CHAMPIONSHIP OF THE CENTRAL AND NORTH-WESTERN FEDERAL DISTRICTS

class - high-altitude technical

REPORT

On the ascent to the summit Volnaya Ispaniya (4163 m) via the North-Eastern edge (Subortovich route) 5B cat. sl. by the team "Center" August 7, 2024

I. ASCENT DOCUMENTATION

п.­ Volnaya Ispania — в.­ Vjedukh. 4А cat.­ diff., traverse, to route 3. Nefedova, 47 The exit to the traverse of п.­ Volnaya Ispania starts with the approach via the normal route to пер.­ Kashka-Tash. The first overnight stay is at the pass. (From AUSV “Dzhantugan” — 6–7 hours). From the pass, ascend a steep icy slope, partially covered with snow (2 hours). After crossing the ice slope, continue along the rocky ridge to the summit. Initially, the path traverses несложным скалам (easy rocks), followed by a snowy ridge where simultaneous movement is possible, requiring careful attention to avoid cornices hanging towards the Kashka-Tash glacier. The first major жандарм (boulder) is bypassed on the right (in the direction of travel), the second — on the left. The rocks along the bypass route are loose. Beyond the жандармы, a significant descent follows, succeeded by a fairly steep ascent up the snowy ridge. This ascent leads to a paired базальтовому жандарму (basalt boulder), ascended directly along the ridge. The descent from it involves a 5–6 m abseil. Immediately beyond the basalt жандарм, after a short narrow saddle with a snowy cornice to the north, begins the “ascent” to the предвершинный гребень (pre-summit ridge) of the “Gogol” жандарм. The ascent is from the left side of the жандарм, exiting onto the ridge just below the highest point. The rocks are difficult, quite brittle, with плитами (slabs), зацепками (holds), and полочками (ledges) of черепичного характера (a tiled nature, facing downwards), averaging 65° steepness. The ascent from the saddle to the top of the жандарм (about 60 m) takes 3 hours. In total, from the pass — 12–13 hours of work. An overnight stay is possible somewhat below the upper жандарм.

пик Вуллея, 3960 м, via 3rd ridge, cat. diff. 1B, route by L. Nadezhdin, 35 The path from the Shkhelda AU SB (Alplager) follows the trail leading to the Shkhelda glacier and further along the left edge of the glacier to the Ak-Su glacier. At the confluence with the Shkhelda glacier, turn left from the glacier edge to the middle of the Shkhelda glacier and ascend it to the slopes of Peak Vulley. Approaching the slopes, turn to the right bank of the glacier, where a rocky outcrop is located near the turn of the Shkhelda glacier opposite Peak Durovsky and the ascent to the Ushba plateau, offering a good camping spot (Shkhelda bivouac). There is water available at the bivouac site. It is possible to set up a bivouac for 8-10 tents. The travel time is 6 hours from the Shkhelda AU SB. From the bivouac, the path goes along the scree slopes located to the left of the bivouac. Movement should be done with great caution (especially in a large group) as rockfall is possible from the slopes of Peak Vulley. After the scree, a steep snow slope (35-40°) begins, leading to the saddle between the subpeak and the main peak. The ascent is hazardous due to the steepness of the slopes and requires great caution, especially during mass ascents; when moving along the snow slope, it is necessary to stay on the left side (in the direction of travel) as the right side has a steep slope with snow cornices. Further ascent follows the western ridge to the summit (about 1 hour 40 minutes). Movement along the snowy ridge is not difficult, but caution is still necessary. The ridge features rocky sections and minor obstacles (about 20-25 meters). The ascent from the bivouac to the summit takes around 7 hours. Descent takes 3-4 hours.

1. Class of ascent — rock
2. Ascent area — Central Caucasus, Main Ridge
3. Peak, its height and ascent route — Vulleya peak, 3960 m, via the South Edge, East Counterfort.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 4B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 750 m, average steepness — 40°, length of sections: II — 340 m, III — 530 m, IV — 280 m, V — 80 m.
6. Pitons driven: for insurance: rock — 17, ice — 0, bolt — 0; for creating RTO — 1.
7. Number of travel hours — 10.
8. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics — 0.
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader and participants, their sports qualification: Elagin Vasily Igorevich, 1st sports category; Kurkin Nikolay Sergeevich, 1st sports category.
10. Team coach — Golovin A.A., Master of Sports.

144. Gadyl via the Eastern ridge (O. Aristov's route, Cat. 3A). The path from the "Jantugan" alpine camp (group of 4-5 people) to the summit of Lekzyr-Jantugansky with the initial bivouac on the rocks of the Jantugan Pass is described in route 146. From the summit of Lekzyr-Jantugansky, descend westward along the snowy, then rocky ridge under the rocky tower of the 1st gendarme of the long horizontal snow-covered rocky Eastern ridge of Gadyl summit. Traverse the tower via the snowy slopes (belay!) on the left. Further along the long rocky-snowy ridge (overhanging cornices!), both gendarmes on it are traversed on the left, and exit under the rocky-snowy ascent of the Eastern ridge of Gadyl summit. Via the snow-covered rocks

