Ascent Log

  1. Class: technical;
  2. Region: Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too range, Ak-Sai gorge
  3. Climbing object: Peak Korona, 5th tower, via the center of the southern wall (V. Balezin) 4855 m.
  4. Complexity category: 6A
  5. Route type: combined

Route elevation gain — 770 m. Route length — 810 m. Length of sections:

  • 5 — 340 m
  • 6 — 120 m.

Average slope:

  • main part of the route — 81°
  • entire route — 72°
  1. Pitons left on the route: total — 7; including stationary pitons — 0;

Pitons used on the route: 98

  • stationary pitons — 0; including fixed rope devices — 0;
  • removable pitons — 0; including fixed rope devices — 0; total fixed rope devices used — 58.
  1. Team's total climbing hours: 49 hours (8 days)
  2. Leader: Chumakov D.V. — CMS

Team members: Pivtsov V.T. — CMS Molgachev D.S. — CMS Raspopov A. — CMS Rudakov A.Yu. — CMS Skopin A.A. — CMS

  1. Coach: Ilyinsky E.T. — Honored Coach of Russia
  2. Departure to the route — February 13, 2001, 11:00; Reached the summit — February 20, 2001, 13:00; Returned to base camp — February 20, 2001, 17:00

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  1. NW ridge, 5B complexity category.
  2. Center of S wall (Balezin), 6A complexity category.
  3. Right part of S wall (Ruzhevsky), 5B complexity category.

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Bivouac at 4750 m, February 19, 2001.

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Pivtsov V. working on the key section of the 4th rope

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Molgachev D. working on the 13th rope.

Attached files

Sources

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