![img-0.jpeg]({"0": "width": 753, "height": 621, "format": "Jpeg", "uri": "https://summitx.info/media/1/XjFEEecR0szAcq3IJwcyHTu7LfdyF9j7/img-0.jpeg", "id": 64745172}) REPORT ![img-1.jpeg]({"0": "width": 1376, "height": 131, "format": "Jpeg", "uri": "https://summitx.info/media/1/0CM2EsSyu3RvBTLu8U5afLDlPPVJ90Dm/img-1.jpeg", "id": 64745173}) ON TRAVERSE OF PEAKS DALAR — DVOINYASHKA — ZAMOK

• ascent to Dalar via western wall
• to Dvoinyashka along the "edge"
• first ascent July — August 1968

Table of Contents

37

WESTERN DVONYASHKA

via the Western wall with an exit to the shoulder along the Northern wall July 19-26, 1965 www.alpfederation.ru

Introduction

I. Brief Geographical Description and Sporting Characteristics

The Dvoynyashka massif (3900 m) rises as a separate double-peaked tower in the chain of peaks along the Main Caucasian Range: Kirpich–Dallar–Dvoynyashka–Zamok. The northern slopes of the massif, which are steeply sloping walls with an average steepness of 70–80°, feed the large Kichkinokol glacier, from which the Uzunkol river originates. The southern slopes are also steep and more eroded.

Ascent Form

1. Ascent category: rock climbing
2. Ascent area: Nakhara spur of the Main Caucasian Range
3. Ascent route with indication of peaks, their heights, route complexity (etc., approximately): South wall of Dvuzubka peak, height 3400 m, 5B category of difficulty
4. Ascent characteristics: Route length 820 m, height difference 550–600 m, average steepness 75°, complex sections length 670 m
5. Pitons driven: rock 114, chocks — 47. Ice and bolt pitons.
6. Number of climbing hours 34 h
7. Number of climbing days 3
8. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics: two sitting bivouacs on comfortable ledges

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: rock climbing.
2. Ascent area: Caucasus from Nakhar Pass to Chipper-Azau Pass, spurs of the Main Caucasian Range.
3. Dvuzubka Peak 3600 m via the center of the southwest wall.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain: 780 m; average steepness: 71°; length of sections: II — 80 m, III — 170 m, IV — 290 m, V — 440 m (VБ — 320 m).
6. Number of pitons driven:

Dolomit Malyy via the West Face, rock, 3B

Route Description

Before reaching the tongue of the glacier below Dolomit Yuzhnyy Pass, cross the talus slopes to the walls of Dolomit Malyy. The landmark of the route on the wall is a huge couloir running from a large snow-talus cirque of the main ridge of the summit. To the right of the couloir, a wall goes upwards. Its lower part is composed of rocks resembling "sheep's foreheads." Below them are snowy slopes with rocky outcrops. The lower section of the rocks and slopes is largely uniform in appearance and character. Therefore, reaching the first large talus terrace running under the entire Dolomit Malyy wall is not straightforward. One of the wall's blocks is cut by a series of internal corners. Ascend to the R2 terrace via the second internal corner from the ridge within the pronounced black streaks, orienting towards the end of the Dolomit Malyy wall's edge running along the huge couloir from the upper cirque. Traverse along the second terrace to its middle part and exit through a short R5 wall to a short ridge. In its middle section, there is a 40 m traverse to the left across the rocks towards the R8 wall. From here, via a couloir with "live" rocks and a 40-meter R10 wall, then slightly below the buttress of the large couloir, bypassing a corniche on R11, ascend to the confluence of the two R12 couloirs (landmark - a rusty rock on the ridge of the buttress). The rock drops to the couloirs with a huge slab. At the end of the couloirs on a narrow ledge, there is a control cairn. From the ledge, left and upwards via a wide internal corner and ledges on the left side of the ridge, then along the edge of the destroyed rocks across the snowy-talus slopes of the cirque, ascend to the summit. From the lake - 7–10 hours depending on the route's condition.

