzkol Range (Eastern Pamir, Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region, Republic of Tajikistan) on August 13, 2004.

Team members: Vladimir Khabibulin (Candidate for Master of Sports, Tajikistan), Shabhon Yaftaliev (3rd sports category, Tajikistan). Team coach: Yuri Baykovsky (Honored Coach of the Republic of Tajikistan).

The peak is named "Olimp-2004". Location: N 38°17.093′ E 072°42.198′.

Head of the Control and Rescue Service of the Republic of Tajikistan, Head of "Tsentrspas" МЧС and Civil Defense of the Republic of Tajikistan, Colonel A.V. Pilkevich.

Minister of Emergency Situations and Civil Defense of the Republic of Tajikistan, Major General M.A. Ziyeev.

International Mountaineering Club

August 11, 2004

Ascent Report to the Peak

"Poytakt" (Capital)

height 5601 m, Eastern Pamir, Muzkol Range. Proposed route difficulty 2А.

Ascent Passport

1. Area — Central Pamir, Rushan Range

   Republic of Tajikistan, Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region

2. Peak — "Poytakt" (Capital), height 5601 m

   named in honor of the 80th anniversary of the capital of Tajikistan, Dushanbe

3. Peak location: N 38°17.150′ E 072°40.550′

4. Route — via Southern ridge

5. Proposed — 2А cat. diff., first ascent

6. Route character — combined

7. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 1000 m, route length — 1400 m

8. Used on the route: pitons — 30 (28 rock, 2 ice)

9. Number of climbing hours — 12 hours

10. Team members:

    Leader — Vladimir Khabibulin (Candidate for Master of Sports, Tajikistan) Participants:

    • Shabhon Yaftaliev (Tajikistan)
    • Alexander Onishchenko (1st sports category, Tajikistan)
    • Igor Loginov (2nd sports category, Russia)

11. Team coach: Yuri Viktorovich Baykovsky (Honored Coach of the Republic of Tajikistan)

12. Date of ascent: August 11, 2004. Time of summit: 13:00

13. Organization: International Mountaineering Club "Tsentrspas" МЧС and Civil Defense of the Republic of Tajikistan

The peak "Poytakt" 5601 m — photo from the Murhab River gorge below the Usoi dam

The peak "Poytakt" 5601 m — photo from Sarez Lake

Route to the Peak "Poytakt"

photo from the ridge of the peak "Olimp-2004" from the East

On the Summit

photo taken towards the upper reaches of Sarez Lake to the South

Route Scheme in UIAA Symbols

Route Description to the Peak Poytakt

From the base camp at an altitude of 4700 m, climb up the gorge for 1 hour. Further:

• To the saddle between the peak Poytakt and MAK along the snow-ice slope for 2.5 hours.
• In the upper part, crampons are needed.
• In the upper part, the slope becomes more gentle.
• Bypassing the moraine on the right, turn right and follow the ridge towards the peak for 300 m along snow-ice fields with rock outcrops (sect. 01).

Along a steep snow-ice couloir, climb to the shoulder of the ridge (sect. 02). Along the ridge to the summit for 300 m (sect. 03).

Descent along the ascent route. The ascent takes 8 hours.

Ministry of Emergency Situations and Civil Defense of the Republic of Tajikistan

Dushanbe, Lohuti St.-26, Ind. 734013, Tel. 23-28-18, Fax 21-13-31. № 24/1026 dated August 28, 2004

Certificate

Republic of Tajikistan, Dushanbe, August 25, 2004

Issued to the team of the International Mountaineering Club (IMC), which made the first ascent to the peak with a height of 5601 m in the Muzkol Range (Eastern Pamir, Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region, Republic of Tajikistan) on August 11, 2004.

Team members:

• Vladimir Khabibulin (Candidate for Master of Sports, Tajikistan)
• Alexander Onishchenko (1st sports category, Tajikistan)
• Igor Loginov (2nd sports category, Russia)
• Shabhon Yaftaliev (Tajikistan)

Team coach: Yuri Baykovsky (Honored Coach of the Republic of Tajikistan)

The peak is named "Poytakt" (Capital). Location: N 38°16.450′ E 072°40.960′.

Minister of Emergency Situations and Civil Defense of the Republic of Tajikistan, Major General M.A. Ziyeev.

International Mountaineering Club

August 15, 2004

Ascent Report to the Peak

International Mountaineering Club

height 5337 m, Central Pamir, Rushan Range. Proposed route difficulty — 4Б.

Ascent Passport

1. Area — Central Pamir, Rushan Range, Republic of Tajikistan, Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region

2. Peak — "International Mountaineering Club". Height 5337 m

3. Peak coordinates: N 38°16.450′ E 072°40.960′

4. Route — via inner corner of Eastern wall

5. Proposed — 4Б cat. diff., first ascent

6. Route character — rock

7. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 630 m, route length — 950 m

8. Used on the route: pitons — 14, chocks — 63

9. Number of climbing hours — 14 hours

10. Participants: Alexander Onishchenko (1st sports category, Tajikistan), Igor Loginov (2nd sports category, Russia)

11. Team coach: Yuri Viktorovich Baykovsky (Honored Coach of the Republic of Tajikistan)

12. Date of ascent: August 15, 2004

    Departure from base camp — 9:00, August 14. Summit — 12:00, August 15. Return to base camp — 12:30, August 15

13. Organization: International Mountaineering Club "Tsentrspas" МЧС and Civil Defense of the Republic of Tajikistan

General view of the peak from the Irkht bay

Start of the route

General View of the Peak "MAK"

General view of the peak "MAK" from the East

View from the Summit to the Irkht Bay

on the lower left, the shoulder 5150 m

On the route. Section R0

Route Scheme in UIAA Symbols to the Peak 5337 m

Route Description to the Peak 5337 m "International Mountaineering Club"

From the 4770 m camp, move towards the peak along the talus shelves for 300 m. The approach takes 30 minutes. The beginning of the route is a clearly defined inner corner at the base of the rocky massif. Climb up the inner corner for 50 m (sect. 02). The rocks are destroyed. Use stoppers and excentrics. Good belay on the shelf.

From the shelf, move right and further up along the chimney with a plug in the upper part (sect. 03). (Attention — the rocks are destroyed). Good belay on the shelf.

Along the inner corner (sect. 04), one rope of very difficult climbing (key!) to the shelf. Use pitons, hexes, and friends. Further 20 m inner corner (sect. 05