192. Tютю Main via the East Ridge (Category II route).

From the “Dzhailyk” alpine camp (a group of 4–12 people), cross the Kullumkol River via a temporary bridge and ascend along the trail on the left bank to the last large meadow below the terminal moraines of the glaciers in the gorge — the “lower paradise bivouac”. Here, turn left and follow the trail on the grassy slopes, then scree, continually bearing left, to reach the left side of the Zapadny Tютюsu Glacier. Traverse the Zapadny Glacier, staying on its left side (watch out for covered crevasses in the middle section!), to reach the col of the ridge connecting the peaks of the Tютю massif on the left and Dzhailyk on the right. From the “Dzhailyk” alpine camp — 3.5–4 hours. From the upper snow plateau of the Zapadny Tютюsu Glacier, ascend a steep snow slope to the Eastern shoulder of the Eastern ridge of Tютю Eastern peak. Here, turn left and follow a straightforward steep ascent with small rock walls and a 15-meter climb (using ice axe belay!) in the middle section of the Eastern ridge to reach the Eastern peak of the massif. From the Eastern peak, descend a snow slope to a col below the summit ascent. From the col, follow a straightforward gentle rocky ridge, bypassing small gendarmes on the left, to ascend to the Main Tютю peak. From the Zapadny Tютюsu Glacier — 3.5–4 hours. Descend via the ascent route.

Passport

1. Technical category
2. Central Caucasus, Tютю Су gorge
3. Mt. Тютю Glavnaya via North Ridge, 4460 m
4. Category 6B (approximate), route by I. Slesov, third ascent
5. Height difference — 1310 m, length — 1675 m. Average steepness of the upper wall section — 77°. Average steepness of the lower section — 65°. Length of sections with category 5 difficulty — 670 m. Length of sections with category 6 difficulty — 540 m.
6. Pitons driven: | Type | Quantity | | :--------- | :--------- |

REPORT

on the ascent to the summit Vostochnaya Ullu-tau-chana via the northern bastions of the shoulder Category 5B difficulty

2. History of the massif exploration.

The exploration of the Ullu-tau-chana massif began in 1933, when A. Dzaparidze and G. Niguriiani ascended to the Main peak from the Lekzyr glacier off the Mestia pass via a Category 3B route, and to the Western peak from the Garvash pass via a Category 2B route. Before the war, both complete traverses of the massif were made, Category 4B:

• 1937 — L. Nadezhdin and V. Nazarov — from west to east,
• 1938 — A. Zolotarev, F. Kropf, V. Mauer, and V. Nesterov — from east to west; and in 1946 — a first ascent via the "board" to the Western peak with a subsequent traverse of the massif to the east, Category 5A — D. Gudkov, M. Zvezdkin, M. Chertkov, G. Odnoblyudov.

St. Petersburg Climbing Championship 2021 (altitude-technical class) Report on the ascent to Tyutyu West peak (4233 m), via the S wall, I. Khatskevich, 1973, cat. 5A The route was climbed by the team of the Federation of Alpinism of St. Petersburg St. Petersburg 2021

Ascent Passport

1. Western Caucasus, from the Gumači peak to the Kitlod pass. Section No. 2.4.1 of the classifier of routes to mountain peaks.
2. Tyutyu West peak (4233 m), via the S wall, I. Khatskevich, 1973.
3. Route character – combined.

Tyutyu Seconda Western via the Western Ridge, combined, 2A

Route description:

From Shogentsukov's shoulder, descend to the glacier (closed crevices) and approach the saddle of Kullumkol pass, located under the southern slope of the Western ridge of Tyutyu Western. Here, turn right. Having passed the saddle, via simple, possibly icy scree, reach the Western ridge of Tyutyu Western summit. Turn right here and follow the gentle, wide, possibly snow-covered, easy rock 150-200-meter Western ridge to approach the 1st gendarme. Bypass the gendarme via the destroyed rocks on the right. Further along the gentle, местами со снежными карнизами, Western ridge, approach the 2nd gendarme, which is bypassed on the right via scree. Continue moving along the ridge, and directly along the route, there will be a small stony ascent to the Tyutyu-bashi 1st Zap summit. Here, turn left onto a snowfield and, traversing under the slope of Tyutyu Western, exit onto a steep slope with fine scree. Ascend to the Tyutyu-bashi 2nd Western summit via the loose scree turning into simple rocks. © Morozova Irina

