Ascent Passport
- Ascent category: rock.
- Ascent area: Caucasus; 2, 6; Sugansky ridge.
- Peak, route: p. Botkina (3897 m) from the south via the north-west ridge.
- Expected category of difficulty: 1B rock; p/p
- Route characteristics:
height difference – about 600 m, route length – 1200 m, length of sections:
- 2+ category of difficulty – 150 m.
- 2 category of difficulty – 550 m.
average steepness of the main part of the route — 35°.
- Pitons hammered in: protection through ledges and ice axe.
- Number of travel hours/days — 6 h / 1 day
- Number of overnight stays: 1 bivouac.
- Organization: Classification Commission FA RSO-Alania.
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View from the West
P. Botkina 3897
Taken from the Zapadny Galdor pass
Route Description
From Galdor overnight camps, move up into a wide snow-scree couloir that leads to a saddle between Galdor Central (4120 m) and Galdor Maly (4080 m).
In the middle part of the couloir, turn right into the second snow couloir (along the path), which leads to a scree slope (in the upper part of the couloir, protection is variable through ledges, beware of falling rocks).
A wide scree slope leads to a saddle in the North-West ridge of p. Botkina (Zapadny Galdor pass 3750 – 2B).
20 m below the pass, on the southern side, there is a platform convenient for setting up two tents.
From Galdor overnight camps to the pass 2–3 h.
Further movement is along a wide snow ridge, bounded on the southern side by destroyed rocks. The ascent to the summit goes along a steep snow-scree slope, alternating with rocks, and further — 40 m along a narrow rocky ridge.
The ascent time from Galdor overnight camps to the summit: 5–6 h.
Descent is via the ascent route.
View from the South
UIAA Scheme
R0–R1 — 1 category of difficulty; 40–45°; 120 m — snow-scree couloir. R1–R2 — 35°; 150 m — scree slope. R2–R3 — 1 category of difficulty; 20°; 250–300 m — snow ridge. R3–R4 — 2+ category of difficulty; 45°; 40 m — pre-summit ascent. R4–R5 — 2+ category of difficulty; 20°; 40 m — rocky ridge.
VIEW FROM THE WEST