Dolomit Severny from Dolomit Severny Pass, 2A

Route description:

From Chat bivouac, ascend via the right moraine and large talus slopes into the talus cirque between Chat-bashi Peak (left) and Dolomit Severny Peak (right). From here, take a straightforward snowy-talus slope to reach Dolomit Severny Pass. From the pass, traverse a 300-meter crumbling ridge to its sharp depression. From this point, descend leftwards to a ledge, then follow a chimney (R2) and a ridge composed of slabs to approach a large slab (R4) overhanging the ridge. Bypass it on the left via talus (loose rocks!). Continue via rocky terrain to a large "roof" slab lying edge-upwards, a key landmark. Bypass the "roof" on the left through a couloir and then ascend to the summit ascent via the ridge (beware of cornices early in the season!). From the ascent, descend via straightforward rocky terrain to a large talus saddle, then ascend the summit via a straightforward talus slope. The ascent takes approximately 5.5 hours from the bivouac. The descent from the summit follows the "Dоломит Северный по центру бастиона Западной стены" route, exiting onto Okhotnichy Pass. Then, descend via talus and snowy slopes to the bivouac in the Chat-bashi cirque (40 minutes from the pass).

Severny Dolomit Peak — 3700 m

Ascent via the southwest wall — category 3–6 difficulty (Description along the route to the summit) The path to the bivouac on Dolomit Lake — see the route description to Yuzhny Dolomit. From the bivouac, traverse scree to the base of the wall, in the direction of two black streaks of running water on the wall. Below them is an alluvial cone and above it, three caves. The ascent primarily follows the left streak. The lower part of the wall is very steep — so after the scree slope, move left onto ledges. The sequential transition from the 1st to the 2nd and then to the 3rd ledge is via internal rock corners (Protection!). The third ledge leads into a couloir with a black streak, along which the ascent continues. From the 3rd ledge, traverse the couloir and continue upwards — along the right side of the couloir. The rocks here are of the "sheep's back" type (Protection! Pitons!). In case of bad weather, a second ascent option is possible (After entering the couloir, ascend to its right ridge and follow it up to the end of the couloir. This path is technically more challenging). Along the rocks on the right side of the couloir, ascend to a 4-meter wall below a large black overhanging wall. Cross the wall (Pitons! Can be traversed with a boost) and then ascend 30 m via easy rocks to the ridge, traverse it, and then move right into the 2nd couloir. Traverse right-up through the couloir to ledges. Along the ledges, ascend to the 2nd stream (Protection!) and follow it up along rocks of the "sheep's back" type (Protection! Pitons!) to a wide scree ledge. From the base of the wall — 5 hours. Along the ledge, move left to the 1st stream. On the edge of the ledge — a control cairn.

2. Ascent to the summit of Severny Dolomit (3710 m) via the southwest face — Category 3B difficulty From the bivouac near Dolomit Lake, ascend via talus to the base of the face, in the direction of two black streaks of running water on the face. Below them lies an outwash cone, and above it, three caves. The ascent primarily follows the left streak. The lower part of the face is very steep, so after the talus outwash, move left onto a ledge. The alternating traverse from the first to the second and then to the third ledge is done via internal rock corners (Belay!). The third ledge leads into a couloir with a black streak, along which the ascent continues. From the third ledge, cross the couloir and continue upward along the right side of the couloir. The rocks here resemble "sheep's foreheads" (Belay! Pitons!). In case of bad weather, a second ascent option is possible. (After entering the couloir, ascend to its right ridge and continue up it to the end of the couloir. This path is technically more challenging). Ascend via the rocks on the right side of the couloir to a 4-meter wall below a large black overhanging wall. Cross the wall (Pitons! Can be climbed with a boost) and continue 30 m via easy rocks to the ridge, cross it, and then move right into the second couloir. Traverse right and upward through the couloir to the ledges. Ascend the ledges to the second stream (Belay!) and continue up along it via rocks resembling "sheep's foreheads" (Belay! Pitons!) to a wide talus ledge. From the base of the face — 5 hours.

46

Ascent Log

1. Ascent category — rock
2. Ascent region — West Caucasus — Uzunkol
3. Ascent route — Severny Dolomit 3710 m via the right part of the western wall, 4A category of complexity, first ascent.
4. Ascent description: route length — 930 m; wall height difference — 495 m; average wall steepness — 75°; length of complex wall sections — 295 m.

Report

on the ascent to the summit of Dolomit Severny via the right part of the western wall, category 4A by the team led by Popov V.I.

I. Climbing Passport