282. Chegettau via the Northeast Slope

(combined route by Yu. Zhuravsky, Category III, diagrams 18, 32). The path from the "Ullutau" alpine camp (group of 4-8 people) to the "Cheget bivouac" is described in route 269. From the "Cheget bivouac", traverse the moraine and talus to the left side of the rocky Tower that divides the glacier descending the northeast slope of Chegettau peak. Ascend via talus, simple "ram's foreheads," and snowfields on the left side of the Tower to its summit plateau. From the Tower's summit plateau, ascend the icy-snowy northeast slope, navigating around ice falls and crevasses:

• ascend 350–400 m up and to the right
• reach the base of the Middle Rock Band of the North Ridge. From here, ascend a steep icy-snowy slope for 150–200 m (with protection) alongside the rocks of the Middle Rock Band. After crossing a large ice crevasse via a snow bridge, continue up a steep 200–250-meter icy-snowy slope (with protection) to the base of the Upper Rock Band of the North Ridge. The large crevasse can be bypassed to the right via rocks and the icy-snowy slope of the Middle Rock Band. Ascend simple to moderately difficult rocks ("live" stones, piton protection):
• Ascend 30–40 m to the Upper Rock Band
• Continue up the icy-snowy slope to the shoulder of the North Ridge
• From the shoulder, traverse to a small snow plateau
• Cross the plateau and traverse a snow bridge over an ice crevasse

Fig. 32

11

The summit of Cheget-Tau-Chana is located in the Main Caucasian Range, bounded to the east by the Görzak pass and to the west by the upper Gumachi. The height of the summit is 4149 m. To reach the camps, we head towards the right-hand верховой slope (upper slope) of Gumachi, crossing the river Gumachi in a ford before ascending to the moraine. We then proceed up the slope to reach the "Chegetonnye bivouac" (bivouac on Cheget). From there, we ascend via rocky or snowy terrain, passing by a conspicuous rock tower (башня), where a clearly defined couloir (кулуар) is visible, often carrying water. We continue along a ledge (носовая полка) to a jagged terrace on the outlier. Then, traversing the terrace towards the snowy saddle in its middle part, we reach the rock tower. From the tower, we ascend a broken slope (разорванный полог) towards the neck (шейная часть) of the northeastern ridge's rocky outcrop. After overcoming the randkluft, we reach relatively gentle snowy slopes. Initially on rocks, then on a snowy slope with an angle of 30°, we approach the second rocky outcrop of the ridge. Having passed it, we emerge onto a not very steep rocky-snowy section on the horizontal part of the ridge, which then sharply rises towards the summit. The average steepness of the ridge is 40°, with a length of 6–7 rope pitches. This ridge leads to the summit. The descent from the summit is done in the direction of peak Latsga via a straightforward ridge on the boundary between snow and rock. Latsga is located below the ridge. From peak Latsga, the descent initially follows a snowy slope back onto the main ridge. After traversing 1–2 rope pitches along the ridge, we descend to the right into a snowy couloir leading to the Garvan pass. In the couloir, it's advisable to descend with an ice axe. The path from the pass is conventional. RECOMMENDATION:

1. Possible belay stances:

• on the "tower"

CENTRAL CAUCASUS. ADYR-SU VALLEY ALPINISM CAMP “DJAILYLYK”

V. Cheget-Tau Chana from the east via the wall. (Route description of the first ascent)

Group: DAVYDOV A.P. — leader

• VYSHINSKY N.N.
• PLYUKHIN Y.V.
• SUKHORUKOV A.T. August 1963 The Cheget-Tau Chana peak is located in the Main Caucasian Range. The ridge of the Cheget-Tau massif, enclosed between the peaks of Latsga and Gumachi, stretches from southeast to northwest. The ridge is weakly dissected and has an insignificant number of "gendarms". The highest point of the massif has an elevation of 4102 m and is located in its northwestern part — the Main summit. The southeastern part of the ridge has some dominance over the adjacent ridges and can be considered its Eastern summit.

