282. Chegettau via the Northeast Slope
(combined route by Yu. Zhuravsky, Category III, diagrams 18, 32). The path from the "Ullutau" alpine camp (group of 4-8 people) to the "Cheget bivouac" is described in route 269. From the "Cheget bivouac", traverse the moraine and talus to the left side of the rocky Tower that divides the glacier descending the northeast slope of Chegettau peak. Ascend via talus, simple "ram's foreheads," and snowfields on the left side of the Tower to its summit plateau. From the Tower's summit plateau, ascend the icy-snowy northeast slope, navigating around ice falls and crevasses:
- ascend 350–400 m up and to the right
- reach the base of the Middle Rock Band of the North Ridge.
From here, ascend a steep icy-snowy slope for 150–200 m (with protection) alongside the rocks of the Middle Rock Band. After crossing a large ice crevasse via a snow bridge, continue up a steep 200–250-meter icy-snowy slope (with protection) to the base of the Upper Rock Band of the North Ridge. The large crevasse can be bypassed to the right via rocks and the icy-snowy slope of the Middle Rock Band.
Ascend simple to moderately difficult rocks ("live" stones, piton protection):
- Ascend 30–40 m to the Upper Rock Band
- Continue up the icy-snowy slope to the shoulder of the North Ridge
- From the shoulder, traverse to a small snow plateau
- Cross the plateau and traverse a snow bridge over an ice crevasse
- Continue up the icy-snowy slope
- Then ascend simple rocks to the summit of Chegettau
From the "Cheget bivouac" — 10–13 hours.