Tyutyu 2nd Western (4420 m). Route via the Southern ridge (“through the lens”), category 3B. The Tyutyu peak is located in the northwestern branch of the Adyr spur of the Main Caucasian Range, between the Jailyk and Sullukol peaks. The first ascent was made by S. Goluvev via the Western ridge in 1914. Tyutyu is a mountain massif consisting of:

• Eastern (4400 m),
• Main (4460 m),
• Central (4430 m),
• 2nd Western (4420 m),
• Western (4350 m) peaks, located in the northwestern spur (Adyr ridge) of the Main Caucasian Range (Kabardino-Balkaria Republic), between the Adyr-Su and Tyutyu-Su rivers. The name translates from Balkarian as “barberry peak”.

New route "Ex­prom­ptus" on Tyu­tyu 2nd West­ern 4420 m via South-East wall — South ridge

First ascenders:

1. Foy­gel	Max­im	Rafailovich	— CMS,	Leipzig	(Ger­many)
+49	178	18		18	303
m.foygel@gmail.com

2. Be­lo­zer­skaya Yulia Niko­laev­na — 2nd sports cat­e­gory, Leipzig (Ger­many)

As­cent pass­port:

1. Cen­tral Cau­ca­sus, Adyr-su gorge (Ullutau), sec­tion 2.4.1 of the clas­si­fi­ca­tion of routes to moun­tain sum­mits
2. Tyu­tyu 2nd West­ern 4420 m, via South-East wall — South ridge, route "Ex­prom­ptus"

Central Council of Physical Culture and Sports

Report

on the ascent to v. Tyutyu-bashi 2nd West by S wall of S buttress — first ascent, 5A cat. difficulty, approximately, made on August 2–3, 1979 on the Central Caucasus, in the Adyr-su gorge by a group of climbers from "Dzhailyk" alpine camp in the following composition:

• SERGEY ANATOLYEVICH RYZHIKOV — Master of Sports of the USSR, senior instructor
• ANDREY EVGENYEVICH PETROV — 1st sports category. On August 2–3, 1979, a group of climbers from "Dzhailyk" alpine camp consisting of: Sergey Anatolyevich RYZHIKOV, Master of Sports of the USSR, senior instructor, and Andrey Evgenyevich PETROV, 1st sports category, made a first ascent of the route to the summit of Tyutyu-bashi 2nd West by the South wall of the southern buttress, approximately 5A category of difficulty. The southern buttress is located somewhat east of the southern edge, along which a 3B category route is laid to the same summit, and is separated from the edge by snowy slopes and a wide couloir. The buttress is separated from the walls of the 3rd Western Tyutyu-bashi — Central, by a huge couloir. The short snow-rock ridge of the buttress to the south ends in a wide almost vertical wall, cut almost in the middle by a weakly inclined crack from bottom to top, where it ends to the left (west) of a characteristic rock tower protrusion. The key section of our route follows mainly along this crack. Approach to the route. From the "Dzhailyk" alpine camp, follow the trail along the right bank of the Kulumkol-su river to the last large clearing under the terminal moraines of the glaciers of the gorge — "lower paradise camping".

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class: technical 2. Ascent region: Central Caucasus, Adyr-su gorge. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Tyutyu-bashi, 2nd Western, 4850, via the 10th wall of the 10th counterfort. 4. Proposed category: 5A 5. Route characteristics: height difference 700 m, length of sections with 5–6 category: 160 m, average steepness 60^{\circ}. 6. Number of pitons: rock pitons — 33, chocks — 9, loops with carabiner — 3, including for creating artificial anchors — 6; total 39. 7. Number of climbing hours: from "Jailyk" tourist camp to the route — 4–5, from the foot to the summit — 13. 8. Number of overnight stays: one, lying down. 9. Group composition:

V. Tyutyu 2nd Western route via the left part of the South face, South ridge, first ascent. Central Caucasus.

Passport

1. Technical class.
2. Central Caucasus, Kullumkol gorge.
3. V. Tyutyu 2nd West via the left part of the South face, South ridge, 4420 m.
4. Assumed 5B cat. diff., first ascent.
5. Height difference: 920 m, length — 1100 m.
   • Length of sections with 6A–6B cat. diff. — 99 m.