Ascent Log

1. East Sayan, Bolshoy Sayan ridge, Moguvek gorge, section 6.1.
2. Eskadrilya 1-ya peak, 3177 m, via the North face.
3. Proposed category: 1B, first ascent.
4. Route type: rock.
5. Height difference 300 m, length 940 m, average slope 30°.
6. Pitons: 1 rock and wired piton used.
7. Team's travel time — 4 hours.
8. No overnight stays.
9. Group:

Ascent Passport

1. Eastern Sayan, Bolshoy Sayan ridge, Moguvek gorge, section 6.1.
2. Eskadrilya 1st – 3rd peak, 3177 m, via North slope, traverse.
3. Proposed 2A cat. diff., first ascent.
4. The route is rocky in nature.
5. Height difference 300 m, length 940 m, average slope 30°.
6. Pitons hammered: rock and wired 1 piece.
7. Team's travel time — 4 hours.
8. No overnight stays.
9. Group:

Ascent Passport.

1. Eastern Sayan, Bolshoy Sayan ridge, Moguvek gorge, section 6.1.
2. Katka-Dura peak, 3064 m, via the Western ridge.
3. Proposed 1B category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. The route is rocky in nature.
5. Height difference 300 m, length 1000 m, average slope 20°.
6. Driven pitons: rock and wired 2 pcs.
7. Team's travel hours – 4 h.
8. No overnight stays.
9. Group:

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Climbing category — rock climbing.
2. Climbing area — Eastern Sayan, Tunka Goltsy ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Bashnya, 2800 m, via the eastern ridge.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 2B, year-round.
5. Height difference, average steepness — 170 m, 50°. Length of sections by category of difficulty: 1st category of difficulty — 130 m, 2nd category of difficulty — 40 m, 3rd category of difficulty — 35 m.

Petrel 2929 m, 2B, October 31, 1978. V. Monomarchuk + 5 people (height difference 630 m, steepness 40°, snow depth 5 cm, 6 h). Photo 2. The route from the Birop gorge side. Sections:

• R2–R3
• R4–R5
• R3–R4 Map of the ascent area. The route is assault (2 groups). Б. лагерь — base camp.

Brief administrative and geographical outline of the ascent area

Peak 2929 m («Petrel») is located in the eastern part of the Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge of the Eastern Sayan, in the valley of the Moygota River. Vegetation is typically taiga:

Irkutsk Regional Public Organization "Club of Active Leisure and Alpinism" Gory Baykala

Report on the First Ascent

To v. Neftekhimikov 2746 m. Via the Western ridge. Approximately 1B category of difficulty.

Irkutsk, 2016. Climbing Passport

1. (Eastern) Sayan Mountains, Tunkin Goltsy, Barun-Khandagai river gorge. Section number according to the classification table (6.1.2).
2. Neftekhimikov 2746 m. (coordinates of the summit: 51° 54′ 59.55″ N, 102° 11′ 6.99″ E) via the Western ridge.
3. Category of difficulty: proposed 1B first ascent
4. Character of the route — rocky.
5. Elevation gain of the route: 458 m

Pas­sport of as­cent to the sum­mit Ar­kov V.V. 2391 m, via the South-West wall couloir, cat. 2A, diff. cat. 1. East­ern Sa­yan, Tun­kin­skie Goltsy ridge, Bu­go­toy val­ley, sec­tion 6.1. Sum­mit Ar­kov V.V., 2391 m, via the South-West wall couloir. Pro­posed cat. 2A, first as­cent. Route char­ac­ter is rocky. Height dif­fer­ence 200 m, length 420 m, aver­age steep­ness 40°. Pitons driv­en: rocky and stop­pers 7 pcs. Team's mov­ing hours — 5 h. No over­night stays on the route. Group: Afa­na­siev A.E. MS, Ba­ru­lin A.G. 3rd sports rank, Gei­da­rov K.G. 2nd sports rank,

Passing the section R4–R5 Passing the crux R5–R6. The "fly swatter" on the crux. The summit, station behind a boulder

Approaches.

From the hut on the lake, we ascend to the moraine cushion, leaving the peaks Neftehimik, Monah, and Ch. Zori to the left. Further along the moraine ridge, we bypass the lower lake and gain altitude, heading to the right towards the peaks Baruun and Uzlovaya. The entire

Report

ON THE FIRST ASCENT OF MT. ARSHAN VIA THE EASTERN SLOPE, APPROXIMATELY 2A DIFFICULTY CATEGORY BY THE TEAM FROM BAIKAL ALPINISM SCHOOL ON OCTOBER 8, 2020.

I. Climbing Report

Aktur Uzunkol — description of the 1B alpinist route from SK Greta

Route description: The trail to Ak pass begins from the first tributary flowing into the Myrdy river below the first bridge from the top on the right bank, and leads left along the trail upwards along steep grassy slopes in the direction of the Pyramida peak. After 1.5 hours, the slope becomes gentler, and the trail goes along small rocky-grassy terraces. 40 minutes later, on one of the terraces to the left of the trail, on a wonderful lawn thickly overgrown with grass, next to a crossing stream, there are good places for tents, no firewood. A couple of rocky-grassy ascents lead to the glacier flowing from under the Pyramida and Ak-bashi peaks. We ascend to the glacier to the right along the trail via small and medium talus and snowfields and enter a small glacial cirque north of the Ak-bashi peak, ending with a ridge of heavily destroyed rocks. A small depression in the ridge is the Ak pass. Orienting our movement towards the saddle of the pass, we cross the glacier and ascend to the pass via snow and then destroyed rocks. From the pass, we ascend to the peak via a snowy (at the end of summer — talus) slope. Descent is via the ascent route. Path chronometry:

• ascent to the tongue of the glacier — 3 hours;
• along the glacier to the pass — 1 hour;