284. Chegettau via the North-West Face (Nikolaenko's combined route, cat. 4B, fig. 18, 32). The path from the Ullutau alpine camp (a group of 4 people) to the initial bivouac at the Gumachi Moraine platforms is described in route 286. From the bivouac, cross the Gumachi Glacier and approach the left side of the North-West Face of Chegettau peak.

In the ice and snow couloirs on the left and right sides of the North-West Face:

• icefall seracs overhang.

From the glacier:

• overcome the bergschrund;
• ascend a steep ice and snow slope (icefall, rockfall) to reach the rocks on the left side of the Lower Rock Belt of the North-West Face.

On the monolithic, moderately difficult and difficult rocks of the face:

• ascend 80–100 m to a small ledge;
• from the ledge, 60 m upwards on rocks of above-average difficulty (avalanches, rockfall) to a ridge;
• follow a poorly defined 60-meter steep rocky ridge to reach the Lower Rock Belt.

From here, 100–120 m upwards to the right on a steep ice and snow ridge-slope with rocky outcrops under the left side of the Middle Rock Belt. Along an inclined snowy rock ledge-slope, traverse 70–80 m upwards to the right to approach the base of a steep narrow couloir going upwards to the left.

N. Starostin's group approached the Lower Rock Belt via the Gumachi Glacier, to the right of the steep ice and snow Right Couloir of the North-West Face of Chegettau peak.

From the glacier, having overcome the bergschrund, ascend 100–120 m upwards to the left on a steep ice and snow slope along the rock belt wall (rockfall, avalanches, icefall) to the shoulder of the third rock island on the right side of the right ice and snow couloir.

From the shoulder, traverse 150–170 m upwards to the left, crossing the right ice and snow couloir (avalanches, icefall, rocks), and approach the rocks on the right side of the Middle Rock Belt of the North-West Face.

From here:

• 40–50 m upwards to the left on rocks of medium and above-average difficulty, to the left of a chimney,
• then follow severely damaged rocks to exit left onto a ledge.

From the ledge, on a steep ice and snow slope, approach the base of a steep narrow couloir going upwards to the left.

From here, on a snowy inclined ledge-slope, 80–100 m to the right under an inner corner. On rocks of above-average difficulty:

• 20–25 m upwards onto an ice and snow slope.
• On slabs and an ice and snow slope, upwards to the left onto a poorly defined ridge.

N. Starostin's group:

• ascended 30–40 m upwards to the left on a narrow couloir to a shoulder.
• from the shoulder, exit left onto a platform.
• from the platform, 70–80 m upwards on steep rocks of above-average difficulty and difficult rocks onto a poorly defined ridge.

Further ascent of 300–350 m on steep damaged rocks and ice and snow slopes of the poorly defined ridge of the North-West Face.