Ascent Log

of the Tyumen Region combined alpine team (Tyumen Regional Alpine Federation) to Peak Korona 5th Tower via the Sadovsky Route, category 5B, as part of the Russian Alpine Championship, correspondence class for high-altitude technical ascents. Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Range, Ak-Sai valley. Peak name: Korona 5th Tower, 4860 m Route: V. Sadovsky's Route (1968) - southwest wall, category 5B Route type: combined Route elevation gain: 860 m Route length: 900 m Section lengths:

• category 2: 200 m

REPORT

ON THE ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF KORONA, 5-YA VIA THE WESTERN RIDGE, CATEGORY 5B, BY THE KAIS MEI TEAM FROM AUGUST 12, 2021 TO AUGUST 13, 2021 Moscow, 2021

I. ASCENT DOCUMENTATION

Ascent Passport

1. Tian-Shan Kyrgyz range, Ak-Sai gorge.
2. Peak name: Korona 5th tower 4860 m
3. Route V. Balezin (1996), center of the southwest wall, 6A
4. Route type: combined
5. Route elevation gain: 850 m. Route length: 950 m. Section length:

• V difficulty category 600 m
• VI difficulty category 110 m.

Ascent Log

1. Class: technical;
2. Region: Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too range, Ak-Sai gorge
3. Climbing object: Peak Korona, 5th tower, via the center of the southern wall (V. Balezin) 4855 m.
4. Complexity category: 6A
5. Route type: combined Route elevation gain — 770 m. Route length — 810 m. Length of sections:

• 5 — 340 m
• 6 — 120 m. Average slope:

PASSPORT

1. Ice and snow ascent category.
2. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz range, Aksai spur.
3. Peak Svobodnaya Korea via north wall couloirs (Barber's route), 4740 m.
4. Proposed category 5B difficulty, second ascent.
5. Height difference — 680 m, length — 865 m. Length of category 5B difficulty — 520 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 52° (4060–4660 m), including sections of 51° (4120–4420 m), 52° (4420–4580 m), 59° (4580–4660 m).
6. Pitons driven: rock 1 ice 340

Russian Championship in mountaineering in the ice and snow class Report on the ascent of the St. Petersburg team to Peak Svobodnoy Korei 4740 m. Via the North Face couloir, 5B cat. sl. Barber's route on February 20, 2015.

Ascent Details

1. Mountain system: Tian Shan Region: Kyrgyz Ala-Too Range Valley: Ak-Sai Peak name: Svobodnoy Korei, 4740 m
2. Route name: via the North Face couloir
3. Category of difficulty: 5B cat. sl.
4. Route type: ice and snow

Report on the ascent of the Tomsk-Novosibirsk team to Peak Svobodnoy Korei 4740 m. Via the North wall couloir, 5B cat. sl., Barber's route, March 25, 2019.

1. Mountain system: Tian-Shan. Region: Kyrgyz Ala-Too Range. Valley: Ak-Sai. Name of the summit: p. Svobodnoy Korei, 4740 m.
2. Name of the route: via the North wall couloir, №147.
3. Category of complexity: 5B.
4. Nature of the route: ice and snow.
5. Characteristics of the route: Height difference: 700 m. Route length: 900 m. Length of sections with V–VI cat. sl.: 600 m. Average steepness:

1. p. Svobodnaya Korea, 4740 m, right of the left buttress of the North wall (2nd ascent) cat. diff.
2. team leader: Sergey Dashkevich, Master of Sports
3. Central Tien Shan. Kyrgyzsky ridge. Aksay valley.
4. Section in classification 7.4

Report

on the second ascent of the team of the Federation of Alpinism and Rock Climbing of the Sverdlovsk Region (FAiS Sverdlovsk Region) to p. Svobodnaya Korea, 4740 m, right of the left buttress of the North wall. 6A cat. diff.

Addresses:

620092, Ekaterinburg, Novgorodtseva st., 9/3, ap. 17, Sergey Dashkevich, Tel. 89122436251, Dash-sa@mail.ru, Ekaterinburg, 2010

Report on the ascent to p. Svobodnaya Korea

Ministry of Sports of the Krasnoyarsk Krai

KRASNOYARSK KRAI ALPINISM FEDERATION

Russian Alpinism Championship

2016

Class: Snow and Ice

Report

On the first ascent by the Krasnoyarsk Krai team to Peak Svobodnoy Korei, 4777 m, via the right part of the left triangle of the N wall, route "Krasnoyarsky" First ascent, estimated 6A category of difficulty Krasnoyarsk 2016

Ascent Details

Route Description

From the Myrdı bivouac, ascend the grassy slopes towards the lower part of the eastern ridge of Pyramida. Then turn right onto the large, wide slopes cut by a chain of couloirs and scree, rising towards the terminal moraine of the Pyramida glacier. Reach the glacier via the large, long moraine. Continue straight up towards the clearly visible, rightmost narrow saddle on the Pyramida ridge. The ridge connects to the summit of Ak-bashi to the right. The ascent to the saddle follows a snowy slope with a steepness of up to 40°, then a narrow 100-meter couloir (ice in the second half of summer). From the saddle, descend 50 m to the other side and follow a wide, 400-meter scree shelf that wraps around the base of Pyramida from the west, approaching a large rocky outcrop. Ascend the outcrop upwards and to the left, then move onto inclined shelves above a white quartz vein (protection!). Then bypass the first rocky prominence and move towards the wedge-shaped rock protruding from the second rocky prominence on the ridge. Ascend to the wedge-shaped rock via broken rocks, then follow the inner angle - a couloir (water!) - to reach the upper scree slopes above the wall via a small R6 rock wall. Follow the scree slopes and small ridges to reach the main ridge of the summit at a large, horizontally lying slab. From here, move left and down into a small depression, then ascend to the summit via yellow rocks. 6 hours from the bivouac. Descent from the summit follows the "Pyramida via the Southeast Ridge" route.

• Departure time from the bivouac should be no later than 5 am.
• On the eve of the ascent day, mark the path to the terminal moraine of the Pyramida glacier.