62

Climbing Route Description

To Peak "5600" 5692 m, via the East Ridge, 26 km trail (approximately)

The first ascent was made by a team of the Armed Forces led by V. Nikonov on August 16, 1976. Team members:

• Nikonov V.V. — 1st sports category, leader
• Bondarenko B.E. — 1st sports category, participant
• Gorban A.I. — 1st sports category, participant
• Baev A.K. — Candidate for Master of Sports, participant
• Gaas A.V. — Master of Sports, coach

I. Geography of the Area. Peak "5600" is located in the South-Western Pamir in one of the northern spurs of the Shakhdara Range. This spur branches off to the north from Peak K. Marx — the highest peak in the South-Western Pamir — and divides the Shabo and Khatsak valleys.

Administratively, the climbing area belongs to the Shugnan District of the Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region. Entry into the GBAO is permitted only with a pass due to its border location.

The approach to the climbing area does not pose significant difficulties as it is situated near the Pamir Highway Osh — Khorog. Driving along the highway from Osh city for 593 km (after the Koi-Tezek pass), one needs to turn left from the road and ford to the left bank of the Gunt River. Here — ascent to the Kok-Bay pass in the Shugnan Range and further — into the Kok-Bay valley and the upper reaches of the Shakhdara River.

Then about 20 km downstream — to the village of Jaushangooz, which has:

• 5 houses,
• a store,
• post office,
• meteorological station,
• medical center.

From Jaushangooz, there is a road towards the Shabo valley. It leads to the last koshe (10 km), which stands at the junction of the valley into two: to the right upwards — the Khatsak valley (also the ancient local name for Peak K. Marx), and straight upwards — the Shabo valley (also formerly named Peak F. Engels).

Further, there is practically no road. Above the "fork" approximately 10 km — the base camp (see map), from which ascents to Peaks K. Marx and F. Engels were made from the north. The first ascent to Peak "5600" was also made from this camp.

2. Climbing Conditions. The East Ridge of Peak "5600" is almost "purely" rocky, with "perpetual" snow lying only at the very top of the ridge, which persisted even until mid-August when the first ascent was made. The rocks have varying structures: grey granites prevail at the bottom, while at the top — characteristic "reddish" rocks with light bands typical for the South-Western Pamir. Weather during the summer months is generally favorable for climbing.

3. Route Description. Departure from the base camp located at an altitude of 3700 m. Initially, the path goes along the left orographic bank of the Shabo River along the eastern slopes of the northern spur of Peak K. Marx. From the base camp — 1–1.5 hours.

Then, along a grassy slope and scree to the base of the East Ridge of Peak "5600". Up the ridge directly via несложным скалам approximately 7 ropes. Movement is practically simultaneous, with protection through outcrops. In the upper part of the ridge — traverse to the right 15 m and then again upwards into a wide internal angle, where the ascent continues for 2 ropes. The angle leads to a wide part of the East Ridge, along which 10–12 ropes upwards. Movement is simultaneous, with occasional stops to secure a rope around outcrops or "rest". Protection is good throughout, through outcrops.

The most challenging section of the route — the end of this ridge before reaching the North Ridge of Peak K. Marx, where Peak "5600" is located. Here, two rock pitons had to be hammered in for protection.

Further along this North Ridge, which leads to a wide and gentle snow-ice dome. On its southern side on the rocks, a cairn is built.

From the base camp — 6–7 hours.

Descent from the summit along the North Ridge (approximately 2A category of difficulty). To the base camp — 1.5–2 hours. Map of the climbing area. Fig. 3. Before entering the middle part of the ridge. Fig. 2. Lower part of the internal angle at the end of the first 7 ropes. Fig. 4. The last wall before reaching the North Ridge. Fig. 5. Along the North Ridge and summit (with a view in the direction of the south, towards Peak Marx).