Peak 3118 (Ayyuly) Route: via the south ridge Category: 1B (combined) Leader: A. Lyapunov Western Caucasus, Arkhyz, Irkis valley, north-eastern spur of the Arkasar ridge — Gabulu ridge, Ayyuly tract Section in KMGV — 2.1.

Report

On the first ascent of the climbing route to Peak 3118 (Ayyuly) as part of the "Third stage of the Cup of NP «Sauk-Pay» — «Irkis-2015»" climbing competition

Peak 3226 (Dimitrov-100) Route: via north-west edge Complexity category — 4A cat. sl. (combined) Leader: S. Bernatsky Western Caucasus, Kara-Jash ridge Section in KMGV — 2.1. E-mail — ZHUR58@RAMBLER.RU

Report

On the first ascent of the climbing route to peak 3226 (Dimitrov-100) "Via north-west edge 4A cat. sl. (combined)".

Fig. 71. a – initial part of Route 27 (R0–R3); 1, 2 and 3 – Left, Central and Right ("Hockey player") gendarmes; b – view of the South walls and West ridge of Dimitrov-100 peak (sections R3–R10), partially R11 and R12 – from the West ridge of Bulgaro-Soviet Friendship peak; c – section R11–R12 of Route 27. Photo by V. Bobylyov. View from the North Fig. 70. Sketch of Route 27. Scale 1:3000 Route 27 (Fig. 69, 70). The path to the assault camp "At the lake" under the southern slopes of the 60th anniversary of KChAO peak is described earlier (Route 22). From the base camp "Ice farm" to the specified assault camp – 4–5 hours. The approach path to the beginning of the described route partially coincides with a similar path to Route 26 (3A). From the base of the ascent on Route 26, you need to turn 90° left, towards the saddle between Bulgaro-Soviet Friendship peak and the South tower of Dimitrov-100 peak. There are three gendarmes on the saddle. The direction should be kept towards the base of the junction of the saddle wall and the South tower wall. A couloir descends here from under the right gendarme "Hockey player". The start of the route. Movement on 30–40° snow. From the "At the lake" overnight stay – 2 hours 30 minutes. The beginning of Route 27 coincides with Route 24 (up to R3). Section R0–R1 (Fig. 71a). Along the left part of the couloir (smoothed gneiss granite) 35 m to a convenient reception point (chip, shelter). At the same time, the overhang encountered after 25 m is bypassed on the left with an exit above it. α = 70°. 3 stoppers.

Peak 3226.0 (Dimitrov-100, Taulan). Route: via the western couloir and northern ridge. Category: 3A (combined). Leader: V. Babkin Western Caucasus, Arkhyz, Orlenok gully, Karajash mountain massif. Section in KMGV — 2.1. E-mail — ZHUR58@RAMBLER.RU

Report

On the first ascent of the climbing route to peak 3226.0 (Dimitrov-100, Taulan) "Via the western couloir and northern ridge. Category: 3A (combined)" at the year-round alpine event: "Championship and primacy of NP 'Club of Northern Travels 'Sauk-Pai' 2012 (class 'First ascents')". Region: Karachay-Cherkess Republic. Mountain country: Western Caucasus. Valley: Orlenok gully. Ridge: Karajash mountain massif. Peak: 3226.0 (Dimitrov-100, Taulan). Route: via the western couloir and northern ridge, 3A category (combined). Difficulty level: 3A category (combined) (approximately). Prepared by: V. Babkin, S. Zhuravlev. May, 2012.

Description of the peak

Peak 3226.0 is one of the peaks in the northern part of the Karajash ridge. It is located in the territory of the North Caucasian Federal District of the Russian Federation, in the Karachay-Cherkess Republic, Arkhyz mountain region, between the Pshish and Sofia rivers. Peak 3226.0 is a prominent mountain of the Karajash massif, located northwest of the nodal peak Karajash (3171.0). The peak is easily identifiable from the upper cirque of the Orlenok gully. The peak does not have an official name, so it has conditional tourist and climbing names:

Peak 3226.0 (Dimitrov-100, Taulan) Route: via the southwestern ridge Difficulty category — 2A category (combined) Leader: A. Sotnikov Western Caucasus, Arkhyz, Orlenok gully, Kara-Jash mountain massif Section in KMGV — 2.1. E-mail — ZHUR58@RAMBLER.RU

Report

On the first ascent of the climbing route to peak 3226.0 (Dimitrov-100, Taulan) "Via the southwestern ridge 2A category (combined)". At the alpinism competitions "Cup of Victory" by NP "Club of Northern Travels 'Sauk-Pai'" (class "First ascents") in May 2013. Region: Karachay-Cherkess Republic Mountain country: Western Caucasus Gully: Orlenok gully Ridge: Kara-Jash mountain massif Peak: 3226.0 (Dimitrov-100, Taulan) Route: via the southwestern ridge. Difficulty level: 2A category (combined) (approximately) Prepared by: A. Sotnikov, S. Zhuravlev. May, 2013.

Peak 3226.0 (Dimitrov-100, Taulan) Route: via the western couloir and southern ridge Complexity category — 2B cat. sl. (combined) Leader: S. Bernatsky Western Caucasus, Arkhyz, Orlenok gully, Kara-Jash mountain range Section in KMGV — 2.1. E-mail — ZHUR58@RAMBLER.RU

Report

On the first ascent of the climbing route to peak 3226.0 (Dimitrov-100, Taulan) "Via the western couloir and southern ridge 2B cat. sl. (combined)". At the climbing competitions "Cup of Victory" by NP "Club of Northern Travels 'Sauk-Pai'" (class "First Ascents") in May 2013. Region: Karachay-Cherkess Republic Mountain country: Western Caucasus Gully: Orlenok gully Ridge: Kara-Jash mountain range Peak: 3226.0 (Dimitrov-100, Taulan) Route: via the western couloir and southern ridge. Level of complexity: 2B cat. sl. (combined) (approximately)

□

41

Description

The first ascent of an unnamed peak with the goal of naming it "Столетие освобождения Болгарии" (Bulgaria's Liberation Centennial), via the "islands" from the north and the western ridge, approximately category 3B complexity. From the base camp, follow the trail used by Kislovodsk residents to Sofia Glacier, exiting under the northern slopes of peak Столетие освобождения Болгарии, located east of Sofia peak — 4 hours. The route passes through four rocky "islands" on the northern slope of the ridge connecting these two peaks. Crossing the glacier, we approach the I rocky "island". Before it lies a 5-meter-wide bergschrund, which is overcome by descending onto a snow bridge that leads to the rocks. The ascent begins with a 30-meter wall at 70–75°. Climbing is moderately difficult, with piton protection. After the I rocky island, a 30-meter snow-ice slope at 45–50° leads to the II rocky "island". It is climbed to the left, as the rocks on the right are covered in glaze ice. The rocks are moderately difficult, with piton protection. In some places, there is glaze ice that does not hinder progress. The length of the II rocky island is 70 meters. At the midpoint of the island is the I control cairn! Before exiting onto the snow, there are 20 meters of gentle rocks. Then, a 40-meter snow slope at 40–45° leads to the III rocky "island". The third rocky "island" is climbed straight up. Its length is 100 meters. The rocks are easy. After the III rocky "island", there is about 100 meters of a steep snow slope. In the lower part, the slope is 50°, and in the upper part, it is 55°. This snow slope leads under the IV rocky "island".

□