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The summit of Cheget-Tau-Chana is located in the Main Caucasian Range, bounded to the east by the Görzak pass and to the west by the upper Gumachi. The height of the summit is 4149 m.
To reach the camps, we head towards the right-hand верховой slope (upper slope) of Gumachi, crossing the river Gumachi in a ford before ascending to the moraine. We then proceed up the slope to reach the "Chegetonnye bivouac" (bivouac on Cheget). From there, we ascend via rocky or snowy terrain, passing by a conspicuous rock tower (башня), where a clearly defined couloir (кулуар) is visible, often carrying water.
We continue along a ledge (носовая полка) to a jagged terrace on the outlier. Then, traversing the terrace towards the snowy saddle in its middle part, we reach the rock tower. From the tower, we ascend a broken slope (разорванный полог) towards the neck (шейная часть) of the northeastern ridge's rocky outcrop.
After overcoming the randkluft, we reach relatively gentle snowy slopes.
Initially on rocks, then on a snowy slope with an angle of 30°, we approach the second rocky outcrop of the ridge. Having passed it, we emerge onto a not very steep rocky-snowy section on the horizontal part of the ridge, which then sharply rises towards the summit. The average steepness of the ridge is 40°, with a length of 6–7 rope pitches. This ridge leads to the summit.
The descent from the summit is done in the direction of peak Latsga via a straightforward ridge on the boundary between snow and rock. Latsga is located below the ridge. From peak Latsga, the descent initially follows a snowy slope back onto the main ridge. After traversing 1–2 rope pitches along the ridge, we descend to the right into a snowy couloir leading to the Garvan pass. In the couloir, it's advisable to descend with an ice axe. The path from the pass is conventional.
RECOMMENDATION:
- Possible belay stances:
- on the "tower"
- before peak Latsga
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Special equipment for a group of 4: a) main ropes 2 × 50 m; b) rock pitons 4–6 pcs; c) ice screws 1 pc; d) rock hammers 2 pcs.
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Departure time from the bivouac («Pineshe-Chegetnoy») — 5:00.
firt. Crevants.