Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: rock climbing
2. Ascent region: Caucasus: 2.6: Sugansky Ridge
3. Peak, route: Aikhva Yuzhnaya (3725 m), from the South
4. Estimated category of difficulty: 3A rock, partially traversed
5. Route characteristics: Height difference – approximately 200 m. Route length – 565 m. Length of sections:

• 5th category of difficulty – 7 m
• 4th category of difficulty – 35 m
• 3rd category of difficulty – 70 m

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus, Sugansky Ridge, Classification section number 2.6.
2. Akritova (3768 m) – via the Southern Edge.
3. Proposed 2B category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Route character — rocky.
5. Route elevation gain — 410 m (from point R0). Total route length – 490 m. Length of sections 4–5 – 32 m. Steepness of key sections – up to 95 °. Average steepness of the entire route – 45 °.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category: rock.
2. Ascent area: Caucasus; 2, 6; Sugansky ridge.
3. Peak, route: p. Botkina (3897 m) from the south via the north-west ridge.
4. Expected category of difficulty: 1B rock; p/p
5. Route characteristics: height difference – about 600 m, route length – 1200 m, length of sections:

• 2+ category of difficulty – 150 m.
• 2 category of difficulty – 550 m. average steepness of the main part of the route — 35°.

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus; Sugansky Ridge; Classification section number 2.6.
2. Pik Botkina — 3897 m; from the South along the South-East ridge.
3. Proposed category: 2B; first ascent — January 15, 1999.
4. Route type — rock.
5. Route elevation gain — 600 m. Route length is about 1400 m. Steepness of key sections is up to 90°. Average steepness of the entire route is 30°.
6. Number of pitons left on the route — 3.
7. Team's travel hours — 6, days — 1.
8. Team leader: Egorin Sergey Vladimirovich — Master of Sports

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus, Sugansky Ridge, Classification section number 2.6.
2. Gabueva Mahara peak (4160 m) — from the South, via the Southern edge.
3. Proposed category: 2B, first ascent.
4. Route type — combined.
5. Route elevation gain — about 700 m (from point R0). Total route length — about 1800 m. Length of sections with 5th category difficulty — 2 m. Steepness of key sections — up to 90°. Average steepness of the entire route — 40°.
6. Pitons left on the route — none. Number of used rock protection — 7.
7. Climbing hours — 5; days — 1.

1. Caucasus, Sugansky Ridge, Classification section number — 2.6.
2. Galdor Glavny (4239 m); via the South Face.
3. Proposed category — 5A; first ascent.
4. Route character — rock.
5. Route elevation gain — 420 m (by GPS). Route length — 550 m. Steepness of key sections — up to 90°. Length of sections with 5th category difficulty — 5 m.
6. Hooks left on the route — 1. Used on the route:

Ascent Passport

1. Class of technical ascents to the peaks of Digorsky gorge and nearby gorges of North Ossetia.
2. Digoria. Eastern part of the Central Caucasus.
3. Peak Galdor Glavny (4130 m) via the Southeast wall.
4. 5B cat. sl. (approximately) first ascent.
5. Height difference 1330 m. Length 900 m. Length of the wall section 380 m. Length of sections 4–5 cat. sl. 310 m. Length of sections 6 cat. sl. 20 m. Average steepness of the route.

Open Summer Championship of St. Petersburg on mountaineering 2004

Report

on the ascent to v. Galdor Main (4130 m) by the Southeast wall, 5B category of difficulty of the youth team of St. Petersburg on mountaineering Head Coach Koltunov O. S. Lobachev E. A.

2004

Contact Information:

pr. 557 and 6 dated 24.12.1985

1. Climbing category — snow-ice.
2. Climbing area, ridge: from Geze-tau pass to Gurdzivceg pass, Main Caucasian Ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Geze-tau, 3870 m, via North-Eastern slope.
4. Estimated category of difficulty — 3A.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1 km, no sections of 5–6 categories of difficulty, average steepness — 38°.
6. Pitons were not hammered on the route.
7. Number of travel hours — 8 hours.
8. There were no overnight stays on the route.

Fig. 25

1. Ascent to Sofrudju peak (3785 m) — cat. d. 1B (fig. 25)

From Dombayskaya polyana cross the bridge over the Alibek river and follow the trail to the stream descending from the large Belalakay couloir. Cross the stream to the snowfield and ascend it for 300–350 m. Then turn left into the Sofrudju couloir (danger of rockfall!) and ascend it to a large overhanging rock. Continue straight up the steep section to the trail and follow it to Medvezhya (Med­ve­zh­'ya) polyana. From Medvezhya polyana ascend 300–350 m up the eastern slope of Belalakay through the snow — exit to the Sofrudju bivouac. From Dombayskaya polyana — 5–6 hours.