145. Gadyл via South Ridge (K. Tumanov's route, category 3A). The path from the "Jantugan" alpine camp (group of 4-8 people) to the initial bivouac on the snow pad of the South Ridge of Bashkara's South shoulder is described in route 143. From the pad (without backpacks, with crampons!), traverse the snow slope to the right in the direction of the South Ridge. Having passed under the rocks of the (first) left buttress, cross a steep snowy couloir and ascend a steep snowy slope to the rocks of the (second) right buttress of Gadyл peak. Along the snowy slope, then the rocks of moderate difficulty of the buttress or its right side, overcoming small walls directly, exit onto simple rocks and follow them to the rocky belt. From the bivouac - 5-6 hours. Under the wall of the rocky belt, traverse to the right, then via simple rocks and a snowy couloir, ascend to the shoulder of Gadyл peak's South Ridge, above the Big Gendarme in the ridge. From here, along the simple and moderately difficult monolithic rocks of the ridge with small difficult walls, then along the snowy ridge, ascend to Gadyл. From the point of exit onto the South Ridge - 3 hours. Descend via the ascent route or via the East Ridge (see route 144). The duration of the route is 4 days. Special equipment for 4 people: main rope - 2 × 30 m, auxiliary cord - 2 m, rock pitons - 5-6, ice pitons - 2-3, rock hammers - 2, carabiners - 8-10, crampons - 4 pairs, tent - 1. Possible bivouac locations - on the shoulder of the South Ridge, on ledges, on the summit. ("Baksan Valley", A.F. Naumov)

49. Traverse of the Gadyl - Bashkara ridge (O. Aristov's route, category 4A, fig. 29, 30, 31). The path from the Djantugan alpine camp (group of 4-8 people) to the Gadyl peak is described in route 144. From Gadyl, traverse along the simple, partially ruined rocks of the long, jagged, almost horizontal, snow-covered ridge, bypassing all the gendarmes on the left, to reach the South shoulder of Bashkara peak. From the shoulder, rappel, then descend along the simple ridge to the saddle. Further, along the snowy ridge, exit under the 2nd gendarme. Bypass the gendarme along the ledges on the left (belay!). Then, along the moderately difficult rocks of the ridge, overcoming the 1st gendarme directly, ascend to the summit of Bashkara. From the Gadyl peak, 3 hours. Descent along the Northeast ridge (see route 142). Duration of the route is 4 days. Special equipment for 4 people: main rope - 2 × 30 m, auxiliary cord - 4 m, rock pitons - 6-8, ice pitons - 3-4, rock hammers - 2, carabiners - 8-10, crampons - 4 pairs, tent - 1. Possible bivouac sites - on the platforms on the left side of the main ridge (see also routes 142, 144).

336. Gvergishi­sher via North Ridge (rocky route, category 1B difficulty, fig. 32). From the village of Nakra, follow the trail up the left slope of the gorge. Then turn left and ascend along the stream to the left-bank moraine of the Gvergishi­sher Glacier. From the moraine, move up the glacier to the left. From the upper left corner of the glacier, ascend easy, heavily fragmented rocks of the couloir, then 150–160 m of straightforward steep rocks (belaying required) up to the North Ridge of Gvergishi­sher. Here, turn left and follow easy, straightforward rocks of the wide North Ridge; then ascend a 20–25-meter straightforward rock pitch to the summit of Gvergishi­sher. 2.5–3 hours from the moraine.

Peak GER­MO­GE­NO­VA, 3343 m via 3rd ridge, cat. cl. 2B, climbing route Bivouac on "Rusty Rocks" (Ry­zhiye skaly). It takes 2 hours to walk from AUSB to dzhan­tug­an. From the bivouac site, we head under the first snowpatch on the right, which is quite steep and descends from the northwest ridge of the summit. After ascending the snowpatch to the ridge, we proceed along the scree and severely damaged rocks to reach the beginning of a distinct ridge. From here to the snowy saddle under the summit tower, there are various possible routes. If the firn is in good condition, a significant part of the rocks can be bypassed on the left while wearing crampons, which saves a lot of time. However, usually, one has to ascend directly through the rocks. The rocks are mostly of medium difficulty, with insurance provided by выступы (rocky ledges); there are sections of damaged rocks. Deviations to the southern side of the ridge (up to 20–40 m) are possible where deemed expedient. On the snowy saddle, an overnight stay is possible; there is water. From here, the summit tower is circumvented on the right, from the southern side. We ascend to the summit ridge to the left of the cairn. The descent follows the ascent route. Approximate time calculation:

1. From "Rusty Rocks" to reaching the ridge — 1–1.5 hours.
2. Ascending to the snowy saddle — 5–8 hours.
3. Ascending to the summit — 1.5–2.5 hours.
4. Descending via the ascent route — from 6 to 9 hours. «Tia­ney»

I. Climbing category - technical 2. North spur of the Main Caucasian Range. 3. Peak Germogenova via the left part of the N wall 4. Proposed category: 3A 5. Route description: snow-ice, height difference (from the saddle) - 423 m, average steepness of the wall section - 46° 6. Number of protection points - 36 (ice screws) 7. Total climbing time - 6 hours 8. Team leader: Laptev Alexander Leonidovich, Candidate Master of Sports Team members:

• Ivanov G.A., Candidate Master of Sports