192. Tютю Main via the East Ridge (Category II route).

From the “Dzhailyk” alpine camp (a group of 4–12 people), cross the Kullumkol River via a temporary bridge and ascend along the trail on the left bank to the last large meadow below the terminal moraines of the glaciers in the gorge — the “lower paradise bivouac”.

Here, turn left and follow the trail on the grassy slopes, then scree, continually bearing left, to reach the left side of the Zapadny Tютюsu Glacier. Traverse the Zapadny Glacier, staying on its left side (watch out for covered crevasses in the middle section!), to reach the col of the ridge connecting the peaks of the Tютю massif on the left and Dzhailyk on the right. From the “Dzhailyk” alpine camp — 3.5–4 hours.

From the upper snow plateau of the Zapadny Tютюsu Glacier, ascend a steep snow slope to the Eastern shoulder of the Eastern ridge of Tютю Eastern peak.

Here, turn left and follow a straightforward steep ascent with small rock walls and a 15-meter climb (using ice axe belay!) in the middle section of the Eastern ridge to reach the Eastern peak of the massif.

From the Eastern peak, descend a snow slope to a col below the summit ascent. From the col, follow a straightforward gentle rocky ridge, bypassing small gendarmes on the left, to ascend to the Main Tютю peak. From the Zapadny Tютюsu Glacier — 3.5–4 hours.

Descend via the ascent route.