SummitMate
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Route Description: СВ стене
### Ascent Route to Ishpro Peak (Rose of the Winds) in Pakhdara Range, Category 5A Complexity Description of the ascent route to Ishpro peak, detailing the challenging 5A category climb in the Pakhdara Range.
1. Group Composition
- Yeremenko G. N. — 1st sports category, Kharkov (leader)
- Slobodyanik L. I. — 2nd sports category, Kharkov
- Grigorenko — Prigoda D. I. — Master of Sports, Kharkov
2. Object Characteristics
The Ishpro peak is located in one of the western spurs of the Shakhdarin ridge. The peak and the chosen route are visible when approaching the Andorob village (see Photo 1). It is clearly visible when ascending the slopes above the Garm-Chashma village. The peak is well-known to local residents as its glacial-snow cover supplies the irrigation canal system (aryks) around Garm-Chashma with water. All slopes on the left (orographic) bank of the Garm-Chashma River are crisscrossed by a network of aryks, which are convenient to use as trails when approaching Ishpro peak.
Translated, Ishpro means "peak that blocks the wind." We named it "Compass Rose."
Photo 1. View of Ishpro peak from Andorob village.
Map-Scheme
Route Description: Ю гребню
Description of a category 3B route to the summit of Kiik-Bal-Khana (5100 m) via the South Ridge in the Ishkashim Range, South-West Pamir.
ASCENT REPORT
I. Technical Class. 2. South-West Pamir, Ishkashimsky ridge. 3. Peak Kiik-Bal-Khana, height 5100 m, combined route, via South ridge. 4. Proposed complexity category — 3B. pr. 560, p. 3 18/3–86 5. Height difference 500 m, average steepness 40°. 6. Rock pitons driven 10/0, chocks 4/0, no ice or bolt pitons. 7. Climbing hours — 8. 8. No overnight stays. 9. Leader: Ponomarev D.S., 1st sports category
Route Description: Ю гребню
Climbing Mount Everest via the South Col: a description of the challenging route, key stages, and necessary skills for a successful ascent.
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Route Description: ЮЗ стене
Report on the first ascent of the southwestern wall of the western bastion of the 5100 m peak "Kiik-bal-khana" by the team from Kharkov regional council of the sports society "Avangard" in 1973.
4.6.9
Protocol No.380 dated 2.17.1972. Classified 5A. First ascent.
South-West Pamir
upper reaches of the Garms-Chashma river, peak 5100 m “Kiik-bal-khana”
Report
- on the first ascent of the South-West wall 5B cat. difficulty by the team of Kharkov regional council of the sports society “Avangard” June 14, 1973 Grushko Yu.I. Candidate Master of Sports
Route Description: ЮЗ стене
A description of the ascent route to the summit, including technical information and photos taken during the climb.
L. E. IONO
Route Description: траверс
Traverse of Kiik-Bal-Khana and Bezimyanaya peaks in the Ishkashim Range of South-West Pamir, category 2B, combined ridge route.
- Class of traverses
- South-West Pamir, Ishkashimsky Ridge
- Traverse of p. Kiik-Bal-Khana (5100 m) – p. Bezymanaya (5170 m) with ascent to p. Kiik-Bal-Khana via the western ridge, combined ridge route.
- Proposed - category 2B difficulty
- Height difference — from the start of the route to p. Kiik-Bal-Khana — 550 m, from p. Bezymanaya to the end of the descent — 800 m, length of traverse between the peaks — 1100 m, length of sections with category 4 difficulty — 200 m.
- Pitons hammered: Rock 20 — Chocks 40 —
- Number of travel hours — 13.
- Without overnight stays
- Ascent made by a pair:
Route Description: СЗ стене
Report on the ascent made by the team of the Sverdlovsk Regional Committee for Physical Education and Sports to Peak Mayakovsky (6096 m) via the northwest wall in 1973.
Team Report
Sverdlovsk Regional Committee for Physical Culture and Sports on the Ascent of Peak Mayakovsky via the NW Wall
Class — High-altitude Technical
| Coach | Mikhailov | A. A. | MS |
|---|---|---|---|
| Captain | Efimov | S. B. | MS |
| Participants | Muravyov | E. A. | MS |
| Pushkarev | V. M. | CMS | |
| Vinogradsky | E. M. | CMS | |
| Piratinsky | A. E. | CMS |
Route Description: 3 стене
First ascent of Peak 5215 m (Soviet Badakhshan) by the West Face, Pamir, 1975, route description.
Report
On the First Ascent to Peak 5215 m (Soviet Badakhshan Peak) via the West Face in the Southwestern Pamir by the team from the Kharkov Regional Sport Committee:
- BERSHOV S.I. — Master of Sports of the USSR
- BAKHTIGOZIN V.A. — Master of Sports of the USSR
- GRIGORENKO-PRIGODA Yu.I. — Master of Sports of the USSR
- TKACHENKO V.S. — Master of Sports of the USSR July 28 — August 7, 1975 KHARKOV
Route Description: 3 стене
Technical ascent of the team from Kharkov Regional Committee of Physical Culture and Sports to the peak Soviet Badakhshan (5215 m) via the Western spur in the Pamirs.
- Climb category — technical
- Climbing region — Pamir, Pgo — Western
- Climbing route with indication of the peak and height: p. 5215 m (peak Sovetsky Badakhshan) via Western spur
- Characteristics of the ascent: height difference — 1215 m, average steepness — 80°, length of complex section — 850 m
- Number of pitons hammered: rock — 279, ice — 11, bolt — 3
- Number of walking hours — 9 h
- Number of overnight stays — 8 including lying in tent — 5, in hammocks — 3
Route Description: В ребру
Report on the ascent of the Kharkov regional council team of the "Avangard" sports society to Peak 5100 m (Builder) via the East Ridge in the Pamir Mountains in 1975.
ASCENT DOCUMENT
I. ASCENT CATEGORY — technical. 2. ASCENT REGION — South-West Pamir. 3. ASCENT ROUTE — Peak 5100 m (STROITEL) via the Eastern ridge — Cat. 2B (approx.) pr413 dated 27/4-76.20saibog. 4. ASCENT DESCRIPTION: elevation gain — 1600 m, average slope — 45°, length of difficult sections — ~60 m 5. PITS INSERTED: rock — 7. ice — 6. MOVING TIME: 7 h. 7. NUMBER OF NIGHTS ON THE ROUTE: none.