- Ascent to the summit of Severny Dolomit (3710 m) via the southwest face — Category 3B difficulty
From the bivouac near Dolomit Lake, ascend via talus to the base of the face, in the direction of two black streaks of running water on the face. Below them lies an outwash cone, and above it, three caves. The ascent primarily follows the left streak. The lower part of the face is very steep, so after the talus outwash, move left onto a ledge. The alternating traverse from the first to the second and then to the third ledge is done via internal rock corners (Belay!). The third ledge leads into a couloir with a black streak, along which the ascent continues. From the third ledge, cross the couloir and continue upward along the right side of the couloir. The rocks here resemble "sheep's foreheads" (Belay! Pitons!). In case of bad weather, a second ascent option is possible. (After entering the couloir, ascend to its right ridge and continue up it to the end of the couloir. This path is technically more challenging).
Ascend via the rocks on the right side of the couloir to a 4-meter wall below a large black overhanging wall. Cross the wall (Pitons! Can be climbed with a boost) and continue 30 m via easy rocks to the ridge, cross it, and then move right into the second couloir. Traverse right and upward through the couloir to the ledges. Ascend the ledges to the second stream (Belay!) and continue up along it via rocks resembling "sheep's foreheads" (Belay! Pitons!) to a wide talus ledge. From the base of the face — 5 hours.
Along the ledge, move left to the first stream. At the edge of the ledge lies a cairn. From the cairn, ascend 30 m along the stream and then left and upward via inclined ledges to a rocky ridge (Belay! Pitons!). Initially, ascend via easy and then via broken rocks of the ridge to the main ridge of Severny Dolomit summit — to the right of the summit. Continue along the straightforward ridge to the summit. From the large talus ledge to the summit — 3 hours.
Descend from the summit via a wide talus couloir, staying on its right side, to the narrows. From the narrows, crossing several ridges and small couloirs from the right, descend to a grassy-talus slope and continue down to the bivouac site at Dolomit Lake. From the summit to the lake — 1.5 hours.
Recommendations for Climbers
- Number of participants in the group — 4–6 people.
- Initial bivouac — at Dolomit Lake.
- Departure time from the bivouac — 5:00.
- Special equipment for a group of 4 people: a) main rope — 2 × 40 m; b) expendable rope — 5 m; c) rock pitons — 6–8 (at least 2–3 blades); d) rock hammers — 2; e) carabiners — 8.
Multiple passages of this route by sports groups in the 1964 season revealed an underestimation of the difficulty initially given by A. Veidman's group in 1963. This route is analogous to the route on Yuzhny Dolomit, Category 3B, via the western face, both in terms of difficulty and the amount of technical work.
