Dolomit Malyy via the West Face, rock, 3B

Route Description

Before reaching the tongue of the glacier below Dolomit Yuzhnyy Pass, cross the talus slopes to the walls of Dolomit Malyy. The landmark of the route on the wall is a huge couloir running from a large snow-talus cirque of the main ridge of the summit. To the right of the couloir, a wall goes upwards. Its lower part is composed of rocks resembling "sheep's foreheads." Below them are snowy slopes with rocky outcrops. The lower section of the rocks and slopes is largely uniform in appearance and character. Therefore, reaching the first large talus terrace running under the entire Dolomit Malyy wall is not straightforward. One of the wall's blocks is cut by a series of internal corners. Ascend to the R2 terrace via the second internal corner from the ridge within the pronounced black streaks, orienting towards the end of the Dolomit Malyy wall's edge running along the huge couloir from the upper cirque.

Traverse along the second terrace to its middle part and exit through a short R5 wall to a short ridge. In its middle section, there is a 40 m traverse to the left across the rocks towards the R8 wall. From here, via a couloir with "live" rocks and a 40-meter R10 wall, then slightly below the buttress of the large couloir, bypassing a corniche on R11, ascend to the confluence of the two R12 couloirs (landmark - a rusty rock on the ridge of the buttress). The rock drops to the couloirs with a huge slab. At the end of the couloirs on a narrow ledge, there is a control cairn.

From the ledge, left and upwards via a wide internal corner and ledges on the left side of the ridge, then along the edge of the destroyed rocks across the snowy-talus slopes of the cirque, ascend to the summit. From the lake - 7–10 hours depending on the route's condition.

Descend from the summit to the right via a short wall into a talus couloir on the ridge heading towards Dolomit Yuzhnyy summit. Exit the couloir not reaching 60 m to a small transverse ridge, and, bypassing the walls to the right via a pronounced ledge, ascend to the saddle. Overcoming a small gendarme along the snow-rock boundary, via simple rocks, reach the Dolomit Yuzhnyy summit. From Dolomit Malyy - 1 hour.

• In bad weather, it is challenging to navigate at the beginning of the route;
• From the second terrace upwards, there are attractive internal corners to climb - do not enter them! - they lead to sheer drops and cornices;
• A possible forced return point can be considered at the R7–R8 section.

Information from the Route Diagram

• To Dolomit Glavnyy
• Dolomit Malyy to Dolomit Yuzhnyy
• R12: Snow-talus cirque, 350 m, 2
• R0: 20 m, 40°
• Bypass of the wall, 40 m, 55°, 3+
• R11: 40 m, 40°, 3+
• R10 Pitch, 2, Traverse through the ridge
• V-shaped streak (landmark)
• R4: Traverse, 40 m, 2
• R3: 40 m, 70°, 3+
• R1: 40 m, 45°, 3-
• Black streaks on the wall - landmark
• R0: 40 m, 45°
• 85
• 5 m, 70°, 4
• R7: 30 m, 50°, 3
• R5: 40 m, 50°, 3+
• 2nd terrace
• R2: 20 m, traverse
• 1st terrace