SummitMate
@SummitMate
Route Description: СВ гребню
Ascent to the summit Ohotnik via NE ridge, category of complexity 2A, altitude difference 420 m, route length 1090 m.
Passport
- Class: Second ascent (first ascent done by Semenov S.A. and Dumaĭskaya E.L. in 1999).
- Altai, Severo-Chuyskiy ridge, Karakabak gorge.
- Okhotnik peak via NE ridge.
- Proposed category: 2A.
- Height 3100 m, elevation gain 420 m, length 1090 m.
- Pitons were not used.
- Duration: 12 hours from camp to camp; 6 hours from the start of ascent to the saddle to the start of descent.
- Leader: Drakin A.V., CMS, participants:
- Mokhova V.M., 1st sports category;
Route Description: Ю кулуару В гребня
Description of the 1B category route to the summit of V. Radistov (V.) via the southern couloir in the Aktru gorge in Altai.
V. Radistov (V.) via the couloir from the south. A.V. Altai. May 8, 1991
Passport
- Class — snow-ice.
- Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge, Aktru gorge.
- V. Radistov (V.) via the couloir from the south.
- Proposed category 1B, first ascent.
- Height difference 1650 m, length 10 km (from the base camp at GMS Aktru).
- Moving time 7 hours.
- The ascent was made by a team of two. Drakin A.V. CMS.
Route Description: Ю кулуару В гребня
Description of the 2A category climbing route to the summit of Radistov (3523 m) in the North-Chuya Range via the southern couloir of the eastern ridge, including technical details and recommendations.
Passport
1.2. North-Chuya Range, Aktru gorge. EXISTING: "1.2.54 Radistov (V) 3750 1B from the south via Akturu couloir. A. Drakin, 91"
Proposed Reclassification of the Route
1.2.54 Radistov (V) 3523 2A category of difficulty to the south couloir of the eastern ridge Note: height (3522.7) - according to the published map M 1:50000. Altitude difference according to the group's altimeter: 3550–2930 = 620 m. Route length – 1,200 m (estimated); including category III difficulty – 290 m up to 40°. Average steepness of the entire route – 30°. Used in total for the ascent: ice screws – 6 rock stoppers and rock pitons — none
Route Description: левой части С склона В гребня
Description of the ice and snow route category 2B to the summit Radistov-Vostochnaya (3523 m) in the North-Chuya Range with details of passage and belay.
Passport
1.2. North Chuya Range, Aktru gorge. Radistov (E) 3523 via the left part of the northern slope of the eastern ridge. Proposed: Category 2B difficulty, first ascent. Route character: ice-snow. Note: height (3522.7) - according to the published online map M 1:50 000. Altitude difference according to the group's altimeter: 3530–2940 = 590 m. Route length – 1100 m (estimated); including: Category III difficulty – 140 m up to 50°. Average steepness of the route – 33°.
Route Description: С склону З гребня
Description of a new Category IIIB climbing route to the Vostochnaia (Eastern) summit of Radistov (3750 m) in the Severo-Chuysky Range on Altai, with a detailed description of traversing the gully and the western ridge.
Passport
- Gorny Altai, Severo-Chuysky Ridge (a/l "Aktru").
- p. Radiostov Vostochnaya (3750 m) via the ice gully on the northern slope and the western ridge.
- Proposed 3B category difficulty (first ascent). Route length 1230 m. Height difference 650 m. Average slope: — main part of the route — 46°; — entire route — 33°.
- Hooks left — 0 pcs.
- Climbing hours to the summit — 6 h 10 min.
- Leader: Gaponov Alexander Vladimirovich (1st sports category, "Irbis" club, Kemerovo).
Route Description: С гребню с л. Б. Актру
Description of the route to Peak Radiostov via the northern ridge from the Bolshoy Akturu glacier, complexity category 2B, time 5-6 hours.
V. Radistov via the ridge from the Bolshaya Aktru glacier, category III
From the camp, move up the Aktru river in the direction of the Bolshaya Aktru glacier. The ridge of Radistov Peak is bypassed on the right. Move along the slopes of Kzyl-Tash Peak, following the riverbed until the big "sheep's foreheads" (1–1.5 hours), which are bypassed on the right along a steep scree slope. Further:
- go along the edge of the glacier to the slopes of Stazhёrov Peak.
- the lake ("Goluboye" / "Blue") is located behind a moraine rampart.
- there is a hut on the moraine.
- from the camp, it takes 2–2.5 hours of walking. From the moraine lake, cross the Bolshaya Aktru glacier in the direction of the widest snow couloir,
Route Description: С склону
Description of the route on the northern slope of Radistov peak in Altai, category 3A difficulty level, first ascent in 1997.
PASSPORT
- Snow and ice class.
- Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge, Aktru gorge.
- Radistov (Gl.) via the northern slope.
- Proposed category 3A (first ascent).
- Elevation gain 450 m, length 800 m.
- Ice screws 21 pcs.
- Total hours from base camp to base camp 12 h.
- Approach possible with overnight stay at "Goluboe ozero" (Blue Lake).
- Drakin A.V. CMS
Route Description: В гребню
Description of the category 1B ascent route to Sibiryak 3400 m peak in the North-Chuya Range in Altai.
Ascent Record.
- Climbing area: ALTAI REPUBLIC, Severo-Chuyskiy ridge.
- Summit: SIBIRYAK 3400 m.
- Route: SIBIRYAK summit — East ridge.
- Difficulty category: 1B
- Route characteristics:
- elevation gain 1000 m
- length of 1B difficulty sections 300 m
- average slope 30°
- Piton usage on the route: no
Route Description: Ю гребню с пер.Орбита
Description of the ascent route to Sibiryak 3400 m peak via the Southern ridge from Orbit pass, Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge, category 1B.
Ascent Passport
- Altai, Shavlo gorge, section 1.2.
- Sibiryak peak, via the South ridge from the Orbita pass (3400).
- Category 1B difficulty is proposed.
- The nature of the route is combined.
- Height difference 500 m, length 1000 m, average slope of the route 30°.
- Driven pitons: rock and wired 2.
- Team's travel time 5 hours.
- Leader: Afanasieva G.N. 1st sports category. Participants:
Route Description: С кф. В гребня
Ascent to the summit of Skazka (3500 m) via the North Buttress of the East Ridge, grade 4A, combined route.
1.85
Ascent Report
to v. Skazka via North entronforts of the Eastern ridge (along the route) I. Ascent class — technical. 2. Ascent area, ridge — Akaya, North-Chuya Belki. 3. Skazka peak, 3500 m, ascent via North entronforts of the Eastern ridge, route is combined. 4. Proposed category of difficulty — 4A. 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 900 m, length of sections with 4th difficulty grade — 360 m, average steepness — 40°. 6. Pitons hammered in: