46

Ascent Log

1. Ascent category — rock
2. Ascent region — West Caucasus — Uzunkol
3. Ascent route — Severny Dolomit 3710 m via the right part of the western wall, 4A category of complexity, first ascent.
4. Ascent description: route length — 930 m; wall height difference — 495 m; average wall steepness — 75°; length of complex wall sections — 295 m.
5. Pitons used: rock pitons — 31; Number of used chocks — 15.
6. Duration of ascent — 16 hours.
7. Number of ascent days — 2.
8. Number and description of bivouacs — no bivouacs on the route. Possible bivouac locations: on a large ledge — for a tent and on a small ledge under an internal corner — sitting.
9. Team name — alplager 'Uzunkol'.
10. Full names of team leader, participants, and their qualification: Kuznetsov N.N. — 1st sports category; Rybakov M.I. — 1st sports category.
11. Team coach — Master of Sports Zakharov P.P.
12. Departure and return dates — July 21–22, 1979.

Route Description

The route to the summit of Severny Dolomit via the right part of the southwest wall (approximately 4A category of complexity).

The route starts: — to the right of the large yellow wall of Severny Dolomit peak at the base of the stream; — The large yellow wall is located to the right of the 3B category route on Severny Dolomit peak; — From the bivouac on Dolomit lake to the start of the route — 20 minutes walk.

To the left of the stream, across slabby rocks 40 m towards the base of the ascent leading to the top of the yellow wall (sect. R0–R1).

Then, three rope lengths, following the base of this ascent, always left of the stream: — Belay with pitons. — Exit to a large scree ledge crossing the Severny Dolomit massif. — Caution: many loose rocks! (sect. R1–R2).

Along the ledge to the left 30 m — to a saddle between the upper ascent of the yellow wall and the base of a not very pronounced buttress, which turns into a distinct ridge towards the Severny Dolomit summit.

From the base of the buttress upwards 40 m — to a vertical yellow narrow chimney on grey rocks with lichens. Climbing is difficult, few cracks. On a small ledge by the chimney — the first control cairn! Two people can gather on the ledge (sect. R2–R3).

Up the chimney vertically 15 m — to a jammed blockage of stones, exit to the right wall of the chimney (steep, overhanging rocks with lichens) and left upwards through the blockage 4–5 m — to a platform directly on the buttress (sect. R3–R4). Climbing is very difficult, first without a backpack, ladders may be used.

From the platform left upwards along a slightly overhanging wall 4–5 m and then up the wall left of the buttress ridge 40 m. Belay with pitons, climbing in the lower part is very difficult (sect. R4–R5).

Then: — 20 m up a system of steep little walls with ledges to the base of a 5-meter yellow internal corner. — Live blocks in the corner! — Bypassing the corner on the left wall with a slight overhang and exit to a large "room ledge" (sect. R5–R6).

Along the ledge left 30 m to the base of a yellow crack with a cleft: — Up the crack 20 m and then along the wall to a small platform on the ridge (sect. R6–R7).

On the platform, a control cairn! Belay with pitons.

Then up an internal corner 25 m with piton belay to a ledge. Many loose rocks on the ledge! (sect. R7–R8).

Right up the ledge to a less steep part of the wall 15–20 m (sect. R8–R9): — up slabby rocks 25 m; — to an internal corner with live blocks; — bypassing the corner on the right along grey rocks with a cleft 15 m — exit to a slab (sect. R9–R10). Belay with pitons.

Left up the slab 20 m — exit to the ridge (sect. R10–R11).

Along the narrow ridge with belay via outcrops: — bypassing a gendarme on the left along a ledge; — then 20 m along the ridge to a small dip (sect. R11–R12).

Descent into the dip by climbing.

From the dip, the ridge, which is a system of small gendarmes, is bypassed on the left along scree ledges until it reaches the main ridge of the Severny Dolomit massif and along it left to the summit (sect. R12–R13).

Recommendations for groups undertaking the route:

In case of group delay on the route, possible bivouac locations: — on a large scree ledge; — on a "room ledge" in the middle part of the upper bastion.

Team Formation and Preparation

Instructors from alplager 'Uzunkol' had been eyeing the Severny Dolomit peak to establish a new route via the southwest wall. It was known that in 1975, a team of American climbers ascended this wall and rated the route as 5B category. However, this ascent remained just a fact registered in the history of ascents at alplager 'Uzunkol'. Unfortunately, the American climbers left no materials about their ascent — no croquis, no description, no photographs. Instructors from alplager 'Uzunkol', Kuznetsov N.N. and Rybakov M.I., working in the camp for the third consecutive year, decided to tackle this wall on the advice of the head of the training department, Zakharov P.P.

The preparation of the ascent participants took place: — in Leningrad during joint training sessions (both instructors work in the same section); — at rock climbing competitions for the Leningrad championship; — in alplager 'Uzunkol' during the 2nd shift of work.

Team's Work in the Mountains and Tactical Ascent Plan

The team consisting of:

1. Kuznetsov N.N.
2. Rybakov M.I.

arrived to work at alplager 'Uzunkol' on June 30, 1979. The duo had previous experience climbing together, but for final preparation for the first ascent, they planned joint ascents on routes of 4th and 5B categories. The duo successfully completed these ascents.

The ascent was planned to take place during the changeover between the 2nd and 3rd shifts of the alplager's work. Based on preliminary reconnaissance and observations, a tactical plan for the ascent was drawn up. When creating the tactical plan, it was taken into account that American climbers, who ascended somewhere on this wall (albeit in bad weather), rated the route as 5B category; additionally, observations suggested that the upper section of the route, after the large scree ledge, was considered the most challenging. With this in mind, it was planned: in case of a late arrival at the large scree ledge, to organize a bivouac there and, after detailed examination and choosing a path through the upper part of the wall, to process it from the bivouac.

Thus, the tactical plan assumed:

1. To make an approach to the route on July 21, 1979, and process the lower part.
2. On July 22, 1979, to ascend the processed part of the route, reach the planned bivouac on the large scree ledge, and process the lower part of the upper bastion.
3. On July 23, to ascend the processed part of the upper bastion and, upon reaching the summit, descend to the base camp.

During the ascent, the tactical plan underwent changes since the duo arrived at the large scree ledge relatively early, quickly found a path through the upper bastion, and successfully completed the ascent to the summit on the same day.

Excellent physical preparation, the right choice of equipment using new types — "chocks," sufficient mountaineering experience, plus perfect weather conditions allowed the duo to quickly and safely complete the planned route.

Ascent Diary and Brief Route Description

On July 21, 1979, at 12:00, a duo of instructors consisting of: — Kuznetsov N.N. — 1st sports category; — Rybakov M.I. — 1st sports category;

and camp observers: — Popova Z.V. — 2nd category; — Kuznetsova I.M. — 3rd category;

departed from alplager 'Uzunkol' with the task of establishing a storm camp on Dolomit lake, conducting final observations of the route, and processing the lower part. At 15:30, the group arrived at the storm camp location, and the duo, Kuznetsov N.N. and Rybakov M.I., took two ropes and necessary equipment and proceeded to the start of the route.

From the bivouac on Dolomit lake to the start of the route, it takes 20 minutes to walk. The "0" point of the route is located on scree under the base of the right part of the yellow wall, left of the stream. From the scree (sect. R0–R1), movement begins left of the stream across slabby rocks, following the base of the ascent leading to the top of the yellow wall.

Start of the route: — First rope length: climbing 3rd category, belay with pitons. — Second rope length: turned out to be more complex — the steepness of the route increased, and it was necessary to move very cautiously due to many loose rocks on the route.

After completing two rope lengths, having driven in 8 rock pitons and examining the further path, the duo descended down the hung ropes and returned to the bivouac.

On July 22, 1979, the duo departed from the storm camp at 4:30, taking with them a 'Zarka' type tent, a fueled 'Shmel' primus stove, necessary equipment, and provisions. All public and personal gear was packed into one backpack to ensure the first climber in the rope could ascend without a backpack. This proved justified as the route presented sections where it was impossible to climb with a backpack.

Having ascended the processed part of the route via fixed ropes, the duo continued. The nature of the route remained unchanged (sect. R1–R2): slabby rocks intersected by ledges, loose rocks, few places for piton placement, "chocks" were used.

Starting from the third rope length, a cleft served as a landmark, along which the route proceeded.

By 7:30, having completed three rope lengths, the duo reached a large scree ledge under the base of the upper bastion. After a short rest and observing the upper part of the route, they decided to continue from the saddle between the upper ascent of the yellow wall and the base of a not very pronounced steep buttress, which turned into a distinct ridge towards the Severny Dolomit summit.

Features of the section's passage: — From the exit point to the large scree ledge to the saddle left upwards — 30 m. — Then from the base of the buttress upwards — 40 m (sect. R2–R3) across grey rocks with lichens to a vertical yellow narrow chimney. — Climbing is difficult, few cracks. — At the base of the chimney — a small ledge; on it, they built a control cairn. Two people can gather on the ledge. — Up the chimney vertically — 15 m to a jammed blockage of stones. — Exit to the right wall of the chimney (steep, smooth rocks with lichen) and left upwards through the blockage — 4–5 m to a platform directly on the buttress (sect. R3–R4). — Climbing is very difficult, first without a backpack, use of ladders, belay with pitons.

From the platform left upwards along a slightly overhanging wall 4–5 m and then up the wall left of the buttress ridge 40 m (sect. R4–R5). Climbing in the lower part is very difficult, then — difficult, belay with pitons.

Then 20 m up a system of steep little walls with ledges to the base of a 5-meter yellow internal corner. Live rocks in the corner! Bypassing the corner on the left wall 5 m with a slight overhang and exit to a large ledge — "room" (sect. R5–R6).

Along the ledge left 30 m to the base of a yellow crack with a cleft. Up the crack 20 m and then along the wall to a small platform on the ridge (sect. R6–R7). On the platform, they built a control cairn! Climbing on this section is difficult, belay with pitons.

Then up an internal corner 25 m with piton belay to a large ledge. Climbing is difficult. Many loose rocks on the ledge (sect. R7–R8).

Right up the ledge to a less steep part of the wall 15–20 m (sect. R8–R9).

Up slabby rocks 25 m to an internal corner with live blocks and, bypassing the corner on the right, along grey rocks with a cleft 15 m — exit to a slab (sect. R9–R10). Climbing is difficult, belay with pitons.

Left up the slab 20 m — exit to the ridge (sect. R10–R11). Along the narrow ridge with belay via outcrops: bypassing a gendarme on the left along a ledge and then 20 m along the ridge to a dip. Descent into the dip by climbing.

From the dip, the ridge, representing a system of small gendarmes consisting of separate blocks, is bypassed on the left along scree ledges until it reaches the main ridge of the Severny Dolomit massif and along it left to the summit.

The duo reached the summit at 16:30.

405 m: R11–R12 — 20 m, R10–R11 — 20 m, R9–R10 — 40 m, R8–R9 — 20 m, R7–R8 — 25 m, R6–R7 — 30 m, R5–R6 — 25 m, R4–R5 — 45 m, R3–R4 — 20 m, R2–R3 — 70 m, R1–R2 — 120 m, R0–R1 — 80 m.