Route Description

From the initial bivouac on the moraine of the Molodezhny glacier, exit onto the Tuyuk-Su glacier and, moving along the left lateral moraine, cross the Kosmodemyanskaya glacier that flows into it. Then follow the talus along the rocky ridge connecting the peaks of Lokomotiv and Kosmodemyanskaya. The ascent to the Lokomotiv peak is described above (category 2A difficulty via the North ridge). Bypassing a series of gendarmes on the right via moderately difficult and easy rocks, descend to the saddle between the peaks of Pogrebetskogo and Lokomotiv. Ascend to the peak of Pogrebetskogo via snowy, not very steep slopes, and occasionally talus. Then move along the eastern ridge to the Tuyuk-Su pass. From there, descend to the glacier to the foot of the ridge of the Tuyuk-Su peak, and, bypassing it on the left, head to the initial bivouac. The traverse takes 10–12 hours.

Recommendations

1. Number of participants — not limited.
2. Initial bivouac on the moraine of the Molodezhny glacier.
3. Departure from the bivouac at 5:00 AM.

Ascent to the summit Metallurg via the North-West ridge, route 4Б cat. diff. (Fig. 49). The summit Metallurg is located in the main ridge of the Zailiyskiy Alatau, to the North-East of the Talgar massif. The approach path to the summit from the alpinist camp "Talgar" starts along the trail past the training rocks of the Eastern ridge and goes to the terminal moraine of the Ozerny glacier. Cross the terminal moraine and exit to the right (orographically) lateral moraine of the glacier, then:

• go along the lateral moraine,
• continue moving along the glacier. In 5-6 hours, the foot of the couloir is reached, leading to the saddle of the North-West ridge of the summit Metallurg. Here, on the moraine of the Ozerny glacier, it is possible to make the first overnight stay. There is water. The ascent to the saddle, taking an hour and a half, begins the route. On the saddle is the 1st control point. From the saddle, a small descent and going around the first gendarme along the firn slope with a steepness of up to 45°, after which the ascent begins along the first rocky wall. Height Fig. 49

on crampons, then along the gully itself with flow ice for the first thirty meters on the right side — cutting steps. In the upper part, the gully is blocked by a rock wall 6–8 m high. It is also covered with flow ice. Protection is by pitons. Ascent through crevices. After 3–4 m, transition to the boundary of rocks and ice. Above the wall there is a ledge, convenient for belay. Above the gully, the slope is 45–50° steep, covered with ice. It is safer to pass it on the left side to the rocky ridge and traverse to the right upwards, and then move from one rocky section to another. The exit to the ridge itself is blocked by another 12-meter rock wall. Overcome it along inclined shelves. The exit to the ridge takes 2–2.5 hours. Along the ridge, move in the direction of the summit to the southeast. After 100–150 m, easy

North Tien Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau

Peak Oktyabrenok

via North-North-West ridge For category of difficulty

Climbing Passport

1. Region, valley, section number according to the classification table of 20__ year — North Tien Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau, Maloye Almatinskoye valley.
2. Name of the peak, its height, name of the route: Peak Oktyabrenok 3650 m, via North-North-West ridge.
3. Proposed: 3A cat. dif.

Пик Октябрёнок (3650 m), center of the Western Edge bastion, Zhergetal valley (ЗБ), cat. difficulty The description of the approach is given in the section of the 3A route on the right part of the Western Edge bastion. One needs to approach the bastion in its central part - where the grassy slope rises highest into a rocky cirque. The inner corner continues straight, but the ascent starts to the left of it, along the wall, and even further left - into a small corner, leading to a wide grassy ledge. Further, move left and upwards through a system of inner corners (sections R7–R12) to the top of the protruding edge, where it's convenient to organize a second belay station. From here, cross a steep wall (sections R13–R15) to the talus shelves of the upper part of the bastion. Along the shelves, move right onto the ridge onto the 3A route on the right part of the Western Edge bastion. Move along it to the summit. Descent to the south via 1Б.

The approach is via Mynzhilki cape past the Black rock. Climb up the gully between the moraine and talus slope to the left, towards peak O. Voiny. Continue along the moraine ridges to the south along the trail to the first rocky spur on the left (peak Kholodnye Per'ya). Here, on the rocks, yellow-painted crosses are drawn, giving the name to the overnight stays. Further:

• Turn east behind the rocks from "Kresty",
• Traverse the talus slopes,
• Walk along the Severo-Zapadny Ordzhonikidze glacier. The final steep ascent before the foot of peak Mayakovsky (talus slope between the ice and rocks) is very prone to rockfall. Behind it, turning left, ascend the talus couloir to the saddle (4.5 hours). From here, climb along the rocky ridge to the west on the right via slabs — to the summit. | 1–30°, 50 m, I | | | | --------------- | --------------- | -------------- | | 2–70°, 5 m, III | 5–60°, 8 м, II | 8–0°, 15 м, I |

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area, ridge, gorge — Tian-Shan, Inylchinsky ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Mayda-Adyr, 4090 m, via the left N ridge
4. Route complexity category — 1B cat. diff.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 1590 m, section length — average steepness —
6. Pitons hammered for belay: rock

• ice

Route Description

From the foot of the Vrona Glacier, initially move along the talus, then along the right (orographically) side of the glacier in the direction of the saddle between the I and II Towers of Vrona. From the gendarme V. Korona, move in crampons. The bergschrund is passed via a snow bridge in the right part of the glacier. Further, bypass the black gendarme on the right, ending at the saddle with a yellow saw-tooth wall. The exit to the saddle is between the yellow wall and a heavily destroyed gendarme. Ascent up the wall (7 m, 80°) with piton belay, then move along the ridge to the top of the gendarme (belay via protrusions). At the top - control cairn. Further, descend down to the gap between the saw-tooth gendarme and the I Tower of Vrona:

• Descend 8 m to a square ledge;
• From it, descend sportingly (10–12 m, 80°) into the gap. From the gap:
• Ascend right-upwards along a sheer wall (4 m, 90°) - piton belay;
• Further ascent along inclined slabs (60 m, 30°) and exit via ledges to the summit.

1. Traverse v. Uchitel', 4527 m — v. Kaichechekay, 4515 m, 2B — 7.08.84, Pronin M. — team leader, Timoshenko T., Fyodorov S., Timofeyev A.

Dzhailyk via Western Ridge (V. Ruzhevsky route, 5A cat.) The route is sometimes called “Women's Five” or “Dombay Five”, implying easy dry rocks (up to cat. V) that can be realistically climbed in a day even by women. We have a good opinion about women climbers, as this route is not that easy; moreover, in bad weather it becomes virtually impassable, unlike “Monakh”.

• A bivouac can be set up at “Verkhne-Kichkidarskie nochyovki” (Upper Kichkidar Camps) or on the saddle below Donkin Pass.
• From the Western Yunom Glacier, move from the bivouac to the base of the Western Ridge of Dzhailyk peak.
• Via the avalanche debris and ice-snow slope of the Central couloir, along the rocks on the left side, approach the first inner corner at the base of the Western Ridge.
• From “Verkhne-Kichkidarskie nochyovki” it takes about 1 hour. From here:
• Up the moderately difficult 30-meter inner corner, then via smoothed steep 40–50-meter slabs ascend to the Western Ridge of Dzhailyk peak.
• Via monolithic steep slabs of above-average difficulty with short difficult walls on the Western Ridge, ascend 200–250 m to the Lower Triangle summit plateau.
• From the plateau, 50–60 m up a steep smoothed slab of above-average difficulty, then 30 m up a wall with a chimney-crack to a rock outcrop.