284. Chegettau via the North-West Face (Nikolaenko's combined route, cat. 4B, fig. 18, 32). The path from the Ullutau alpine camp (a group of 4 people) to the initial bivouac at the Gumachi Moraine platforms is described in route 286. From the bivouac, cross the Gumachi Glacier and approach the left side of the North-West Face of Chegettau peak.

In the ice and snow couloirs on the left and right sides of the North-West Face:

• icefall seracs overhang. From the glacier:
• overcome the bergschrund;
• ascend a steep ice and snow slope (icefall, rockfall) to reach the rocks on the left side of the Lower Rock Belt of the North-West Face. On the monolithic, moderately difficult and difficult rocks of the face:
• ascend 80–100 m to a small ledge;
• from the ledge, 60 m upwards on rocks of above-average difficulty (avalanches, rockfall) to a ridge;
• follow a poorly defined 60-meter steep rocky ridge to reach the Lower Rock Belt.

Fig. 32

283. Chegettau via the North Edge

(combined route by G. Sinakin, category 5A, fig. 18, 32). The path from the Ullutau alp camp (group of 4–6 people) to the "Chegetskie nochyovki" is described in route 269. From "Chegetskie nochyovki", approach the center of the rocky tower at the base of the North Edge of Chegettau's Lower Rocky Belt via the left side of the Gumachi glacier. From the glacier, ascend 10 m up and to the right via a sloping crack, then directly up through difficult rocks in a 6-meter vertical inner corner. An alternative ascent is possible directly up through the inner corner to the right of a small rocky outcrop. From the corner, traverse a 4-meter wall to the left of a cornice, then ascend an 8-meter slab and a 12-meter crack to reach the right side of a large ledge. This is a good spot to pull up backpacks. From the ledge, ascend 18–20 m directly up through smooth rocks on the wall (bolts, ladders), then bypass a "live" block on the right to reach another ledge. From the right side of the ledge, ascend 30 m up a smooth vertical wall (bolts, ladders), then climb steep, smooth rocks of medium to above-average difficulty to reach a ledge-slab to the left of the Big Split. Traverse 20–25 m up and to the left along an inclined, above-average difficulty ledge-slab under overhanging walls to approach a wide crack. Ascend 20 m up the crack-chimney ("live" stones, rockfall), then 60 m up and to the right through a wide inner corner with overhanging blocks in the center (bolts), which transitions into narrow, inclined shelves. Climb the shelves to reach a vertical inner corner. Ascend difficult rocks in the 20-meter vertical inner corner, exiting to the left onto slabs. Control point.

Fig. 32

Вер­ши­на Че­гет-Тау

ET-TAV-UA­HA

00 м

1. вер­ши­на 4100 м becomes Peak Cheget-Tau

The route to the peak Shogentsukov via South ridge, cat. 2B (E. Fomushkin, 1965). Since 1965, the route has changed slightly. R1–R2. 90–100 m, 10–15 degrees, 1. From the shoulder of the South ridge of peak Shogentsukov, without descending to the glacier, to the right, along the South ridge. Along the large talus and destroyed rocks, approach a sharp gap in the ridge. R2–R3. 30–40 m, 20–25 degrees, 2. Descend into the gap (15 m, rappel) to the col of the South ridge. From the gap, along a small 8–10-meter couloir, ascend to an even, wide talus plateau. R3–R4. 90–100 m, 5–10 degrees. Along the plateau, approach the talus couloir. R4–R5. 70–80 m, 25–30 degrees, 2. Along the couloir, ascend 70–80 meters to a small col to the left of the ridge. R5–R6. 25 m, 45–60 degrees, 3–4. To the right along the rocks and steep inner corner with ice to the ridge. Along the ridge to the left, bypass the gendarme on the right side in the upper part. R6–R7. 2–3. Bypass several gendarmes along the ledges in a zigzag pattern (2nd and 3rd - to the left, 4th - to the right). R7–R8. Wide inclined ledge to the right of the 4th gendarme. 30 m. Cross to the left through the ridge to the snowy slope. R8–R9. To the right to the summit. Snowy slope 80 m. Kovalev A.N. 08/2020.