Severny Dolomit Peak — 3700 m

Ascent via the southwest wall — category 3–6 difficulty

(Description along the route to the summit)

The path to the bivouac on Dolomit Lake — see the route description to Yuzhny Dolomit.

From the bivouac, traverse scree to the base of the wall, in the direction of two black streaks of running water on the wall. Below them is an alluvial cone and above it, three caves. The ascent primarily follows the left streak. The lower part of the wall is very steep — so after the scree slope, move left onto ledges. The sequential transition from the 1st to the 2nd and then to the 3rd ledge is via internal rock corners (Protection!). The third ledge leads into a couloir with a black streak, along which the ascent continues. From the 3rd ledge, traverse the couloir and continue upwards — along the right side of the couloir. The rocks here are of the "sheep's back" type (Protection! Pitons!). In case of bad weather, a second ascent option is possible (After entering the couloir, ascend to its right ridge and follow it up to the end of the couloir. This path is technically more challenging).

Along the rocks on the right side of the couloir, ascend to a 4-meter wall below a large black overhanging wall. Cross the wall (Pitons! Can be traversed with a boost) and then ascend 30 m via easy rocks to the ridge, traverse it, and then move right into the 2nd couloir. Traverse right-up through the couloir to ledges. Along the ledges, ascend to the 2nd stream (Protection!) and follow it up along rocks of the "sheep's back" type (Protection! Pitons!) to a wide scree ledge. From the base of the wall — 5 hours.

Along the ledge, move left to the 1st stream. On the edge of the ledge — a control cairn.

Chimney of the first counterfort ascent (Section 1–2)

From the cairn upwards — follow the stream — 30 m and then left-up along inclined ledges to a rocky ridge (Protection! Pitons!). Initially along easy, and then broken rocks of the ridge, ascend to the main ridge of Severny Dolomit peak — right of the summit.

Along the easy ridge, reach the summit. From the large scree ledge to the summit — 3 hours.

Descend from the summit via a wide scree couloir, staying on its right side, to the narrows. From the narrows, traverse several ridges and small couloirs to the right, descend to a grassy-scree slope and follow it to the bivouac site by Dolomit Lake.

From the summit to the lake — 2 hours.

Number of participants in the group — 4–6 people.

Initial bivouac — on Dolomit Lake.

Equipment for a group of 4 people:

• ropes — 2 × 30 m
• expendable rope — 5 m
• rock pitons — 8–10 pcs. (including 2–3 blade pitons)
• hammers — 2 pcs.
• carabiners — 10 pcs.

Elevation gain — about 700 m. Ascent time — 8 hours. Descent time — 2 hours. Number of pitons used — 14 pcs. Group leader — Master of Sports of the USSR Kolchin A.A. Participants:

• senior instructor Stelmakh — 1st sports category;
• Ptashkin, Anisovich, Borovikov, Petrov — 2nd sports category.

Note: On repeated ascents, the time for the route has been confirmed; the number of pitons used has decreased to 9–10 pcs. The average number for all subsequent groups will be 6–8 pcs.